I have had my washer for less than two years and yesterday it stopped at the rinse cycle. It is full of water and will not drain or spin. It only clicks like the agitator is trying to agitate but appears stuck.
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Re: washer estate brand ETW4300SQ Model
If the washer fills and stops at the rinse cycle, and then
will not spin or drain, you more than likely have a defective lid switch.
If you open and close the washer lid and do not hear a “clicking” sound, the
switch has probably come loose, or has broken.There are two mounting screws that hold the switch in place along the
washer rim.Also, inspect the lid to
ensure the small plastic piece that pushes down on the switch when the lid is
closed has not broken off.This is
called the “lid strike”.If the lid
strike is broken or missing, the lid switch will not activate.If you diagnose the problem and need to
replace the switch, you can click on the following link for advice on how to replace
a 6ya Repairman can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Repairman (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
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WASHER WILL NOT RINSE:
If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle, the most likely cause is the water valve. What happens is the water valve will stop letting cold water into the washer; therefore, once the washer gets to rinse it will either stop or not do anything during the whole rinse cycle.
This is because when you selected your water temperature, you selected warm/cold or hot/cold. The hot water came in and you didn't notice any problems. When it got to rinse, the cold water the cold water won't come in. Therefore, the washer does nothing.
To check the water valve, first cut the water off and remove the hoses off the back of the washer. Then one at a time point the hoses inside the washer tub and turn the water back on. If you don't have good water pressure, turn the water back off and remove the strainer that should be in one end of the hose. Inspect the strainer to see if it is stopped up, clean it and reinstall it. Now repeat this test. If you have good water pressure now, reinstall hose and your problem is fixed.
If you still don't have good water pressure, the problem is in your house plumbing and you need to call a plumber. If you had good water pressure the first time you performed the test, the water valve is bad and needs replacing.
If your washer doesn't go through the washer rinse cycle the timer may be the problem. Sometimes the timer gets stuck in the middle of the cycle or won't turn at all. If the washer runs, but the timer doesn't turn, the timer is bad and needs replacing.
Do you have anti-flood hoses leading to the machine. If you do there is probably a loose tube in the back causing a small leak. When the hoses detect that water is still flowing after a certain amount of time due to the leak it shuts down and causes the machine to turn off during the rinse/spin cycle
I have had similar situation with my top load washer over the years. It has been the timer 3 times and the water pump 1 time.
How I came up with it being the timer. The knob which you set it on the type wash you want. Put it on a different cycle and see if it completes the wash cycle. example if my washer is not working when I put it on heavy wash cycle I might put it on the casual wash cycle. If you change the wash cycle and it goes through the complete cycle it is probably the timer which is part of the knob you change for different wash cycles with.
If it stops when it is time to empty the tub on all cycles it may be the water pump which empties the tub. The one time I had a problem with the water pump it was a small piece of coal had the pump locked up. I never figured how it got out of the tub and to the pump but I put it back together and it worked fine.
It should not go into the spin cycle if the tub is full of water.
Two of the timers I bought cost 40 - 60 dollars. One was 140 dollars I bought a new washer that time because the washer only cost 220 dollars.
Sounds like the motor may be bad but the only way to know for sure is to do some electrical testing with a volt/ohm meter and the wiring diagram located within the appliance. If possible use the meter and the wiring diagram to check input/output voltages looking for discrepancies between the diagram and the actual meter readings.