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Richard, It is important to know if the compressor itself is running. If there is a loose connection to the compressor via the start/over load relay (normally attaches directly onto the compressor), or if the start/over load otself is bad the compressor will not run. Best way to tell is via gauges but I doubt your frig has ports. Check to see if your compressor is really hot. Could be bad start/over load relay or bad compressor. Try unplugging your frig for say 30 min then, with your hand on top of a cool compressor, plug the frig back in and see if compressor smoothly vibrates for at least 5 min without becoming very hot or shutting off even though fan continues to run. The fact your fan is running TYPICALLY means the thermostat is calling for lower temps and the fan/compressor kick in together.
There is seldom a means by which the refrigerant can be isolated in this type of system. Moveover, since the system has had a leak, the refrigerant in the system is no longer usable. It is made of HFC-125, HFC-32 and HFC-134a in specific proportions. When a leak occurs, these components will leak at separate rates and the remaining refrigerant (if any is left) is no longer capable of doing the work of a virgin refrigerant.
Refrigeration flare fittings are 45° and are made with special tools. While there are 'washers' that can be inserted into the fitting when it's exposed, they are not that effective all the time. Remember that the pressure at the condenser part of the system can well exceed 300 psig.
The refrigerant, Genetron 407C, is the replacement for HFC-22. It has no 'replacement' per se.
It's my opinion that this is an issue for a reputable HVAC technician, and not a homeowner. To do the job properly, you would need a new filter/drier, flaring tool and torch if the line is not long enough for it to be re-flared and reconnected, vacuum pump and virgin refrigerant. I would bet that the location of the leak is such that the system is all but flat at this time, and you need a precisely measured amount of refrigerant to re-charge the system.
If you've not yet done so, TURN THE SYSTEM OFF to protect the compressor from damage.
There can be many reasons why your refrigerator is freezing your food. To see what could be happening and to figure out how to possibly fix your problem. Take a look at this tip which contains many of the causes and solutions to fix the problems.
The R134 sorry to say, should not be sold to the public.
They required a licence to buy R12 ,R22 Etc but not 134
What you do or did was let air into the system,when you hooked up the short hose. There was air in it. Now it is in the system
Also the only way to charge any A/C system,not just vehicles,is to recover all refrigerent,repair leaks,pull a vacuum,check to see if it holds,them charge to thje required oz or weight. You have know way of knowing what was in the system when you started. If you had to add you have a leak. Now you put holes in the atmosphere and help out global warming.
Not trying to be cute here,just referencing how refrigerant physics works.
You can not push in what dupont calls freon,even under pressure, unless you heat it,so it changes state at some point. Has to go in under a vacuum.
You need to pull a vacuum now, to remove the air.
While you can compress air,you CAN NOT compress the water vapor in it. In fact you can damage you compressor.
It sounds as though you have a clogged capillary tube, cannot be sure without suction and liquid line pressures and temps but if you can, ask the tech if the suction pressure seemed to be low, if so, replace the capillary tube with the proper length and diameter tube, replace the liquid line dryer and pull a GOOD vacuum on the system and recharge it, refering to the rating plate for the proper amount and type of refrigerant.
things you need(to do it properly) vacuum pump,r134a gauges and leak detection of some sort first locate lowside port connect blue connector from gauge to it (lowside is the skinny hose)connect vacuum pump to yellow line open valve on blue guage manifold. pull a vacuum to less than 30" hg for thirty minutes.close bluevalve on manifold watch needle make sure pressure doen't rise if no change in pressure after 15 minutes no leak.if pressure does rise then you have a leak and need to find it.(cheap/messy way use get a can of 134 with dye in it fill system and let it run look for dye on system usually on pump around back of clutch,unless you replaced a compnent recently then check all fittings and seals.) you will add r134a through the yellow hose.
Depending upon the way you charge it you could introduce air into the system. The lines need to be bleed before charging to make sure the refrigerant is in the charge lines and not air. Most folks that do not do this for a living make that mistake.
With air in a 134 system problems will abound. The only way to really charge a system is to use a vacuum pump to pull it down then charge to the correct lever in ounces as provided on the label of the refrigerant u purchase
This type of work is normally performed by a certified technician. System refrigerant must be recovered prior to working on the system. After refrigerant is recovered from the system the lines can be removed from the compressor stub tubes by heating up to the flow point of the solder used. Number 15 silver solder has a flow point of 1385°F. Re-brazing the lines to the replacement compressor is best done after cleaning the line and using a small amount of flux. I use #45 silver solder to connect the lines to the compressors on a replacement. Flow point of #45 is 1185°F. The system filter/dryer should be replaced. After all connections are made a vacuum must be drawn on the system to remove air and none condensible gases and moisture. Refrigerant charge is critical on these system and should be weight in according the the amount stated on the name plate.