I have a D90 and I just got, used, a 50 mm f/1.4 D lens. The lens motor sounds like it is working, but only moves the lens a small amount. Not enough to properly auto focus. It will manually focus, but the movement is not as free as another 50 mm lens I compared it to. Yes, I could bring it back, but if there is a simple fix, I'd like to do that.

How did you get the lens to browse the internet

Yes. I have one and it works perfectly on my D90. If you get the version with an aperture ring, be sure to set the aperture to its smallest setting (f/22) and lock it. You control the aperture from the camera, the same way as on a lens without an aperture ring. If you get the version without an aperture ring, don't worry about it.

Both have 70 mm as the widest angle of view, and up to 200 mm as telephoto, while one goes 50% further to 300 mm telephoto range. This means you can zoom in on objects further away than with the 200 mm lens. This is called the focal length of the lens.

The 200 mm offers VR II (second generation of Vibration Reduction) technology, which will allow shooting without a tripod in darker situations than without this technology. This can be a very handy feature if you are in low light situations and don't like to carry a tripod around.

Besides the focal length, a big part of a lens's cost and desirability is how "fast" it is. A lens that has an opening of "f2" is said to be "twice as fast" as one that is "f4". Another way to think of it is that it can allow twice the amount of light into the camera in the same amount of time that an f4 lens can. This means you can shoot in 1/60 sec at f2 as opposed to 1/30 sec at f4 to get the same amount of light in the image. If you don't have a tripod, and you're shooting at 70mm, 1/60 sec is the slowest you can shoot to get a non-blurred image (don't shoot slower than the inverse of the focal length: 70mm = 1/70 sec or 1/60 sec and when zoomed in 200 mm = 1/200 sec - or 1/250 on your camera) The more inexpensive wide angle zooms are often f4.5 - f5.6 and can run several or more hundred dollars. The f2 lenses cost several times more than the f4 - f5 counterparts. This is where the VR technology comes into play. This feature "freezes" the image to allow for an exposure that would be too blurry or otherwise not viewable. You can read a quick article about the differences between VR and VR II for Nikon lenses here. There are others to read, too - so read more than one for more than one opinion.

Another variable, is the coatings. Multi-coated lenses are generally more expensive than single or non coated lenses. Each coating reduces unwanted effects of stray light, etc. that can cause flares on images, etc. You can read more about coatings here.

There are other variables, but those are the main points. You'll have to weigh the differences between the lenses, your intended use for them and cost.

I hope this provided a good starting point for you and good luck!

Sounds like a dodgy electrical contact, possibly between the lens mount and the camera body. The lens ought to still be in warranty, but that would depend on what warranty the manufacturer or seller offer in your part of the world (in the UK, the seller is responsible for the first year). Try to find the warranty documentation. To get warranty coverage, you will almost certainly have to have the dated receipt.

I'm assuming it actually said "FEE".

This indicates that the aperture ring on the lens is not set properly. Turn it to its smallest aperture (largest f/number) and lock it. You can let the camera control the aperture, or control it yourself from the camera, just as you would on a lens without an aperture ring.

For the best under $1000, that would be the D90.

The 18-105VR will work on the D70s.

Yes, you won't get 3D matrix metering or TTL distance
though. Check here for more info:

http://www.nikonians.org/nikon/slr-lens.html

To figure the equivalent coverage comparable to a film camera, multiply the number of mm by 1.5. Example: a 50mm lens will be like a 75mm lens on a digital camera.

yes it will

Normal 0 MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";}I believe it is equivalent to a 35 to 210mm lens on a 35mmcamera. If you are considering a Nikon such as the D60, D80, D90, etc.,the standard lens sold with the camera is 18-135mm. This is not the sameas an 18-135mm on a 35mm film camera. The equivalent 35mm film cameralens would be 27-202mm (you multiply by 1.5), about the same as what youhave now. If I were planning to do wildlife photography, I would buy a usedNikkor ED 70-300mm AF lens on E-bay. You should be able to get one for$200 or less (the new price is $550+). This lens is designed for a 35mmfilm camera and is the equivalent of a 105-450mm when used on a Nikon digital cameras. Additionally, it is compadable with the automatic features of the Nikon digital camera bodies. This would give you an excellent portrait lens at 105mm and extra long reachfor wildlife. The fast shutter speed and stabilization circuit on thedigital camera should make it usable in daylight without a tripod. I havethis lens on a Nikon film camera and it is a superior lens. At a 1/1000second or faster shutter speed, I get sharp hand held photos.