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Is the amp switching on? There are two 12v wires that have to be connected. One from a direct constant 12v supply source, and the other one from the ignition switch 12v source.Find a single 12v. supply which you can take from the lighter connection and then trace a 12v wire that runs from your ignition switch. This is mentioned in the amp manual.Double check. If the amp is coming on but no sound, then your wire connections from the amp are not correct.Or you have also connected the speaker wires incorrectly.Remmember not to connect the earth of the speaker wires to the direct earth(body of the car) but to the earth wires that are shown in the manual as this could blow the amp power IC. The earth wires of the speakers are marked -- and + respectfully and are also colour coded.You should have a RCA female plug connector from your amp to the subs. Check everything double and if still no luck their is a possibility that you could have blown an IC in the amp from wrongly connected wires. Hope this is not the case.
NO!!NO!!NO!! Dont hook up just a sub to rca outputs. they run at around 2-3 volts and maybe 1 watt. the difference in the settings is for a sub amp(sub) or a amp for mids and highs (amp). the only way you will not need to run an amplifier is if you get a powered subwoofer, as these already have an amp built in.
Depending on the PA FUBAR you have. The voice coil on those subs are DVC. Dual Voice Coil. You need to know a couple things. What kind of amp are you going to run on it. And what is the resistance (OHM) rating of each voice coil. MY two 12's are dual 4 ohm. Meaning that there are essentially 4 speakers to hook up. My amp currently is not 2 ohm stable in bridged. So what I did is run each speaker in parallel (red2red,black2black) then run to the box terminal. So now the dual 4 ohm voice coils are basically 2 ohm. I have 2 speakers. Now I hook the box up in series. To bring the now two 2 ohm speakers into one 4 ohm speaker. This is called series/parallel setup. My amp sees this box as 1 channel @ 4ohms. The downfall to this is the output of the amp is divided up into each speaker. So instead of sending all 1400 watts to one sub. I will send 700 to each sub. But here is a catch. even though each speaker is half the total wattage it will still be 3db louder. Meaning it will be as loud as 1 sub running 1400 watts. To conclude i need to know how many of those subs you are going to run on the amp.. And the model number of the amp so I can match up your wiring.
the problem sounds like your new sub is drawing to much power and your amp can not handle it. bridging the amp is a good way to get the full power out of your amp. But it isnt always suggested, my solution is to get a bigger amp. I install stereo systems for a living, and i tell my customers that it is smart to get an amp about 100 more watts then the rms rating of your subwoofer.
Check the 12v wire running from the battery to the amplifier. Also the sony explode is a garbage subwoofer compared to the Alpine.. sony (they say 1200w max but its more like 100w to power the thing) Amp could be going. Is the amplifier hot when running. If there is a burnt smell comming from the amp, its the amplifier
Run the subs in series then bridge the amp. So run the normal + to - to the one sub then hook up a spare wire (not connected to the amp) to the same + and - connections. Then run the spare wire to the + and - of the other sub. This will tie the 2 together so you can bridge the ampfor more power instead of using 2 seperate channels.
Based on your description and on the idea of a single amp, then your plan of hooking up both the subwoofers in series (to get 8 ohms) would be the safest as against running the subs in parallel (2 ohms). This way the sub amp would not be overly loaded, you can compensate the slight loss in power by strategically positioning the 2 subs. A friendly reminder, pls observe polarity when hooking the sub speakers.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.
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