Question about True 49 cu. ft. / 1388 liter Commercial Freezer GDIM-49NT

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Replaced run cap, motor windings ohm out good, condenser fans work. when i power up unit the compressor overload trips after 5-6 seconds

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  • gnd7 Oct 01, 2010

    well it looks like your right, but the LRA listed on unit is 55.0, seems like alot. I was reading 30 when I tried to start it. My caps are good (R/S) and the potential relay. I think i messed up the didgital defrost control with all the power flux. I should have checked the suppy voltage

  • gnd7 Oct 01, 2010

    I should have checked my supply V, but I did check S

  • gnd7 Oct 01, 2010

    did that twice sorry

  • gnd7 Oct 01, 2010

    did it wrong also, please look at the coments part of this page

  • gnd7 Oct 01, 2010

    it has digital defrost. so u think it was changed

  • gnd7 Oct 01, 2010

    well it looks like your right, but the LRA listed on unit is 55.0, seems like alot. I was reading 30 when I tried to start it. My caps are good (R/S) and the potential relay. I think i messed up the didgital defrost control with all the power flux. I should have checked the suppy voltage

  • gnd7 Oct 03, 2010

    2 days ago
    well it looks like your right, but the LRA listed on unit is 55.0, seems like alot. I was reading 30 when I tried to start it. My caps are good (R/S) and the potential relay. I think i messed up the didgital defrost control with all the power flux. I should have checked the suppy voltage



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Probably locked rotor. This happens sumetims when the connecting rod breaks or seizes up on the crank shaft. Seperate your power cord ar some point so that you can put an amp meter around just one of the hot wires. It should be 10.2 amps maximum. I think you will see it spike to 25 amps for 2 to 3 seconds when the compressor tries to start. That almost immediately kicks out the overload. This compressor is not rebuildable. so it will require a new one if it is what I think.

Posted on Sep 28, 2010

Testimonial: "thanks , still need your help"

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  • gnd7 Sep 29, 2010

    thanks, I will do that tomorrow .I sure hope your wrong about the rebuild. I'm a 41 year old college student with wife and 3 daughters at home. I'm getting a A.A.S. in hvac/r, the freezer was sgiven to me when it stopped working at my work. They never once did preventive maintenance on it. they were gonna scrap it. anyways it is semi- hermetic, its Model # is KALB 015E CAV 232. Are you sure and if so why?

  • Harry Presley Sep 30, 2010

    I am a bit curious on this one. Possibly it is a bit older than I thought. The compressor model number is a semi-hermetic. It is rebuildable. However in 25 years of selling new and used True refrigeration as well as replacing compressors myself for 25 years, I have never known a local technician to ever rebuild one. Almost every Copeland semi hermetic compressor available at refrigeration repair parts companies are rebuilt. The new ones go to manufacturers.These compressors carry a core charge, meaning they want the casting back so they can rebuild them. I will find out tomorrow if rebuild kits are available. I still recommend you check the amps, just to verify that it is a locked rotor. If you verify a locked rotor, this may be a great time to tear into a Coplematic. Normally, when I buy out a restaurant or grocery store and get refrigeration equipment with a locked rotor compressor, unless the cabinet is really pristine, we scrap the whole unit. In most cases the freezer you have will resale for about $1500.00 if the cabinet is really pristine. The cost to change out a semihermetic, doing the labor myself is around $900.00. You have to ask yourself at some point do you try to save it or put that kind of money and time into it for $500 to $600 in profit. There is also another down side and that is, how badly did the compressor burn out and why? If it was a total meltdown in the motor coils there will be a lot of debris in the refrigerant lines. If it locked up because it was running with low or no refrigerant (freon), it may well have leaks in the system that will also require expensive repairs. An evaporator coil can easily cost $400.00 plus time labor and refrigerant. When I started my business over 25 years ago, I tried to save every piece of refrigeration equipment I got my hands on. I agree its hard to throw something away if it can be repaired, but choose your battles carefully they can really leave you disappointed. Please keep in touch, I am interested in your situation and I wish you the best.

  • Harry Presley Oct 01, 2010

    I did some checking with True MFG today and they told me that this model freezer has had a tin can compressor for as far back as he could find records. That is what was confusing to me. Since you have a semi hermetic Copeland, someone has done a shadetree replacement or it is a very old unit. I found valve body rebuild kits for the unit but nowhere could I find a crank, piston or motor winding kit. The correct sealed unit would cost you around $350.00 providing everything else is good. They are currently using Aspera or Tecumseh compressors



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The relay can be tested by putting meter leads in the 2 holes on it where it attaches to the compressor and it should be closed (zero ohms of resistiance) if you have the rectangle one thats how to test it. If its older style and has the wire coils on top of it must turn it upside down but still closed w/zero ohms.

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Freezer motor cuts in and out. Runs for about thirty seconds at a time. Now have red low temp light on and everything is defrosting. Sides of freezer used to be very warm and are now cold.

Good day,
Some kind of compressor problem. If it will run a true 30 seconds then it is either the start relay mounted on the side of the compressor hanging up and not releasing after the compressor starts or the main windings in the compressor are starting to short, causing the compressor to draw too much current followed by the protective overload shutting the compressor down.
The relay is pressed onto the compressor pins and can be removed.

A parts house should be able to test it for you. If bad, replace. If it tests good then the problem is internal to the compressor and would need the attention of a qualified tech.

P.S. If the unit is under 5 years of age, leave it alone and call for factory service. It may or may not be covered but if so it would be necessary to preserve the balance of the 5 year warranty.

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1 Answer

Tripping breaker

Hi, this is not a good sign when a unit trips a breaker. I can tell you whats causing this without having you check every thing on the unit. The compressor has gone out and drawing what we call locked rotor amps. This is what happens when one fails, it is the only part on the unit to draw enough amperage to trip a breaker. To confirm this, you can pull the unit away from the wall and unplug it. Remove the lower panel that will expose the condenser fan motor and coil, and the problem compressor. On the side of the compressor where the wires go into it, you will see a metal strap that is hooked around a black terminal cover. Remove it by using a screw driver lifting one end off. Now the cap will pull straight off. You will see a small round overload relay there and it just sets there with a metal clip that holds it on. Remove it also and it will have a blk wire attached to a compressor terminal, that is marked C for common. You will have 2 more for the other terminals, R for run, and S for start. Just pull them off. Tape the ends of the wires up so they don't touch anything and don't worry where they go as this compressor will be done. After you have done this, Plug it in and set the control to cool. Everything now should work as far as light and fans, and the breaker will not trip with the faulty compressor out of the circuit. It would be much cheaper to buy a new or good used unit then to replace this compressor. This has to be done by an expert on this kind of unit. It was probably shorted to ground a internal burn out. Sorry to give this news to you, but this happens. Keep me posted on what you have done.

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1 Answer

Freezer is warm, not freezing at all, fans run

If the fans your talking about are in the refrigeration section, then the unit is not in defrost. The interior fans shut off during the defrost cycle.
There is a condenser fan motor in the machine section by the compressor. If it fails, the problem you described can occur.
If that fan motor is still, and the compressor is cool to the touch, then no power is getting to the refrigeration section.
Could be a bad thermostat, or the unit has tripped off on the high pressure safety switch. The high pressure switch can be one of 2 styles. Auto reset, which means it will try to restart the compressor when the pressures become normal. The other has a lock out feature that requires it be reset manually. If it goes out on the high pressure switch, once reset, check the condenser fan motor to make sure it is running and/or excessive dirt in the condenser, which must be blown out.
Other causes can be a total loss of refrigerant, or a compressor that won't run.
Short of a broken wire all items listed except for a dirty condensor and reset of the high pressure switch, require a decent knowledge of electrical, Knowledge in the use of a VOM meter and amp-probe, as well as a set of refrigeration gauges.

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