Question about Campbell Hausfeld 8GAL Air Compressor

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I have a HL410100rb that worked great. Now, when pressure reaches about 75, air comes out of the unloader valve. When I turn it off, air stops leaking. CH customer service told me it must be the check valve. I replaced the check valve, but the problem continues. What next?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Tank pressure reaches setting but outlet pressure is not releasing air

if you have a air nozzle I would plug that in and see if you can get air out of that if no then you may have to adjust the hose/line pressure or you may have something inside that isn't allowing the air to come out of the tank in that case drain the tank and use either a small rod or peice of wire to poke through the outlet and clear it

Posted on Oct 02, 2008

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  • 84 Answers

SOURCE: unloader valve keeps opening and closing

Sounds like the cutoff valve is failing to cut power off to the compressor drive motor, while it activates the unloader.--- I'd consider looking closely at the contacts, or replacing the cutoff.

Posted on Nov 24, 2009

  • 885 Answers

SOURCE: The unloader valve on the WL504100AJ leaks air

If you are leaking air at the unloader valve, even after the pump shuts off, your problem is the check valve. It's on the tank at the other end of the unloader tube, where the tube from the pump goes into the tank. I can't find a Campbell Hausfeld model #WL504100AJ so I can't tell you which check valve you need. The closest model numbers to yours are WL504311 and WL504312, and both of these use check valve #CV308300AJ.

Posted on Jan 03, 2011

mrhappyface
  • 205 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Craftsman compressor

you must have wired the new pressure switch incorrectly .when the pressure switch opens it will release the head pressure so your compressor must be running with the pressure switch contacts open should be 4 connections 2 marked motor which is from your compressor and 2 marked line which is your power coming in

Posted on Jun 15, 2011

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have a vt631401aj campbell

John: I had a similar problem with a brand new CH-made compressor. The problem was not with the unloader valve, but with the check valve located where the air from the pump enters the tank. The check valve was not seating correctly due to brass filings from manufacture. The defective check valve was allowing air to escape back the wrong way from the tank to the pressure switch and through the unloader valve. This backflow from the tank would start to happen when the pump stopped after reaching high pressure. The back flow would continue until the pump restarted at the low pressure point. This cycling would continue as you described. Once I cleaned the check valve, everything (including the unloader valve) started working correctly. I hope this helps. And remember, don't work on these when they are under pressure and always wear safety glasses.

Posted on Sep 22, 2011

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1 Answer

Why the heck is my compressor turning on and off, and on and off, and on and off?! I got your 1st response but this occurs with 0 pressure on initial start


Without any information before to know suggest if its a Balma HP3 compressor or Ironside then there is a small chance the excitation winding of the motor is damaged only if thereis no air sound and it stops and goes automatic on and off ,AND important it should also becomes very hot you can smell a burning hot air. , also a faltering contact of the pressure switch is posible 0 pressure it should normally turns around until it is blowing off and don,t stop blowing and stopped only when the pressure is reached then the check valve is dirty or there are some little peaces oxyd or metal membrane Pictures that are broken and are sitting in the check valverubber remove it , so it not good closed so that it continu blow all the air out if pressure is reaching about 8 or 10 bar tank pressure then when that if that high pressure could be reached you have a twin cilinder then it will also stop but blow all the air out . if the pressure switch is continues to blow out through also there is no pressure then the pressure unloader exhaust with the little hose coming from the checkvalve to the pressure switch this black plastic hose of the pressure switch leads to the pressure unloader and that unloader is dirty or defect, but before replace try to clean with solvent or with a little of wd40 try to clean or replace, but thinking of the little shaft of the pressure unloader not to lose it by disconnecting of the pressure unloader sometimes there are models CONDOR that has a shaft NEMA pressure switch has it not . I think the solution should be in the examples.
Here is the check valve insite this can be a problem it must normal be very clean nothing of metal or oxyd parts should be inside its a valve that must be clean. the little screw-thread comes connected to a hose most times thy are black or blue and goes to the pressure unloader . the left great size screw-thread goes to the tank and the middle connected screw thread goes to the cilinder pressure line.

down here the

Check valve
25894274-3mzf1trawgsl4mm3cy2ci1ac-5-0.jpg A pressure unloader (model with a shaft be careful not to loose )

25894274-3mzf1trawgsl4mm3cy2ci1ac-5-1.jpg
Safety valve





25894274-3mzf1trawgsl4mm3cy2ci1ac-5-9.jpg Only when the membrane has a hairline fracture the mechanic will not and it shall not be able to stop the pressure switch and should overload the tankpressure and when it has over-pressure it should automatic released. replace the pressure switch if there is no motion between 6 and 8 bar counter clockwise you can try release pressure if someone has clockwise twisted disrupted because of a problem the pressure adjustment, then it should going be working if there was no motion if you hear the noise constant of air release replace the pressure switch. check all fittings for leaks
beforehand ...

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1 Answer

Air compressor not unloading


Check the pressure switch. The unloader valve is actually in the pressure switch where the small air line from the tank check valve attaches to it. When the pressure switch turns the motor off it then lets the head pressure bleed off so the motor can restart the next time pressure drops in the tank. If it's not working and bleeding off the head pressure the cold start valve (the one with the pin in it) also won't open so the motor can restart and warn up properly.

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I have a vt631401aj campbell hausfeld compressor. when it builds pressure to 135 psi, the compressor shuts down and immediatly starts dumping air until it goes down to 90 psi. It then stops dumping the...


John: I had a similar problem with a brand new CH-made compressor. The problem was not with the unloader valve, but with the check valve located where the air from the pump enters the tank. The check valve was not seating correctly due to brass filings from manufacture. The defective check valve was allowing air to escape back the wrong way from the tank to the pressure switch and through the unloader valve. This backflow from the tank would start to happen when the pump stopped after reaching high pressure. The back flow would continue until the pump restarted at the low pressure point. This cycling would continue as you described. Once I cleaned the check valve, everything (including the unloader valve) started working correctly. I hope this helps. And remember, don't work on these when they are under pressure and always wear safety glasses.

Sep 18, 2011 | Campbell Hausfeld Air Tools & Compressors

1 Answer

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There should be a valve on the switch or on the compressor pump itself that opens when the motor stops and relieves the pressure between the tank and compressor, it's call the unloader valve. If this isn't opening the motor will draw much more amperage than it should to start the compressor and it may not even be able to start it at all.

When the compressor reaches the shutoff pressure (or you turn it off) it should go "PSSssss..). If it doesn't then the unloader valve isn't working. If it's in the cold, the unloader valve may just be iced up- warm it up with a hair dryer and see if it'll work properly.

lp

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Motor stalling during the fill cycle would indicate problems with the intank check valve, weak capacitor or low power to compressor. The unloader generally opens only when compressor reaches set pressure. Easy test. Unplug compressor with air in tank and remove the small airline at the checkvalve (brass valve in tank). Listen for air leak. Checkvalve is ok if no leak at brass valve. Test capacitor for 95% rated value. Replace as needed or test for low power. Good luck.

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1 Answer

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Compressor stops then leaks down to low setting


That little copper line is an unloading line, to bleed compressed air out of the compressor head so that the motor can more easily start the compressor. Pressor switch should be threadded into top of air tank, and the unloading valve is built into the side of the switch. When the tank reaches the high pressure setting the switch disconnects power to the motor and opens the unloading valve at the same time. The unloading valve should be connected to the compressor discharge line through a check valve with an unloading valve port upstream of the check valve. These valves are usually threaded into the top of the air tank as well. Sounds to me like your valve was leaking and someone bypassed it.

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I have worked on many makita compressors and have run-across this problem on a few of them. Your compressor has a check valve that is supposed to hold tank pressure after the switch reaches set pressure. There is an unloader valve built into the pressure switch that releases the pressure in the discharge hose after the unit shuts off. The unloader allows the compressor to restart with-out any pressure in the discharge line. If the brass check valve is leaking pressure back into the system, air will leak out of the unloader valve. Follow the discharge line to the tank and you will see the brass check valve. To test valve for fault, run the compressor till it builds around 80 psi and unplug the unit from the wall outlet. Remove the 1/4" hose connector from the check valve and check for air leaking out of the valve. If it is leaking you can order form www.toolpartsdirect.com. or call the makita 1-800 number. The price is about the same. Good Luck on your repair.

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Ingersoll rand air compressor 185


How old is the compressor ? This trouble shooting is directed to the vane and screw types of air compressors.

Caution,
For exact information on the equipment you are working on, go to the manufacturer’s maintenance and repair manual.

Here are some possibilities.

Compressor does not reach design pressure or capacity:
Air Pressure safety valve is leaking
Receiver air valve is open
Unloader valve is leaking
Loose Piping or fittings

Compressor will not load or unload:
Unloader valve defective
Air control valve is sticking or dirty
Unloader pressure is improperly set too high or too low
Water in the control lines
Plugged control lines

The air compressor CFPM is low:
Dirty air compressor air filter
Defective air intake control valve
High idle on power source improperly set
Damaged or worn rotor blades

Nov 23, 2008 | Air Tools & Compressors

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