- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The typical 'summer/winter' switch is an added switch associated with OLD heating systems back in the 50's and 60's before central air conditioning became common in homes. I doubt that your new furnace had one installed because you can accomplish the same thing by switching the fan on at the thermostat sub-base. That is, of course, providing you have a subbase with 'fan-on-auto' on it.
As I understand your question, you have a boiler with a 'summer/winter' hookup for domestic hot water.
Your boiler should run all the time, i.e. not be shut off by you. Your boiler provides hot water for baseboard heat in your home ... possibly through several 'zones' each controlled by an individual thermostat and circulator. Yours may be a steam system. If this is the case, you have radiators not radiant baseboard heaters and no circulators.
Your summer/winter hookup provides a constant supply of domestic hot water. It does this by taking cold water from your water main and passing it through a copper coil which sits inside your boiler and then to your hot water main in your home. Since the coil sits in the hot water at the top of the boiler, it is constantly being heated. This coil may be in a deteriorated condition in your case or it may be too small for your needs.
Several years ago, I did a small upgrade to my mid 1950's era American Standard boiler. The summer winter hookup in my case was mounted on a 4 inch cast iron boiler plug. The coil was 12 feet long (folded up to a package about 1 foot long). I was very afraid when the plumber came in with what amounted to a 10 foot long pipe wrench. My fear was I would have a pile of broken cast iron at the end of the day. All is well that ends well. He got the old one out and replaced it with a coil that consisted of 20 feet of copper tubing 3/4 inch in size (the folded tubing was about 20 inches long and fit nicely into the boiler). We now have all the hot water a household consisting of one guy and three gals would need in all but the extremest of times..
I think you r answer is here ... replace your summer/winter coil with a new, bigger coil.
Something else I did. My kitchen is 60 feet (pipe wise) from the boiler. It takes a long time to get hot water there. I put in a small electric hot water heater just under the kitchen. I put a timer on it so it runs for a couple hours in the morning and a few hours in the afternoon. The hot water line from the boiler serves as the cold water input to the heater. I now enjoy the convenience of quick hot water in the kitchen with the relatively low cost of oil heated water from the boiler as a relatively small cost of electricity.
My winter settings are 160 - 200 and my summer settings are 120 - 150 which seems adequate for our needs.
Thanks for your question at FixYa.com. I hope I have been of assistance to you today.
Standard 87 octane is all that car requires. You will gain no benefit from using mid or top grade fuel.
Most passenger car tires are run between 32 and 35 psi, regardless of season. You can look at the side of the tire to find what the max cold psi pressure is. You will normally find that it is 35psi.
As for summer/winter tires. If the wobble only happens when the snow tires are installed, and not with the summer tires, that obviously eliminates the car as being the problem. Do you have your summer and winter tires mounted on different sets of wheels, or do you swap the tires every season on the same wheels?
If they are on different sets of wheels, then the winter tires are out of balance, have some sort of damage to the carcass of the tires, or you have a bent wheel. If you are using the same wheels and swapping the tires every season, then you need to have your winter tires balanced and see if it solves the problem.
The blower has absolutely nothing to do with outdoor air. Having the T-Stat set to auto lets the blower come on only when the A/C-heat comes on. With the switch in the ON position the blower simply runs all of the time. Depending on your living space (high ceilings, multi-level) having the blower on constantly while costing a small amount to run can actually save some money and make you more comfortable in the summer. However most people will leave it in auto in the winter so they don't feel as if they have a draft from the air movement as the blower is in high speed in fan on position and cool modes and low speed in heat mode. Many furnaces today are equipped with a setting that allows the blower to run constantly at a lower speed or simply run for a min. or two after the A/C=Heat have turned off.