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HOW COLD IS AIR COMING OUT OF THE DUCT SYSTEM FROM A 5 TON CONDENSER GSX13060

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Depends on alot of conditions. Was the unit sized right for the house. Are the filters clean? Is the charge proper for the refrigerant? A rule of thumb I look for for is about a 20 degree split. Everyone has a temp they look for. Mine is 20. This gives you a good split and enough temperature drop across the coil to dehumidify so it's not "sticky" inside the house. Take the temperature in your house somewhere that is a good average. Then, take the temperature of the air leaving the air conditioning vent. If your house temp is 80 and you have air leaving your vent at 60, you have an OK split. If it's lover, that could be good to a point. If it's lower with little air coming out of the vent, you have a clogged filter, a clogged coil, or to slow of a fan speed. I also found once that the duct work was torn off the HVAC unit in the attic, so it looked like there was little airflow.

Posted on Sep 28, 2010

  • Michael Youngman
    Michael Youngman Sep 28, 2010

    You know, I don't know how I got a single rating. You asked a question, I answered it, and I get a single rating. I don't even know why I waste my time. I try to save people money and it's morons like you that screw it up for everyone else. I'm done. Go screw yourself!! You give people advice for free. I could ask money, but I don't. I do it to give people a little knowledge of what is going on, and you screw it up for everyone. Good job!!

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Rcba 4882g how much is it to replace the central AC condensing unit


This will be dependent on the capacity (tonnage or BTU/Hr) of the condenser, its location and how much refrigerant will be needed to added / replaced - plus the labor to do it. A typical 2 - 3 ton residential system (air handler / condenser - no duct work, etc.) can run $2k and up.

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My 1.5 ton lg split ac is switching of and on more frequently , its cooling too is not sufficient even at 18 degrees . what should i do?


Hello my name is Heath it will be my pleasure to assist you. The first thing to check is the filter in the furnace or air handler. Also check the inside coil to be sure its not frozen up. Does the air coming out feel cold? It sounds like the unit could be low on charge which means it has a leak and should be leak checked repaired and properly charged. You would need refrigeration gauges to put on the system in order to properly check the refrigerant charge in the system. One other thing could be a dirty condenser coil. Turn the power off to the unit and use a garden hose with a strong nozzle and spray water through the whole coil to try and blow any dirt or debris through the condenser coil in the outside unit.

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Not enough, hardly any air flow coming thru forced hot air/central air system. Forced air has hard steel round 4" tubing to all rooms. Just recently bought a small ranch with 1000 sq ft that has a...


You have a mess, You need a complete new duct system and new equipment.......

You have a 2 1/2 ton AC which needs 1000 cfm of air to do the job. You need a supply trunk line 8 by 24 inch with takeoffs of a Min of 6" round pipe to each register which will delvery 100 cfm per run 4" will only delivery about 30 cfm per run.... and then you also need a 10 by 24 return Duct to the furnace ....

So that is why the heat exchanger burned up and the that is why the Compressor is noisy because you was flooding back liquid to the compressor... All because of air flow....
If you replace the AC or Furnace without replacing the Ductwork you will burn them up also....

Sorry for being so Frank......

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The AKAI Asplet air conditioner does not cool my room


Your condenser may be dirty and the evaporator coils should be cleaned there may be inadequate air flow around the condenser. if there is a leak, your unit may be out of refrigerant you might have a leak in your duct system.Contact an aircon technician to clean and refill the freon and it will be cold as new.Thanks

Jan 25, 2011 | Sanyo Heating & Cooling

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What is the size of coil in air handler is it 3 1/2 ton and believe that rudd only made 2 ,3 , 4, 5 , ton coil is this right


It is a 3.5 ton air handler and without knowing for sure about Rudd only making those sizes which they should, they more than likely would have gone up to a 4ton coil. One way to cross check this, is to see what ton the condenser outside says it is. If you have a 4ton condenser, then you should have a 3.5 to 4 ton coil, either being okay. What you don't want, is a 3 ton coil and a 4 ton condenser and so on. A half ton isn't going to be a problem regardless, but if anything, you can always take the measurements of the coil if you are trying to replace it.

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The heat from my aircondition is soo intence that my room becomes hot rather than cold air


you need to direct the hot air coming out of the unit out of the room and the cool air into the room. You need to run a duct or tube from the condenser side to outside. Otherwise it is just recycling the air and adding heat from the compressor.

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Carrier air handler tonnage?


That is a fairly large difference. It is usually ok to have the inside evap. coil and blower up to 1 ton larger than the outside condenser. That will make the unit slightly more efficient as well as less likely to freeze up on low airflow situations. It is not recommended to install a new condenser on an old evap coil. There has been a lot of changes to the design of the coils in the last little while. For example a 10 year old 2 ton coil may only have 3 cubic feet of volume but a new 2 ton coil may have 4 cubit feet of volume.

There are many factors that may have infulenced the decision on what size condenser to install. Many of which can only be done by visiting the home and doing alot of work, checking the duct sizing bioth supply and return, inspecting the insulation and windows of the home etc. etc. Most of the time that never gets done. You can blame the contractor for not doing a complete check, but at the same time you can blame the customer because many contractors that are that good loose the job to a cheaper bid that did not no any of the research. It is a catch 22 for everyone involved.

There is ALOT more to sizing equipment that many people think, sadly that also includes many HVAC contractors. Way too many people use "rule of thumbs" or flat out "guess".

Sorry for the rant but your queston can only be answered by a good well educated HVAC contractor visiting your home. That type of a contractor is getting hard to find these days in such a price competetive world.

Oct 14, 2008 | Carrier Heating & Cooling

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In Dec 07 I had a complete Carrier AC/Gas Heating System installed in my home to replace my original system when my house was built in 1983.We upgraded the new system to 3-TON AC as the old AC was 2 and...


Air conditioning requires 400 cfm (cubic feet per minute) per ton of cooling so your old 2.5 ton system would have required 1000 cfm and your new 3 ton requires 1200 cfm. This is not a big change, but if your ductwork is too small it could cause problems. The best way to check to see if airflow is the problem is to check the temperature of the air going in to the system and then check it when it comes out. Take a temp reading with a reliable digital thermometer at the return grill ( the vent that is physically the closest to the furnace that is sucking air in). Then take a temperature reading at the vent that is physically closest to the furnace and that is blowing air out. The target range is for the air coming out to be 18-22 deg F colder that the air going in. If the air is coming out is more than 22 deg colder then there is not enough air moving through the system. If the air is coming out is less than 18 deg colder then the problem is with the system. Potential problems range from improper refrigerant charge or incorrect refrigerant metering to wrong coil/volume ratio which is essentially mis-matched equipment. It sounds to me like you have a company that doesn't really have much of a clue what they are doing. When the company I work for changes equipment in a house to a larger capacity, we always check the ductwork and do the math ahead of time to make sure that things will work rather that throwing things at problems later. Also, when you check your temps turn the system on and allow it to run for about 10-15 min first so that everything has a chance to stabilize and the ductwork has a chance to cool down.

Jun 30, 2008 | Carrier Heating & Cooling

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