Question about Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

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I read some of the posts from people who had the same problem I'm having but after following the steps suggested, mine is still not right... My problem is this.. It keeps flashing f21. I know thats a drainage problem and we took the hoses and everything and cleaned them out. Its amazing all the stuff we found in there...lots of small sticks from my son's pockets I guess... anyway, its STILL stopping and flashing f21. I have to restart it on the drain and rinse cycle to get it to finish...any ideas??

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Posted on Sep 27, 2010


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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017


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a chebby Isuzu? LOL
your info is lacikng,
what is wrong? , always post what dont work, or the symptoms
my wild guess, is your car like mine a manual transmission
and the clutch pedal is messed up, right,?
on mine you remove the connector , unscrew it , replace it
and do the calibration. steps in the FSM.

what part of the steps, do you get stuck, (finding it or the cal part)

the steps are here to,
log in and read them.
or tell where stuck.? (point) can look it up for you,if need be.

Jun 17, 2014 | 1994 Isuzu Pickup


Hello jsrock516, I've followed your posting step by step. Readings were as...

This advice is for all ELECTRIC Dryers that have a "No Heat" problem.

Symptom: Dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat.

Any of the following components are more than likely suspect as being bad:

Heating Element
Thermal Cut-Out
Hi-Limit Thermostat

All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.

If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.

If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.

Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side. If this is a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet, the lower lick panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the panel. (HINT: placing a block of wood under the front feet of the dryer can make access much easier). If your dryer has no lower kick panel, you have to remove the entire front panel on these models. This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.

NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:

Heating Element (located inside heater box) – remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.

If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.

I hope this information is helpful to you. If you need further assistance, please go to my profile at: and use the "Ask Me" feature for a quicker repsonse to your questions/comments.

on Dec 30, 2008 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

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If you read through the posts, there are many ideas on what to do. The cheapest and easiest way I found to fix a broken hinge is to follow one the ideas in the posts. I wrote a detailed post step-by-step. In quick summary, I broke the other hinge and removed all the broken pieces to both, so the lid would lay flat again. Printer doesn't care if the hinges are not there. The manual is on line: Hope It's resolve all Your Printer Problem,
Or Still having Problem Then follow Us For

HP Support

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Guide rail assembly replacement.deaquino.ray@

Hello, Welcome to FixYa. I just saw your post while following up on another clients Asko, sorry you've had to wait a couple of days but I can help now. I'm presently on my iphone as it is the only internet service I have for now, and I cannot post images through this device, however if you copy & paste the address I provided here it will direct you to a post of mine that will guide you step by step fairly thoroughly on "how to". Regards, Macmarkus :)

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I read on here about fixing the non spinning

It is the laser. The diode goes bad and the laser dont read games. We are a listed repair service on this site.
We can fix this for you for a lot less then if you sent it to Sony and you would have it back in a few days instead of weeks.

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Are you running Windows XP?

I recently had a customer with a similar problem on an XP desktop; I tried all sorts of fixes before finding the answer in an online forum - it was a problem with the 'Software Enumerator' see the link below and look for a post by 'Jurekos'

Or follow the summarised steps below:


1. Check if PnP SW Enumerator is installed on your machine (Device Manager / System devices) - it should be listed there!

2. If it is not there then we will probably solve it!

3. Locate "machine.inf" on your OS, copy it somewhere and modify it as follows:
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4. Check the "machine.inf" file for location where SWENUM should be located (mine was reading: SWENUM.CoInstallers.CopyFiles = 11 ; %windir%\System32)

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6. Go to Control Panel /Add Hardware and follow the wizard towards manual selection of device to be added

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If it still does not work reinstall the audio adapters' drivers

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I used the strong magnet suggestion and it WORKED!!!! mike

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Cd drive

This could be due to a common issue. I would suggest you try this method first.

The following is a link to the Microsoft documented solution for issues with DVD/CD drives, explaining a step-by-step procedure. In the event that the first process, which is automated labeled "Fix It" does not solve your problem, please continue to the end of the document.

After completing this procedure, please let us know if you are still experiencing any issues by posting a comment.

If this information was helpful, please take a moment to rate the solution. Thank you

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This could be due to a common issue. I would suggest you try this method first.

The following is a link to the Microsoft documented solution for issues with DVD/CD drives, explaining a step-by-step procedure. In the event that the first process, which is automated labeled "Fix It" does not solve your problem, please continue to the end of the document.

After completing this procedure, please let us know if you are still experiencing any issues by posting a comment. If this information was helpful, please take a moment to rate the solution. Thank you.

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Well, I was HOPING that your problem was simply caused by a burned-out bulb, but since you can see a BRIGHT light when you use the scanner, the bulb is WORKING, and it is NOT the cause of your problem... Unfortunately, the only other known cause of "black scans" for your Microtek S400 scanner requires you to follow a rather complicated procedure to correct the problem, so I am in the process of typing detailed instructions for you to follow. I will post them here as an addditional comment as soon as I finish typing them, and hopefully, they will help to guide you through this process. I am posting this now simply so you will know that I am still working on helping you to resolve this; according to the Microtek Knowledge Base, there are several steps you MUST follow exactly in order to eliminate the cause of the black scans, so I ask for your continued patience while I finish my research into your problem. The instructions Microtek provides seem somewhat complicated, so hopefully, the instructions I'll post here will help you to understand the steps Microtek requires you to follow to correct this problem. Again, the solution to your problem requires that you follow several specific steps (Step 1 through Step 10), in order, depending on which version of the Scan Wizard software is installed on your system, so I will post more information here that should help to guide you through the entire process. If the first solution Microtek suggests does NOT correct your problem (following Steps 1 through 10), you will have to follow Step 11 in order to complete the process of removing the Scan Wizard software. Obviously, such a multi-step process will require a good deal of patience, and attention to details, which is why I'm trying to simplify the entire process for you... I'll post the steps here as soon as I finish typing them; please read through them, and if you have any questions for me, post them here, and I will try to answer them for you BEFORE you begin following the multi-step repair process... After seeing all of the steps involved in correcting this problem, I'm thinking of changing my screen name to ScannerHater...

Apr 01, 2007 | Microtek ScanMaker s400

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