Question about Hayward 2HP Pool Pump Motor A O Smith Electric Pool Motor for 56J Frame

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Pump is working, there is no leaks to be found around the pump area. when I bleed the pressure it seems to work ok, but when it turns on it's own, the returns are not flowing enough pressure water back into the pool. been working on this all week, What can I do to fix this problem now?

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Check the impeller with a long set of pliers to see if something is stuck in there. If so check your basket for cracks and be sure it is in correctly.If you have no other problems this is probably it.

Posted on Sep 28, 2010

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Bleeding the clutch after slave removal on Golf 4 1.6


Mk4 Brake and clutch fluid change and bleeding

First time I've done this on the R and after hearing various scare stories of it taking a while or being a tricky job involving Vag-com etc I thought I'd share my experience today.

Firstly you will need:

7mm spanner - front bleed nipple
11mm spanner - rear bleed nipple
9mm spanner - clutch bleed nipple
length of clear hose - makes clutch bleed easier
Eazi-Bleed Pressure Bleeder - because pedal pumping is for women
2 ltr brake fluid - Halfords Hi Perf 5.1 for me, run it in race cars and it works
spare wheel - for the Eazi-Bleed
R32 compressor - it's in the boot...keep that spare wheel at the right pressure

Ok, this is an easy job to do and very satisfying when done right, improved braking and clutch pedal motion...it should take you no more than about 1.5 hours all in and you should use around 1.5ltr of fluid.

Start off by connecting up the Eazi-bleed as per the instructions, making sure your spare wheel (I used the space saver from my Jag) is at 14.5-15psi. Once you've attached it to the reservoir and are sure there is no hissing (leaks), disconnect the tyre and fill the eazi-bleed with your new fluid. Re-attach tyre to build pressure.


Starting at offside side front, remove wheel, locate bleed nipple, remove cap, attach length of hose (directed at pan/bowl/jug), use the 7mm spanner to loosen the nipple just enough so the fluid starts to flow through. Don't open it too much and always keep an eye on the eazi-bleed bottle not getting too low on fluid). Keep an eye on the fluid coming through the pipe and when bubbles (there shouldn't really be any) have stopped and the fluid seems clear and clean. Tighten up the nipple.



Repeat the process, with front nearside, rear offside, rear nearside...eachtime checking the eazi-bleed bottle (topping up when needed as per instructions) and the condition of the fluid. You should use around 1ltr on the brakes as you're flushing the rubbish dot 4 as well as bleeding them.

With that all done, locate the bleed nipple for the clutch. It's right between the battery and engine and fairly accessible. Again, remove the nipple, fit your pipe, then loosen around 1/4 turn to see the fluid come out fairly quickly..you may want to fill up the eazi-bleed before starting this as it'll take about 500ml to do.

Pump the clutch pedal by hand, it'll go straight to the floor...it's normal. Pump it around 15-20 times keeping an eye on the EB bottle, you should notice some pressure come back to the pedal although it still won't return itself without you pulling it up.

Tighten up the bleed nipple, making sure when you remove the pipe to not get any on your car or paintwork. Disconnect the tyre, replace the reservoir cap and go test your silky smooth clutch.



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Mar 11, 2011 | 2001 Volkswagen Golf

1 Answer

I Nee help in changing a fuel pump on my 2002 chevy malibu can u please give me steps on how to take the gas tank off to putting it back on. so i can show my husband that his wife can do this


The in tank fuel pump is not an easy task and is potentially dangerous. It will cost about $700.00 for a private garage to perform the service if it is indeed the fuel pump. If you insist on attempting this task, please buy a service manual from an auto parts store. If fuel pumps is bad, find a clean area to work because you do not want to get contamination in the fuel tank. You need to get a fuel pressure gage and in the engine compartment under the hood remove the cap of the test port before connecting the fuel pressure gage to the port. Turn the ignition key on and the fuel pump will run for two seconds, and then turn the ignition off. Note the pressure of the gauge and match it with the specifications in your manual. I hope it is ok, which means it is not the fuel pump. You need to disconnect the negative battery terminal and relieve the pressure of the system by using the fuel pressure gage bleed off valve with the hose of the bleed off in an approved gas container. Remove the fuel tank straps and drop the tank. You are now good to disconnect the pump electrical connector, fuel hoses and EVAP hose from the pump. Note the position of the pump which you need to reinstall the new pump in the same direction. Clean around the tank and pump connection since you do not want dirt in your tank. Place the tank in a clean working area with no sparks or flames from natural gas appliance can ignite the gas tank fumes. Use a scratch all and a pair of channel lock pliers to lift and turn the retaining ring of the pump clockwise. Remove the pump and clean around the seal area. Install a new seal and insert the pump making sure it is seated all the way. Install the retaining ring and the locking tap is engaged with the slot. While you're under the car working on the fuel system, you may want to replace the fuel filter since the fuel pressure is released. Reassemble the tank and hook up the connections and hoses. Reconnect the negative battery terminal and test for fuel pressure again. If all is good then you can disconnect the fuel pressure gage and replace the cap. You may want to consider paying $700.00 than the deductible of your home and medical insurance. However, if you attempt it, I wish you the best of luck, if you do not attempt it at least you know how it is done.

Jun 24, 2010 | RTO Star Products Deluxe Vacuum and Fuel...

2 Answers

2003 chevy malibu. brakes go to the floor.


Master cyl. is "bypassing" replace it, but make sure you "bench bleed " it first !
After that then have someone get in car and pump up brakes, you then bleed them one at a time.
MAKE sure not to let the master cyl. res. go dry or you will be there ALL DAY bleeding !

Feb 05, 2010 | 2003 Chevrolet Malibu

2 Answers

I have changed the clutch master cylinder and the slave cylinder, but still don't have pedal, we have bleed the lines and checked for leaks, no leaks were found. The new slave cylinder doesn't seem to be...


Thn the problem is the clutch master cylinder, it should build up pressure, ok try out this, remove the pipe which is going to the slave cylinder either from the clutch master cylinder or at the clutch slave cylinder and get someone to pump the pedal while you block the pipe and see if there is fluid thrown out with pressure.If there is pressure there thn fit back the pipe and refill the reserviour wth brake fluid and open the bleeding nipple at the slave cylinder let some fluid pour out and tighten it and thn pump the pedal and retry bleeding.
If there is no pressure at the pipe thn its the clutch master cylinder.
Hope this helps!

Dec 14, 2009 | 1997 Acura CL

2 Answers

No pressure when I brake.


I would suspect there is either a crack in your brake line. the fluid has to go somewhere if youre having to refill the reservior. Maybe they didnt bleed them after the work was done, and had an air bubble and when you applied pressure is blew out a fitting. needs to be checked out though for sure!

Oct 26, 2009 | 2004 Pontiac Sunfire

1 Answer

Brakes


YOU HAVE A MAJOR LEAKING ISSUE IF IT DRY ALL AROUND THE WHEELS AREAS THEN YOUR POPORTING VALVE ARE YOUR MASTERCYLINDER IS BAD POSSIBLY LEAKING IN TI YOU BOOSTER HOLE WERE IT BOLTS UP

Feb 14, 2009 | 1993 Jeep Wrangler

2 Answers

Bleeding clutch slave cylinder


i think youre doing the right thing. they are very stubborn to bleed because the hyd. line goes up high across back of engine before droppiing back down to slave cyl., trapping air. could try to gravity bleed by opening bleeder at slave, cap off of master cyl, full with fluid then it may start to come out after a bit. then try your process again. or can try to bleed at connections further up the line, working your way back to bleeder. hope this helps. be patient.

Nov 15, 2008 | 1996 Honda Accord

1 Answer

Toyota steering too light


The only way I know of to bleed a power steering system is to turn the steering wheel from lock to lock (all the way to one side and then turn all the way to the other side) 3 or 4 times. that will bleed all the air out of the system. You might have had a leak for a longer than that you realized and by fixing the hose the power steering works VERY good and you are no long used to how easy it once worked.

Nov 10, 2008 | 1990 Toyota Pickup

1 Answer

Golf 3 hood pump electric


Seems like you will have to locate the oil leak first and repair it as it sounds like you are loosing pressure.

Jul 21, 2008 | 1993 Volkswagen Cabriolet

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