Question about GE Profile Spectra JGBP90 Gas Kitchen Range

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I have a ge el44 gas oven and oven would not work. i thought it was the igniter but when i took old out and replaced i realized electric was not getting to it. what to do-mark

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: GE XL44 gas oven

Starfish, remove the oven racks, in back there will be two chrome screws, remove them. Lift the lower oven panel out by pulling up from the rear. Remove the screws holding the flame spreader and remove the flame spreader. Now you will see the burner and igniter attached to it. There are 2 quarter inch hex screws holding the ignitor on. GE likes to put them on an angle where you cant get at them. If you have trouble you can remove the bottom drawer and remove the screws securing the burner to the back wall. There should be one in the front too. The burner will now lift up and you can get at the screws. The new ignitor should come with ceramic wire nuts. Just cut the old igniter, strip the ends of the wires going to it and wire nut the new one on. Reverse the rest of the steps. Here's a little trouble shooting schem. back.

Posted on Jan 20, 2007

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there is an ignitor called a glow bar in the oven if its gone bad or just gotten weak the saftey valve wont open to let gas in so it wont be able to light. replaced the glow bar

Posted on Nov 26, 2007

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SOURCE: Amana gas oven not working

The ignitor may be too weak to open the gas valve. If you have a volt/ohm meter capable of reading AMPS you can hook up to a ignitor wire and turn the oven ON. If you read less than 3.5 amps replace the ignitor. If 3.5 amps or more are read,replace the gas valve.

Posted on Aug 30, 2009

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SOURCE: GE XL44 pilot

I dont know if you recieved an answer yet but this is a fairly easy fix. Open your oven door and remove your bottom oven plate. You now should see the burner element running down the middle. at the rear of the burner element is the ignite r (small porcelin bugger with two wires) remove this and replace with a new one GE #WB2X9154 available from the website for 69.80 plus shipping. i just ordered (2) they seam to go out like clockwork every 2-3 years. To be safe unplug your ovens 110 volt cord first.

Good Luck

Posted on Sep 22, 2009

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Oven will not light

If your husband is handy and it is Igniter.. this is a job he can do. remove the burner cover and them the burner baffle and unscrew the igniter cover and pull the igniter out remove the wire nuts and replace with igniter part number WB02X9154 let me know how it works out for you.

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The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...

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This morning I turned on my oven and did not work (the other parts work well). It seems the igniter for the furnace is not working, i did not hear any gas flowinf to the furnace, usually "the igniter"...

Hello hilmia1605,

Not because "partselect" is my favorite site...
General Electric Range JGBS22BEA5WH PartSelect

(great to get such good numbers so early in the day... Thanx)...

Look at the top two troubles listed...

My opinion...
all these folks sell pretty much the same parts
is the most expensive TODAY + shipping = outrageous...!!
(SO... I don't even bother looking at SEARS).

Igniter partselect $42 (wb13K21)
Flat Style Oven Igniter Kit

at AMAZON (cheapest price I found)
Amazon com GE WB13K21 Igniter for Oven Home Improvement

VIDEO INSTRUCTIONS... from my fav...)
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Truth is I buy most my igniters from eBay (reputable sellers
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Carnac the Magnificent

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Me GE Gas oven is not working, but broiler and range do ?

I am working with model JGBP26WEH1WW GE Gas range: You do not need to remove the back or even turn over, just remove the storage pan at the base of the unit and disconect the two plugs (unique plugs). You will need to splice your old conectors to your new igniter. Yes you have the correct igniter for that model.

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I own a GE JGBP33BEH5BB and the oven doesn't get hot enough. I've changed the sensor with one from a JGBP30BEA1WH that was working fine when it was removed. (replacements for both are the same part number...

The orange glow is the igniter. Normally, the igniter turns on and begins to glow. As the igniter heats, the change in it's resistance causes it to use more electrical current (amperage). When the amperage level reaches a threshold (let's say 3.2 amps, for an example) the ovens safety gas valve will open because in knows the igniter (using that much electrical current) is hot enough to light the gas. This process usually takes under two minutes. The igniter stays on until the oven reaches the set temp, then it turns off, and the gas valve shuts off very soon after. Then the cycle repeats when the oven thermostat call for heat again after cooling down a bit.
The trouble is, as these igniters get old, they have a harder time reaching that needed amperage threshold to operate properly. You can just swap the broiler igniter with the bake igniter if you wish, as they are the same part number in your model, and the broil is generally used much less, and so should have much more life left. (of course now the broiler and the self clean will not work, until you replace the broiler igniter with a new one.) In rare cases, if you have low line voltage to the range (say 108 volts) that will also cause the same problem, or if you have a poor electrical connection, but those cases are rare, and about 99 percent of the time your problem will be fixed by replacing the oven igniter. (GE part number WB2X9154 for your model)
Sorry to get so long winded. Just replace the oven igniter.

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It is very rare for gas valves to fail. Most non-ignition problems are due to old igniters which no longer draw enough amperage to allow the gas safety valve to open. You might also consider testing your voltage with a digital meter, as lower voltage will cause ignition problems also. (say 110 volts instead of 120) Replace the igniter.

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It sounds as if you might have a problem with the gas valve for the oven. This is something that I would not reccomend that you try and fix yourself.

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