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My dryer (Maytag LDE7500) has melted the wire that is on the dryer element twice now. I've replaced the high limit thermostat and the heating element. I've tested the thermal fuse, high limit switch and cycling thermostat for continuity and all check out okay. I replaced my old plastic flex vent hose with metal duct tubing and there are no obstructions in the vent. Any ideas on what is causing this wire to overheat, to melt and disconnect? Thank you for your assistance.

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  • marka19
    marka19 Sep 27, 2010

    Have you checked all wire connections. If any of the wire connections are not tight a loose wire could cause excessive heat. I would mainly check the wire connections at the heating element itself.

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check your door switch.

Posted on Mar 19, 2009

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aasc
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SOURCE: Whirlpool duet electric wil not heat

Remove 1 wire from the element . Your 220 V comes from ...110 motor , 110 control board . Check which wire is not getting 110 V , trace it and see which it comes from . That will tell you which one is defective .

Posted on Aug 01, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Maytag Performa PYE2200AYW Dryer Heats intermittently

i had the same problem with my dryer and i installed the wrong thermal fuse for gas dryer which calls for a pink thermal fuse in which i installed and it works fine also check the lint in the front of your dryer. also my dryer which is the same make as yours seems will run on the fluff cycle until i replaced the right thermal fuse. my dryer run exceptionally hot and eventally shut down and it only run on the fluff cycle for any length of time.

Posted on Sep 22, 2009

milten1
  • 1304 Answers

SOURCE: Replacing a heating element on Maytag Electric Dryer

Hank,
if you have all those parts , i would indeed replace them all. it will allow your entire heating circuit to strat fresh
just ensure all your paddle connections are tight
but check your heater for continuity too

Posted on Oct 21, 2009

Testimonial: "Thanks, I'll replace everything! "

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SOURCE: Maytag Neptune Dryer Model #MDE4000AYW

It is dangerous to do but you have to turn dryer on while it is apart and wait for limit to open up, then test. !st make sure all connections are ok. The clips and the nuts all need to be tight. If any look dark or burnt that may be your weak link. If you are sure that everything is else is working ok, a set of high limit switches is not very expensive. The voltage is 220 so if your careful you can test at each junction, but be careful..

Posted on Sep 18, 2010

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1 Answer

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Where would the fuse be and how hard to get to, is it in the upper unit? From behind? or lower unit? Running but no heat.


The problem is obviously in the heating circuit which is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The most common part that causes the dryer not to heat is the thermal cut-off and/or the high-limit thermostat. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components.

Disconnect power then access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

jahn27_42.jpg
Dryers with lint filter on the front.

jahn27_43.jpg
Dryers with lint filter on the top.

Also bypass the cycling thermostat if the dryer still doesn't heat with the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Check the heating element visually for obvious broken or damaged coil. An ohmmeter will be of great help in checking the resistance/continuity of the heating element. Replace the heating element if broken or damaged, NEVER attempt to repair it.

The problem is likely in the motor centrifugal switch if the dryer still doesn't heat with good heating element and the three components above bypassed. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

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You can bypass the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat for troubleshooting purposes. Join together the wires of each part and insulate it properly then reconnect power. The two components indeed need to be replaced if the dryer heats up. If not and still no power to the heating element, check the continuity of the heating circuit. Check the continuity/resistance of the heating element if there's power to its terminals but doesn't heat. Replace the heating element if it reads open.

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jahn27_43.jpg

Also bypass the cycling thermostat if the dryer still doesn't heat up with the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat both bypassed. If the dryer still doesn't heat up, take the heating element out and inspect it for damage. Replace the heating element if damaged.

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jahn27_42.jpg
Dryers with lint filter on the front.

jahn27_43.jpg
Dryers with lint filter on the top.

Also bypass the cycling thermostat if the dryer still doesn't heat with the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Check the heating element visually for obvious broken or damaged coil. An ohmmeter will be of great help in checking the resistance/continuity of the heating element. Replace the heating element if broken or damaged, NEVER attempt to repair it.

The problem is likely in the motor centrifugal switch if the dryer still doesn't heat with good heating element and the three components above bypassed. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.


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5027e52.jpg

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