The main fan broke down, which is apparantly common, and I had good luck hard-wiring it to an external DC power source - but, after putting the beast back together, I'm not getting any image. The bulb comes on, the fans work perfectly, and I've double checked my reassembly for loose wires. Everything, but no InFocus screen or image from video sources. Has anyone else had this problem? Any ideas would be helpful!
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Its been along time since I worked an LP70. But if you can remove the top cover, look to see if there a green wire soldered directly to the main board on a yellow/orangish block looking thing and then leading to the underside of the power supply. If you see this then the ground upgrade was done to this unit. If you have a black cable screwed to the top of the main board or nothing at all then it will need the modification or a new power supply. Also if any of the fans are not working this will cause premature shutdown. Sometimes if the top is not put on properly it will push down on the plastic surrounding the double fan and will cause the unit to shut down because the fan can't spin. The best way to determine a ground vs. a fan issue is to test the unit with the top off. If you see the fans are running and it shuts down then it is likely a ground issue. If you do in fact see that the unit has had the upgrade and runs fine with the top off, before you put the top back on break off the 3 fins inside the underside of the top and make sure the dual fan cable is routed properly thru the little slot in the top of the fan housing. Good luck.
to replace the colorwheel: remove the 4 brass and 4 silver screws from the bottom and the 2 silver screws from the back. through the top vent on the back panel and using a flat head screwdriver, unclip the 3 clips holding the back panel on. once removed, unplug the 2 wire harnesses. remove the top and front panel. now unplug the large wire harness and remove all the brass screws on the 2 power supply boards (also the screw for the ground wire). there is a black clip in the middle of the larger power board. remove the boards. now remove the brass screws holding the metal plate on. once removed, unplug the flat ribbon cable (for the colorwheel). now facing the front end, remove the lamp and the 4 screws holding the lamp housing (with fans) on to the bottom case. remove the tiny black screw on the small circuit board and remove the board. now you can get to the colorwheel. there are 2 small black screws holding the bracket. pull the ribbon cable through from under the fan. replace with new colorwheel and reverse the instructions. the only difference, remove the front panel from the top by undoing the clips. good luck!
there is a problem with the power to the front fan from the main board. there are 3 wires going to the fans: one power, one return, and one signal. if the main board reads no signal from the fan's speed, it'll shut down. check the power going to the fans and the signal. you may need to replace the main board.
the high-pitched sound is the colorwheel trying to spin up to speed. that may need to be replaced. check the inside of the lamp for bulges, black spots, fogging or flaking. if it has any of those, replace the lamp. you can get parts from an infocus service center or send it to them for repair. either way, try www.avsolutionsny.com they're really good. if you want to replace it yourself, there is a detailed step-by-step on my "tips" area. it's the same as the infocus x1, x2, x3 and sp4805. click on my picture and scroll down to tips. good luck!
I had the same problem after purchasing a new bulb. My husband pulled it out after it would not fire up and the new bulb plug in conecter (white with 4 holes with two wires) was different. Take your old bulb and compair the two conecters and see if they match, then check if the wires are in the same slots as in first and last. Mine on the new one were in the first and second to last slot. So we took the wire out of the second to last and put it in the last slot and installed it and it fixed the problem. We also had to unplug and replug it in and do a master reset by pressing the Power and Channel buttons and the same time for 15sec. Hope this helps.
the fans in these models do not have a speed sensor wire to let the main board know to turn off the lamp to not risk overheating. so if the fan goes, the lamp remains on. however, if the lamp exploded, check the vents for dust. there is a temp sensor that will shut down the projector if it gets too hot. if the vents are clogged, blow the dust out of the projector with canned air. the dust keeps in the heat that the projector is trying to expell. easiest way to repair the fan w/o buying a part: splice the fan wires together. they can share voltage. if the 80mm fan does not work at all after that, replace the fan (pn: 526-0192-xx).
The problem is not with the fan its the main controller board, that for some reason becomes faulty with these models and stop supplying the fan with sufficient voltage to operate, not really worth fixing because locating one is hard enough and then the part costs $578 (as quoted for my one). What I have just finished doing to mine, is hard wiring an old nokia charger (transformer) inside the projector, connecting it to the underside of the power supply board (to the 240V inlet plug) which supplies the fan with its own power supply thus fixing the problem without spending hundreds. The down side to this is the fan will keep spinning as long as the projector is plugged in (could be fixed with a switch). This isn't even an issue for me because I always unplug it when I'm finished with it anyways, and it allows the bulb to be cooled for a lot longer than the factory set time, and also saving me from spending thousands on a new projector haha =), hope this help in some way or another.
What I have just finished doing with my x2, because it was the controller board not giving enough voltage to the fan. I used my kiwi initiative and hard wired an old nokia cellphone charger transformer inside the projector and connected to the 240V inlet from the underside of the power supply board, this worked brilliantly and supplies the fan with the power, the only dis advantage is that the fan will keep spinning as long as the projector is plugged in (could be easily fixed with a switch), but the way I see it it's better for me because it cools the bulb down a lot longer. Saved me from buying a new projector Lol, if you would like I can send a pic of what I have done?
I think the problem is the ECA controller (main board). It is through this that the fans are powered. Try to measure the voltage supplied to it (CN377 on the board for the larg lamp fan CN376 for the smaller fan), it shouldn't be less then 5v this can only be achieved if you activate the lamp door switch by jamming a piece of card board in it and powering the projector up. Take caution, and don't touch anything else, high power voltages are also present. You could also try to supply the fan with an external supply 6 to 12 volts after you unplug it from the main board, to make sure the fan is OK making sure of the correct polarity, red wire is +, black is -.