Question about Refrigerators
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: We have a Kenmore Coldspot
It is probably your defrost cycle causing this. Obviously if you shut the water line off then it is not coming from there so there is only 1 other place it could be. Every 8, 10, or 12 hours depending on you defrost timer the refrigerator will defrost itself.......the frost melts into water and drains into a pan under the fridge. If the drain is plugged then it will just run into the refrigerator. If you have a freezer on top model then just remove the back wall inside the freezer, it will be a few 1/4 inch screws....If you have an icemaker then remove that too, it will be held on with 3 screws. Just look behind that wall and you will probably see ice at the bottom.....defrost the ice and pour a cup or 2 of water into the drain to make sure it is unclogged. If it is still plugged up then you have to find the clog....either in the back of the fridge behind the lower cover or in the refrig compartment near the back of the roof.
Posted on Sep 12, 2009
Your evaporator coils frost up in normal use
and every eight hours or so the entire unit shuts down and the defrost heater
comes on to melt the frost. This cycle last about 20 minutes. The melted frost
drips into a drain pan and through a drain tube to the drain tray under the
freezer/refrigerator where it's evaporated by the condenser fan.
Your drain tube may be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey baster will usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Make sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing. . The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on the lower back of the freezer.
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
If you need help finding your model number see here> http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
To locate your timer, motherboard, control or adaptive defrost control , enter your model number and search for the part or post back on Fixya.
Posted on Oct 01, 2009
Remove the food and the ice maker from the freezer ( if equiped ) . Remove the rear freezer panel . Using a hair dryer , start in the middle , below the coils , defrosting , until you see the drain hole . Use hot water to help defrost the hole . Once water starts going thru the hole , use a small hose inserted into the hole , and blow thru , to remove any unseen debris in the drain line . Use an ALUMINUM or Copper solid wire , ( a ground wire or fence post tie ) 14-16 guage , with the insulation completely off , and insert one end into the drain hole as far as possible without any force . Wrap the other end about 1 1/2 to 2 turns , around the black rod (defrost heater) , above the hole . When refrig goes into defrost , the heat will transfer from the heater , to the wire , keeping the hole from freezing up again .
Posted on May 05, 2010
SOURCE: Hi, I have a 2003 Kenmore
In the recent models, the fridge defrosts automatically,
once or twice a day, and the water is supposed to drain
down a long drain tube into a pan located at the bottom of
the fridge. This collected water in the pan evaporates
by the heat under the fridge.
Now the drain tube can get clogged, by food debris and/or
ice. Thus when the water cannot drip through the drain tube
the water drips inside the fridge.
The drain tube is located behind the fridge, which is pretty
easy to take it out and clean. However usually the clog is
not in the long tube but in the connector assembly located
in the backside of the fridge that leads to the long drain tube.
To get to the connector assemble, you need to unscrew and
take out the back panel of the freezer compartment. You would
see the evaporator coil and a tray under the coil where the water
is supposed to drip through. If you find the tray completely frozen
with ice, let it melt off. To speed up melting, you may blow
hot air via a hair dryer. Once the ice is clear, you should see
a drain hole in the middle of the tray. This could be clogged,
which needs to be unclogged.
Next unscrew and open the thermostat control assembly located
in the inside of the back of the refrigerator compartment just above
the light bulb fixture. Once you take the take the cover off (you will
also have to take the knobs out) you will see a small tray cup about
2" x 2" x 1/2" into which water from the top freezer compartment
drain hole is supposed to drain. Pull out the tray cup, and if clogged,
unclog it, clean it and put it back.
To check if the drain works ok, pour some water on the tray
under the evaporator coil (top freezer compartment) and see if it
immediately drains into the tray located at the bottom of the fridge
at the floor level. If it does, you got it; and you can assemble things
back in the reverse order you took the pieces apart.
Needless to say, use a vacuum cleaner with a long suction tube to clean
out all the collected mess under the fridge. No matter how good
your housekeeping is, the bottom of the fridge will be full of dust.
Hope this helpout.......
Posted on Jul 29, 2010
Have you tried adjusting the freezer temperature to a higher level? This worked for my Kenmore. It will take a couple of days to quit leaking.
Posted on Dec 19, 2010
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