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Does the F & P E372b have a heater element. A technician has said I need a new heater element. He seems full of it if you ask me.

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Hi just read your posting.Unfortunately your refrigerator has a defrost heating element.Does your machine ice up a lot? The defrost element is located around your evaporator coils.Hope this information helps.Good luck with the machine.

Posted on Sep 27, 2010

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Can I buy a heating element for this heater?


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Jan 19, 2016 | Patton PQH307UM Electric Utility Heater

1 Answer

I would like to know the electrical requirements.( voltage and amperage) Does it plug in or is it hard wired? If the power goes out is the hot water also out? thankyou


Are you asking about tankless gas or tankless electric?

You posted under Tankless gas water heater: gas type tankless plugs into standard 120Volt household outlet to power circuit board. You need larger gas line than used for tank-type gas water heater.

If you are asking about volt and amp draw of Tankless electric, then that depends on specific model number.
For example, if each tankless element draws 3500Watts, and unit has 3 elements, you will need 3 additional 20 amp 240Volt circuit breakers. Volts x amps = watts. 3500 watts divided by 240Volts = 14.58 amps. At full blast, this unit would draw 43.75 amps and will cost more to operate yearly than tank-type electric water heater. If unit has 4500 watts elements, then it will draw 56 amps at full blast, and use a good percentage of household power.

Tankless water heaters have no hot water in power outage. This is true for gas and electric models.

Additional resources:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Compare-water-heater-parts-650.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/pro-n-con.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Bradford-White-on-demand-tankless-service-manual.pdf

Aug 04, 2011 | Bosch 1600H-NG Natural Gas AquaStar...

1 Answer

Whirlpool 40 gallon energy smart elecrtic water heater. The control board binks once, by the panel means system start up failure,but we still have hot water,but every time we use the hot water it starts...


The evidence points to a control malfunction.
Call Whirlpool for assistance: 1-877-817-6750
You will need your model number and serial number located on label on side of tank.
Serial number is required because models change as the technology evolves.

Open following link to read product details about the Energy Smart, and download typical manual.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Whirlpool-Energy-Smart-electric.html

Note: Energy Smart water heater requires 10 gauge wire and 30 amp breaker.

Typical energy smart manual shows: 1 flash is start-up error, which indicates 'Power ON with no water in tank.'
This is not possible because at least the upper element would burn out, if not both elements.
If upper element burns out, this water heater will not make any hot water, since it is wired for ordinary non-simultaneous operation.
There cannot be air inside the tank since your hot water faucet is not spewing air.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-it-works.html

Also be aware that model numbers change.
Read following account of fellow who replaced control board on his 4-year-old energy smart, and how he discovered wires are reversed on newer control boards. Be sure to ask Whirlpool about this possibility, in the event they say control board is faulty and send you new board:
http://www.fixya.com/support/t8263226-our_water_heater_doing

Feb 27, 2011 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

Purchased "Reliance Lowboy electric water heater"


The water heater has two 4500 watt elements.
However both elements are not turned-ON at same time
So the water heater is 4500 Watts

Volts x Amps = watts
Amps =watts divided by volts
Amps = 4500 Watts divided by 240 Volts
Amps= 18.75

So that says a 20 amp breaker ... except for the 80% rule
80% rules says for safety, your Amp rating should be multiplied by 80%

20 amp breaker X 80% = 16 amps
20 amp breaker is actually safe for just 16 amps, and your water heater draws 18.75 amps.

The calculation shows you need a 30 Amp breaker.
30 Amp breaker requires 10 gauge wire.

http://waterheatertimer.org/Figure-Volts-Amps-Watts-for-water-heater.html

Nov 02, 2010 | RELIANCE ELECTRIC WATER HEATER

1 Answer

I'm trying to change the elements on my water heater. I've broken the seal loose on the elements but it seems that it's bent & I can't remove it. What can I do?


You have an element on your water heater.
Your element will not come out.
If it's a Rheem product, the element is held with 4 bolts.
Other brands have a screw-in type element.

Here's a page I wrote about removing stuck screw-in type elements.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-remove-old-water-heater-element.html

I don't know if this information applies to your situation.
If the heater is full of sediment it might keep element from coming out, but that would seem unlikely.
Look at the photo instructions shown on the link above.

Oct 2010
If you want to follow through with more help, add a comment at bottom of this fixya page.
You can post an image of your problem so I can see it, by following steps shown in link below
http://www.fixya.com/support/r6568559-post_photograph_fixya_questions_answers

Oct 28, 2010 | Rheem 50 GAL ELEC TALL Water Heater 6YR SC...

1 Answer

Hot water gong cold


Hi .. sounds like the upper thermostat control on yyour water heater needs to be replaced. This could be a DIY project. turn power off and swap the wires from the old tstat to the new tstat. Be sure to have the tstat mounted so the back is in full contact with the metal mater tank.

Apr 27, 2010 | RELIANCE ELECTRIC WATER HEATER

3 Answers

Water heater keeps popin the breaker replaces breaker still no good. new heater just installed all wires are good


I assume this is a 240 volt water heater that runs on a 30 amp circuit. Read the instructions that came with the new water heater to be sure. If the wires are connected correctly then you have a defective water heater. Let's first make sure it is wired correctly. Turn the breaker off and take a look at it. It must be a 30 Amp breaker and the wires going to the water heater must be 10/2 with ground. This is an orange wire. If you cannot see the water heater from the service panel it must be wired to a disconnect box. Look at the breaker and make sure the red & black wires are tightly connected to the double pole breaker and the copper wire is connected to the ground bar. At the disconnect box (if applicable) the red/black wires from the service panel must be connect to LINE and ground to ground bar. The wire going to the water heater from the disconnect box is connected to LOAD. It is easy to get these mixed up because they are not always in the same location and are hard to read on some disconnect boxes. Look carefully and make sure they are correct. At the water heater you connect Black to Black and Red to Red. Make sure the ground is connected tightly and none of the wires are touching each other. Use wire nuts and then tape the connections with electrical tape. You should not have applied power to the water heater until it was full of water. If you did then your burnt out the electrodes. I would suspect you have a short somewhere or the water heater is defective.

Dec 10, 2009 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

New heaters need to do a start up or testing for proper operation model f2f5103n TPI corp. Industrial type heater


When you are ready to test run the unit you should take an amperage draw reading on the elements.
The formula to see if the elements are drawing the correct amps is: (voltage x amps=watts) example: If a heating element is 1500 watts and your voltage is 120 volts, then your amps will be 12.5 amps. (120v x 12.5A=1500W)
The easiest way to check amp draw is with a clamp on amp meter.

Nov 24, 2009 | Fahrenheat Ceiling-Mount Industrial Heater...

1 Answer

I have a GE side by side refrigerator that keeps blowing the defrost heater element. MODEL # TFT22JWDA WW SERIAL # TZ264141 I bought it from a GE dealer about 5-6 years ago. It ran fine for 3 years,...


In my GE side-by-side there is a defrost temp sensor located near the top of the evaporator coil. I think the control board uses that temp sensor to know when it should be done defrosting.

On the schematic of my fridge (link below), the defrost thermistor is part number 240 in the diagram (not part number 241, which is a different temp sensor located adjacent to the one you want)

http://www.partselect.com/ModelFrames.aspx?ModelID=361233&ModelNum=GSS20IEMDWW&mfgModelNum=&ManufactureID=2&Selected=00113321i06&Position=2&mfg=GE&Type=&Mark=2

I don't know why the defrost element would fail immediately other than incorrect supply voltage or just a bad defrost element.

Jul 28, 2009 | Refrigerators

2 Answers

E372B FISHER & PAYKEL FRIDGE WARM


I'd say you most likely need a new defrost element and evaporator Chassis. You'll most likely find there's a big lump of ice behind the evaporator chassis in the freezer inturn blocking the fridge vent or the defrost element is burnt out icing up te Evaporator. It pays to replace both anyway you'll need to unplug the unit and leave the doors opens for 48hrs to defrost it first. cheers

May 16, 2009 | Fisher Refrigerators

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