WPSF5170W0WW G.E. Profile...Bout ta break something or someone
Is the PS271515NUT PULLEY regular or reverse theard...I took the washing machine completely apart to replace the main seal and when I went to put it back together...somehow the NUT PULLEY won't come back off.... I've tried just about everything; dry ice, coke trick, WD-40...Please help before I chuck the whole thing.
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Must look underneath machine and verify nut holding up belt pulley has not loosened, if nut is loose, the noise you are hearing is the pulley scraping against plastic cover. if nut loose, unplug unit and remove 2 5/16in screws from plastic cover, remove nut and add loctite to threads, re-install nut tightly, re-install cover and all is fixed.
Hello, Does it sound like its spinning in regular and just not spinning? If So You may just need to replace the belt. Also this unit the motor pulley would melt and break. Lean the unit back and you can see the belt and pulley. Hope this helps and please dont forget to rate me. Thank You...
The first thing to determine is if the pulley is loose due to wear on the pulley or if the spin bearing in the outer tub is bad.
Remove the belt. Make sure the nut holding the pulley in place is tight.
Wiggle the pulley while shining a bright lamp on it.. is it loose on the shaft or is the shaft moving.
If the shaft is moving.. outer tub needs to be replaced.. and in some cases this means the spin basket as well.
If you remove the pulley..and the inside mating surfaces which are flat on two sides are worn or rounded off.. bad pulley.. the retaining nut may not have been tightened properly.. or it became loose up over time,
However the black dust means the belt has been slipping ..some dust is probably normal due to age.. rubber breaks down..but a lot of dust means friction.. which means something is not turning as freely as it should.
So it has to be a loose retaining nut, worn pulley..or worn failing outer tub bearing.. I am afraid it's more than likely the last one.
Sears Parts Direct will have diagrams for your model..
Hi, there is a tub seal (WH02X10032) that can be replaced, however, the tub nut generally requires the GE tool to remove. The nut is hex shaped, but is made of a pretty soft alloy so it can break if you use a regular wrench. Once the tub is out, you may also find that you need a new tub nut and split ring.
Hey gunsmoke55, Let’s collect some info. and I will try to help.I own the FAV6800A the LED flavor of the machine and as you can tell from my nick name I DIY all repairs on the machine. 1.Did your FAV9800A signal an unbalance statement to the display to trigger the clutch replacement? 2.How badly rusted up was the One-Way Roller clutches bearing?Did you follow my clutch maintenance/repair post to replace your new clutch?Clutch Fix Post . 3.When you removed the original clutch did your series of the machine use the Upper One-Way Roller clutches bearing ring?From pulling info. from other FAV6800A owners I have been able to confirm series 10 and 11 used the Upper One-Way Roller clutches bearing ring.Info from FAV9800A owners is very lean.What is your series of machine (the first two digits of your serial number) and did it use the Upper One-Way Roller clutches bearing ring?
4.You should be able to rotate the wash basket with one finger CCW with very little resistance.Try that and let me know if the wash basket will rotate CCW with one finger .The wash basket must not rotate CW by hand.With the front cover removed (pull the 120VAC power cord) you should be able to rotate the Clutch Pulley CCW and CW with light resistance. “”I just replaced (new) the clutch on my FAV9800AWW, and machine goes through most of regular cycle, but at some point (reverse or tumble?), it tries to do something between the motor and clutch and the belt just squeals very loudly and burns. Ideas? SW”” If you machine used the Upper One-Way Roller clutches bearing ring it may not be seated in the wash tub base properly.It is a very tricky fitment process to re-install it and the Clutch Pulley assembly correctly.Let me know what you find and we will go from there. Some insight into normal operation of the machine you may be aware of this; In the wash/agitate cycle the Control Board signals the Motor Control board to power the Motor CW turning the Clutch Pulley CW driving the agitator shaft which drives thetransmission to rotate the tumblers only. In a Spin Only cycle or the Spin Cycle of a Wash Cycle the Control Board signals the Motor Control board to power the Motor CCW turning the Clutch Pulley CCW.The One-Way Roller clutches lock up solid driving the Spinner assembly CCW spinning the wash basket CCW.When the One-Way Roller clutches do not lock up rock solid and slip you get tumbler movement as the wash basket begins to spin up.This causes the wash basket load to go off balance and if the TDS is working properly it’s signal input to the Control Boardexceeds design limits of Outer Tub movement and the Control Board fails the Spin Cycle wit a dC or uC unbalance error or in your case an unbalance statement to the LCD display. Also during the initial water fill cycle of the wash cycle the Control Board will signal the Motor Control Board to power the wash basket CCW slow RPM.I believe the Maytag design team did this to wet the wash basket load on initial water fill…..Rich Upper One-Way Roller clutches bearing ring
Hello shortschip, See this Post and I think it will get you started (old nickname dh1200s). I believe the FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW use 6207-2rs bearings in the outer tub. I have not replaced so I can?t say for sure. The Service Manual which will take you thru removing the outer tub and Clutch Pulley to remove the spinner assembly. There is a special tool needed to break loose the ¾? nut to remove the Spinner Assembly. I heard of someone removing that ¾? nut with a impact tool. Let us know how you make out The FAV6800AW/FAV9800AW Service Manual for reference. Sears Parts Direct for reference. Check ebay for the bearings. Rich