I need to know the specification of the resistor on the switch assembly of Nilfisk DK 8900 RANDERS type N250A pressure washer?

Alto nilfisk vaccuum is not spraying water , a highpressure washer do you mean not a vaccuum .

But If it's an alto nilfisk blue pressure washer on the vaccuums topic it must be the bypass / autostop on the pumphouse its internally a point where a microswitch is placed and depends on the type of washer by a problem with the parbak ( a parbak is a oring/ with auxiliary kevlar ring(s)) that can hang on lime, but on an other model there are 2 springs on the bypass and one of them the great spring is broken or only hanging on lime but thats rare if it is.
I don't know if there are vaccuums with water spraying only for remove dust.

People in home units may not have outside hose connections, but may have external areas that cna be conveniently cleaned with a pressure washer.

Usually pressure washers are constructed with connections for external taps. However, most domestic washers will self prime and work just as well if tap end of the hose is stuck in a bucket full of water. (this can be grey water, so long as it isn't gritty or abrasive.)

Don't know this model intimately but it looks similar to the Karcher which is really total **** nowadays as its all made of plastic. The motor has a weird switch mechanism but if it tries to run and the motor doesn't then 100:1 the motor is seized. Very unlikely it's the actual motor but the pump is a "swash" plate that opens 3 stainless steel thin flat valves. the bearing that the pump shaft goes through is a phospher-bronze plain bush with a seal each side and if this has dried out then you are screwed. Same if you model has steel roller bearings. However, if it does run and build up pressure and it stops because the output pressure is too high then the overload pressure switch is faulty. If it is the Karcher type then again you are stuffed but if it is similar to the Nilfisk then a replacement is available for around £100 GB Pounds - probably cheaper to buy a new one.

Sounds as if the pressure valve is either stuck open or the spring has broken due to rust. Nilfisk have a repair kit but the cheaper Karcher ones are throw-a-way items. You don't say what make or model.

Don't know this model intimately but it looks similar to the Karcher which is really total **** nowadays as its all made of plastic. The motor has a weird switch mechanism but if it tries to run and the motor doesn't then 100:1 the motor is seized. Very unlikely it's the actual motor but the pump is a "swash" plate that opens 3 stainless steel thin flat valves. the bearing that the pump shaft goes through is a phospher-bronze plain bush with a seal each side and if this has dried out then you are screwed. Same if you model has steel roller bearings. However, if it does run and build up pressure and it stops because the output pressure is too high then the overload pressure switch is faulty. If it is the Karcher type then again you are stuffed but if it is similar to the Nilfisk then a replacement is available for around £100 GB Pounds - probably cheaper to buy a new one.

Hi, You can get this seal set for a 1502v from nilfisk alto or any alto dealer.

hi could be many things dirty fuel / filter dirty or broken flame sensor /broken thermocouple broken/incocectly set pressure switch hope this helps merlinv12

There are a couple of common causes for a problem like this. First is a bad door lock assembly that also damages the machine control board (in the control panel). If this is the case the R11 resistor on the machine control board will be burnt.

Maytag has identified seven resistors that relate to specific components that need to be checked or replaced if the resistor is damaged. Listed here are the resistor identification, the circuit involved, and the recommendation:

R9 / pressure switch / check for loose connections or high resistance on switch contacts; replace pressure switch if necessary.

R11 / door lock wax motor / replace door lock mechanism and machine control board.

R51 / hot water valve solenoid / replace water valve and machine control board.

R52 / timer motor / check for loose relay terminal connections and replace machine control board.

R53 / cold water valve solenoid / replace water valve and machine control board.

R143 / (-) 24 Volt DC / contact was made between neutral and the 24 Volt DC circuit.

R162 / electrical buffer circuit / wire harness and machine control board.


Another common issue is a slow water fill fault. If the washer does not fill within a certain time the control will stop on a fault. Usually when this happens the START button can be pushed to continue the cycle.

Washing machines that won't fill or fill slowly often have a restriction in the incoming water supply -- usually in the screens of the inlet hose washers or the water inlet valve itself. Remove the hoses to inspect this condition. If the water inlet valve screens are plugged, replace the water inlet valve.


Go here for: Maytag Neptune Washer Parts

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sounds like the trigger switch is stuck.try to spray a little wd40 up into the switch and work it ,maybe it will free up.if not the switch is probably bad

need to be more specific,is it click an clean tube with tornado nozzel ,or 15m drain&tube cleaner.