Brakes stopped working. Found metal rod which attaches to braking device, disconnected. The rod has a hole in it (cotter pin?w/ washer?) Something must have fallen off, I don't know what. Can you help? Can't seem to find a manual on line?
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Re: Brakes on Wizard riding mower
Get some stainless cotter pins at an equipment and feed store and see if it works with that or other linkage set up. Get some rubber-jawed locking pliers and poly rope in there to help you figure things out.
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Step 1 - Locate the Brake Booster
The brake booster is located adjacent to the master cylinder. There will be 4 mounting screws protruding through the booster. The booster is also attached to the brake pedal in the interior of the car. This is where you will start work in replacing the brake booster.
Step 2 - Remove the Brake Booster
Start by locating the booster rod that goes through the firewall and is attached to the brake pedal on the interior of the car. Typically, there is a cotter pin that secures the rod to the pedal, but there may also be nuts. When removing any fasteners in the course of this job, make sure to retain the nuts, cotter pins, and various other fasteners as the new brake booster will not come with replacement fasteners.
Remove the fasteners, whether it is a cotter pin or nuts. Slide the rod off the brake pedal. Disconnect the vacuum brake line that connects to the booster. In the engine compartment, there are four bolts securing the booster to the master cylinder and firewall. Loosen and remove these nuts. Remove the nuts (there are usually 2 in addition to the 4 that have already been removed) that secure the brake booster to the master cylinder. Wiggle the brake booster away from the master cylinder. There is a seal between the two. You will need to keep this as the new part does not generally come with another one. Remove the brake booster.
Step 3 - Install the New Brake Booster
Set the new brake booster on the four mounting screws. Tighten the nuts on the bolts to the master cylinder. Insert the push rod through the firewall. Start these by hand so that the threads are not ruined. Reattach the vacuum hose, then the nuts to the 4 mounting screws. Reattach the push rod to the brake pedal by whatever means it was originally secured with, whether by cotter pin or by bolts.
Step 4 - Bleed the Brakes
You will need to bleed the brakes after replacing the brake booster
If you are saying this just happened all at once..sounds like your brake connectors either disconnected or broke..find the end if the brake pedal by what you said it is spring returned..there should be a rod connected to it via bolt or pin and cotter key and heading back toward the rear wheels..if it is connected follow the rod back to its end..it should be connected to brake rigging and shoes ..most have adjustments..good luck..
If your blades won't engage when you raise the lever to engage them AND
that lever moves freely without the normally expected resistance, then
you've lost the cotter pin that connects the lever rod to the mower deck
assembly. Very easy fix! Using the mower deck raise/lower lever, lower
the mower deck to "down" position. Now, lay on your side along the right
side of the mower and look up (use a flashlight) under the mower at the
top of the mower deck while moving the blade engagement lever "up"
(which pushes the connected rod down). At the end of the rod, you will
see a hole where the mower deck and rod connect. Align the hole at the
end of the rod with the matching "pin" on the mower deck (you'll see it)
and insert a new cotter pin to secure them together. Use a nail if you
don't have a cotter pin. Voila! you are done. The blade engagement lever
will now engage/disengage your mower blades successfully. Just remember
that mower deck must be down, or lowered, before you engage the blades!
The two are seperate issues. The switch on the brake pedal is on the frame and is accuated by the pedal, not the rod or spring. If you are not confident with a voltmeter or test light, then the Sears tech will be the fastest thing to mowing again.
Seems that your clutch needs adjustment, no biggie here. Get your needle nose pliers and a spare ¼ inch bolt or pin. A small Philips screwdriver will also work. The needle nose pliers are for removing the cotter pin and the screwdriver (or bolt) will hold the brake lever in place while you make the adjustment. Then, check under the right side of the deck (side where the grass discharges) right under the plastic mat where your foot rests and next to the tractor's frame you will see the brake lever with the long spring attached. Have a helper move the brake/clutch pedal so you have a better idea of what's going on down there. Then:
1. Remove the cotter pin, washer, and brake spring from the adjustable nut
2. Disconnect the adjustable nut from the brake lever assembly
and the parking brake latch.
3. Align the hole in the brake lever with the hole in the frame. Hold
the brake lever in place with your 1/4 inch pin, bolt or the screwdriver.
4. Pull the clutch rod forward until tight. Turn the adjustable nut
until the nut will fit through the hole in the brake lever.
5. Assemble the adjustable nut to the parking brake latch, brake lever and brake spring. Fasten with the washer and cotter pin.
6. Remove the 1/4 inch (6 mm) pin, bolt or scredriver.
That should return everything to normal. Assuming that there are no broken or bent parts in your clutch mechanism.
I hope you find this solution helpful. Please rate it and thanks for using Fixya. Good luck!
look at the rear of tractor There should be a rod sticking out of rear with an indicator showing a cotter pin. you pull rod so cotter pin comes through hole and rotate so that it is held outside of body. Gears should be free
check the manual and see if you got the belt config if that not right the tention will not be right also make sure you got the right belt, tention is very important in getting it to stop i hope that helps (compaqsiget over and out)