Question about Washing Machines
SOURCE: F22 Error Code
TAKE 3 SCREWS OUT THAT HOLD THE BOTTOM FRONT PIECE REACH UP BEHIND AND ON THE DOOR LOCK MECHANISM THERE IS A ROUND PLASTIC DOOHICKEY PULL IT DOWN ABOUT 1/2 AN INCH OR AS FAR AS YOU CAN AND IT WILL UNLOCK THE DOOR. I WOULD UNPLUG UNIT FIRST. I DON'T KNOW ABOUT THE F22 THING. MY JUNKER DOES THE SAME THING PERIODICALLY, I UNPLUG AND REPLUG IT TO CORRECT
Posted on Sep 09, 2008
it needs a servicing as .the parts are getting blocked and not able to move frequently.
also check for the motor.
also try to clean it externally and see it should work.
and if not then calling a tech is advisable.
check out this link for more help
Posted on Oct 12, 2008
f22 is a door lock error and f28 is a commication error you still have warranty thorugh whirpool. you're going to need pro. help
Posted on Dec 14, 2008
f22 is a door lock error try this hit cancel turn your dial to another setting, hit start and once it starts hit cancel again and it should unlock. thats what i did anyway.
If you're getting an F22 error, you will want to check anything to do with the door latch switch.
Posted on Mar 14, 2009
Replace water inlet valve or clean water inlet screens. Remove the water inlet hoses and take a look see. Just guessing.
Posted on Jun 14, 2009
This is an indication of a door latch failure and/or interconnecting wiring problem. The first step in troubleshooting the problem is to unplug the washer for AT LEAST 30 minutes in an attempt to reset the Central Control Unit (CCU). This is the main "brain" of your washing machine. Sometimes these error codes are erroneous and can be easily cleared by resetting the CCU. If the error code reappears following a CCU reset, then you have a genuine problem. In addition, if the door latch remains locked following this procedure, there is a manual release you can use to open the door. Follow these steps:
1. Remove the lower panel under the door by loosening the three screws under the bottom edge on the front of the washer. HINT: If you prop up the front feet of the washer with a 2 x 4, it makes access to the screws much easier.
2. With the screws removed, the lower panel should drop down then come off. If the panel sticks, a light tap on either side will knock it loose.
3. Reach your hand up inside the washer behind the front casing on the right-hand side. This is where the door latch assembly is located.
4. At the bottom of the door latch assembly is a small pull tab. This is the manual release for the door. Pull the tab straight down and the door will come open.
If you still have the error code displayed, inspect the door latch mechanism for any broken, loose, or missing components. Next, open the top panel of the washer by removing the three screws in the rear of the washer that hold the panel in place. With the screws removed, the panel will slide back, then off. Locate the door latch on the right hand side behind the front panel. Inspect the wiring harness from the door latch to the to CCU. The CCU is located directly behind the wash tub in the top rear of the washer. Make sure all the connectors are snug and not loose or broken. In the majority of cases, a persistent error is a failed door latch. If all these preliminary checks are unsuccessful, replace the door latch. Follow these steps:
1. Unplug washer.
2. Remove the outer portion of the door bellow. This is the gray rubber boot around the door. Feel around the edge of the door bellow where it attaches to the front of the washer. You will find a wire retaining hoop in the seam between the rubber and the front case. Follow this wire hoop to the bottom of the door bellow and you will find a tension spring. Carefully, stretch this spring apart and remove the wire hoop.
3. Pull the rubber bellow from the door facing on the front of the washer being careful not to rip or tear it. Once removed, fold the rubber backwards inside the drum so you can access behind the front panel. DO NOT remove the rubber bellow from the wash tub.
4. The door latch assembly is located behind the front panel of the washer on the right hand side. Locate and remove the three screws on the washer front that hold the door latch assembly in place. The whole assembly should come free from the washer front and be held by a plastic mounting bracket and several wire connectors.
5. Carefully remove the latch assembly from the plastic mounting bracket BEFORE attempting to unplug any wires. It makes it much easier to access if you do.
6. Unplug the wire connectors using care not to break any of the wires. You may want to write them down, but I believe they will only plug into their respective slots.
7. Remove the old door latch and install the new one in the reverse order of the steps I just presented to you. Plug the wires back in first, then place the whole assembly back into the plastic mounting bracket, and then reattach to the front of the washer.
8. Now, when you get the reinstalling the rubber door boot, you may want to get the assistance of a second pair of hands as it can be difficult sometimes to manipulate the wire retainer back into place. Carefully reattach the rubber bellow to the door facing on the front of the washer first.
9. Starting at the top of the door bellow at the 12 o'clock position begin inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Work your way around with both hands to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions. (This is where you could use those second pair of hands). While holding a slight downward tension on the wire hoop to keep it in place, pull the tension spring apart enough to snap the remaining part of the hoop into place at the bottom. Once you've completed these steps make sure the door closes and latches properly. NEVER slam a door with an electronic latch. They can break easily.
NOTE: Another method is to access behind the front panel from the top with the top panel removed. Either method works, but I have found that going through the front offers better access.
The "SUDS" or "SUD" error can be caused by too much detergent, improper detergent, drain pump/drain line problem, or pressure switch malfunction.
1. If you are not using HE detergent, you need to be. These washers are designed to use HE detergent which is formulated for wash tubs that use 5 to 7 gallons of water. If you use regular detergent, you are, in affect, placing a higher concentration of detergent in the washer that is normally formulated for wash tubs that have a 35 gallon capacity. The manufacturer should have a disclaimer in the owner's manual explaining this. In most cases this will also void your warranty. NOTE: Prolonged use of the wrong detergent can damage the drain pump components and or wash tub seals.
If you are using the correct detergent, double check the label to make sure it is not double (2X) or triple (3X) concentrated. You could still be placing too much soap in your wash.
To get rid of excessive detergent, place the washer on a RINSE & SPIN cycle, then run it through a normal wash cycle with NO detergent added. You may have to repeat these steps depending on the amount of detergent used.
2. If you do not have a detergent issue, double check the drain pump and drain lines to ensure they are not obstructed in any way. Click on the following link for step-by-step instructions:
Obstructions in the drain pump and/or drain lines can attribute to air getting trapped in the drain pump and cause the error code. Double check all electrical connections to the drain pump and Central Control Unit (CCU). You will need to remove the top panel of the washer to access the CCU. This is accomplished by removing the three screws in the back of the washer that hold the top panel in place. With the screws removed, slide the panel back, then off. The CCU is located directly behind the wash tub in the center of the washer. The Drain Pump connector will be the 6th connector (facing from the front L to R) in the center of the CCU.
3. Check the Pressure Switch to ensure it is good. The Pressure Switch is located to the right of the CCU as you are looking from the front. It is a small cylindrical shaped device with a connector plug and an air hose attached. The switch can be checked at several water levels by removing the plug and taking resistance readings at the connector pins. Readings are as follows:
(Pins are numbered R to L facing the from the REAR)
Pins 1 to 2 (SUDS Detect) - 0 ohms
Pins 3 to 4 (Overflow) - 0 ohms
Pins 4 to 5 (L1) - 0 ohms
Pins 4 to 6 (Empty) - 0 ohms
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Posted on Sep 21, 2010
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