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Building new computer

New mobo, intel d815eea2, got a couple of atx cases and power supply. Pow. sup. is fine, but looking at the front panel assembly harness, to hook it to the J9H3 for the grounds, hdd led, power on, poss. reset, & if the cdrom and/or flop. needs to be hooked. Basicly, with out a preset harness, I am not sure which wire to plug on which pin ! Or do you know where I could get one?

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  • bikinibg Pickering
    bikinibg Pickering May 22, 2008

    This is a pic of my board, the pins....are below that ft.panel hook to, I need to know which pin is hooked to which wire !!! And whant is the discription writing on the tip of the wire "connector".

  • bikinibg Pickering
    bikinibg Pickering May 22, 2008

    I have the mobo spec's complete, it does not say which connector goes to which pin...... I am doing this with an older atx case, so I needed some guidence, not a path to no where..... Two cases doesn't have a big enough connector, but the oldest has the harness in separate wiring diag. which you can hook manually.

  • bikinibg Pickering
    bikinibg Pickering May 23, 2008

    Connecting the wrong wires could burn it up!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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Posted on May 22, 2008

  • Kanth raj
    Kanth raj May 22, 2008

    Randomly connect the wires and try booting up !!!


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I have an Hp m260n. I just need to find out what type of case it has (ATX or uATX).

Motherboard: ASUS P4SD Motherboard Specifications

Board Form Factor: uATX

uATX stands for Micro-ATX,

HOWEVER, the Power Supply is an ATX form factor,

,of a sort.

Form Factor related directly to desktop computer Motherboards.
Now has 'evolved' to relate to the computer case, and Power Supply.

When referring to a Power Supply, and the ATX form factor; you are not only referring to the size, and shape of the Power Supply's case; but also the type of power cables used, and the technology used within.

Size and shape of an ATX power supply is approximately;

6 Inches Wide, 5.5 Inches Long, and 3.5 Inches in Height.
(152.39mm Wide, 139.69mm Long, and 88.89mm in Height)

Power cables included with Power Supply's nowadays, will include all the power cables you'll need, with probably some left over.

HOWEVER, looking at the 'ATX' form factor designated for your computer, to wit from the ad above, it does NOT fit the above size, and shape.

More like 6 Inches Wide, 4 Inches Long, and 3.5 Inches in Height.
Looks like they just crammed everything into one small box.

Remove motherboard, and all internal hardware, into a new computer case?
No prob!

Most Mid-Tower to Full Tower size computer cases, will have a Support Plate that accommodates a Micro-ATX form factor motherboard, OR an ATX form factor motherboard.

Just look at the Support Plate mounting holes.
Ones for a Micro-ATX (uATX) motherboard, will have uATX next to them, or MATX, or mATX.

Ones for an ATX motherboard, will have ATX next to them.

However check the computer case manufacturer info to be sure.

[ The motherboard mounts to a Support Plate.
The Support Plate can be an integral part of the metal frame, of the computer case; or a separate metal plate that attaches to the computer case metal frame ]

Not what you had in mind Joel? Post back in a Comment.


Feb 17, 2013 | HP Media Center PC M260n (DF200A#ABA) PC...

1 Answer

It wont turn on when its plugged in

Pertaining to a Compaq Presario SR1500NX Desktop PC;

Let's see if the problem is a $5 ATX Power On switch, or the Power Supply.

Use a jumper wire on the 20-pin ATX main power cable.
Bypass the Power On switch.

IF, the Power Supply comes on you have a bad Power On switch.
IF, the Power Supply does Not come on you have a bad Power Supply.

This is a look at your motherboard with no hardware components installed, and no cables,

Scroll the page down to the illustration, and photo of the motherboard.

Looking at the illustration look at the Right/Middle.
The ATX Power Connector, is the female connector on the motherboard, that the 20-pin ATX main power cable plugs into.

Match that up to the photo. Whitish long connector, with two columns of 10 socket holes.

This is a general example of a 20-pin ATX main power cable, and it's respective connector on the motherboard,

[NOTE* Color of the connectors NEVER matters ]

The photo to the right shows the 20-pin ATX main power cable, plugged into the motherboard. This is how it should be for the test. Also the Power Supply should be plugged into power.

Look at the Green wire, going into the Back of the power cable's connector.
This is the Soft Power On wire. Abbreviated as PS_ON.
This wire is briefly jumped to A-N-Y Black wire.
ALL Black wires are Ground wires.

The preferred jumper wire is a paper clip. The paper clip is straightened out, then bent into a U-shape.
The middle of the U is wrapped a few times, with black plastic electrical tape.
This area is for your fingers, and thumb to hold onto.

Turn the U upside down. The 'legs' of the U-shaped jumper wire, is what is used.
Look at the squarish socket hole for the Green wire, in the Back of the power cable's connector.
There is room for the 'leg' of the U-shaped jumper wire, to slide down in.

Slides RIGHT NEXT TO the Green wire.
Slides past the insulation of the green wire, and goes down in far enough, to touch a metal terminal.

Every wire going down into the connector, of the 20-pin ATX main power cable's connector, ends in a metal terminal.
Looks like this,
(Except the left side is crimped over, on the insulation of the wire),

The right side is what you barely see, in the middle photo on the Playtool link. The, what look to be almost black spots, (24 of 'em), are the ends of the metal terminals. (Right side)

For this reason you need to ensure the 'leg' of the jumper wire, is going down past the Green wire's insulation, and actually touching the metal terminal. Otherwise you have made no contact with the jumper wire, at all.

The other 'leg' of the U-shaped jumper wire, goes down into A-N-Y socket hole in the Back of the power cable's connector, that has a Black wire in it.

The contact made is no more than 2 seconds.
(The Power On switch is a Momentary Contact Switch)

Worried about Shock?
1) There may be a small spark. This is just the way electricity acts when you complete a circuit, and touching an open wire.

2) The Soft Power On circuit is 5 VOLTS DC.
In comparison two D cell flashlight batteries store 3 VOLTS DC.

For me? Shock is none, or minimal. YOU, may wish to wear a glove, on the hand that holds the U-shaped jumper wire.
Just want you to feel safe.

[Your Power Supply is an Inverter. It converts AC electricity from your home, or business, into low DC electricity.
120 or 220 Volts AC down to three low DC voltages;
A) 3.3 Volts
B) 5 Volts
C) 12 Volts
All are DC voltage.

{ Just like a line pole transformer steps down 7,200 Volts AC single phase, into 220 Volts single phase, for your home} ]

BEFORE reaching into your unplugged from power, computer, FOLLOW Anti-Static Precautions;

Anti-Static Precautions
Your body carries Static electricity. Static WILL fry out
(Short Circuit), the delicate hardware components inside a computer.

Computer on a table, computer unplugged from power, computer case open; TOUCH an unpainted surface, of the metal frame of the open computer case.
This action will relieve your body of Static.

{You are 1/10th less concerned about getting shocked, as you are about Static shocking your computer hardware parts }

IF you leave your computer in the middle of working on it, be SURE to Touch the metal frame again upon your return.

Replace Power On switch:

The Power On button is a plastic assembly. Inside the assembly is just a regular ATX power on switch. The following example is used in a LOT of Desktop PC's,

The Front Panel of the computer is removed, to access the Power On button assembly.

BEFORE removing the Front Panel, make notes, and a drawing, as to where on the motherboard, ALL the wires go to from the Front Panel. This is in case you accidentally bump a wire loose }

The plastic of the Power On button assembly becomes brittle with age, and heat from the computer.

Once removed from the Front Panel, here are two methods I have used, to remove the Power On switch without breaking the plastic Power On button assembly;

1) The Power On switch has been deemed to be no good. Doesn't matter what happens to it from here on out.
I use a small bowl of VERY hot water, and dip the plastic Power On button assembly down into it, while holding onto the wires.

Once it is felt the plastic has softened, I ease back on one tab, at a time, and ease the Power on switch out.
You have to use finesse, and feel if the plastic is soft enough, before you start bending on any tabs.
If not, re-dip in the very warm water, until you feel it is.

2) Use a hair dryer, and heat the plastic up.

In both cases you are dealing with a very warm to hot plastic object, so use gloves, and caution.

[Want to buy the entire Power On button assembly? Sure.
A) If you can find one. If so from an 'auction', remember the Power On switch inside, is U-S-E-D. Who knows how long it will last?
Same if a local computer shop has one.

B) HP Parts? May have one. If so, can you say OUCH? $$ ]

Replace Power Supply:

The Power Supply is just a regular ATX style, and 250 Watt.
Approximate size is 6 inches Wide, 5-1/2 inches Long, and
3-1/2 inches Tall.

This is one example of a Power Supply that is reliable, and compatible,

120mm fan is larger, than the 80mm fan of your old Power Supply
Larger fan turns slower, but produces more air flow.
Turning slower also makes it quieter.
(Unless you are gaming at full throttle! But the game sounds will overshadow the fan noise! Lol! )

550 Watts. Means your computer won't strain for power.
(Note* A computer ONLY uses the power it needs, and NO more.
If it only needs 100 Watts, for example, when surfing the internet, it ONLY uses 100 Watts )

Has all the power cables you'll need, and more.
(Tie the extra power cables up out of the way with plastic ties.
If you need them in the future, you'll have them)

The ATX main power cable has a 20 + 4-pin connector.
Means it can be used as a 20-pin ATX main power cable, which you need; or a 24-pin ATX main power cable.

Want to test the Power Supply before buying a new one?
You need a multimeter. An inexpensive, but good enough for this test, multimeter, can be purchased for as little as $8 to $12.
Available in a multitude of stores. An auto parts store is but one example.

Post back with multimeter in hand, and I'll guide you.

Guide to opening the computer case, and removing Front Panel,

Scroll down, click on the blue -> Upgrading and Servicing Guide

For additional questions please post in a Comment.

Jul 19, 2012 | HP Compaq Presario SR1500NX (PX786AA) PC...

1 Answer

The local electricity supply went off and when power was restored the computer would not come back on again. What has happened?

Could have been a voltage spike. When the utility company turns the juice back on, there is a rush of power. This is needed to meet the power demands for all the users, who are on the line.

Problem is the voltage may be higher than what is needed, and a spike may occur. (Spike: Temporary voltage increase )

No sir. The utility company is not held responsible. (Yes, that bites!)

I have found that around 80 percent of the time, the problem is a bad Power On switch, or a bad Power Supply, when this occurs.

{The rest of the time the power went further than the Power Supply, and burned out the motherboard, Processor, Ram Memory, etc}

Power Supplies used in desktop computers, are generally a generic low quality unit.
Low quality Electrolytic Capacitors, Rectifier Bridge, MOSFET's, small gauge wiring, etc.

Couple that with some age on the Power Supply, and it doesn't take much to put it in an 'early grave'. (Plus being dirty inside)

I suggest you test to see if the problem is a $5 ATX power on switch, or the Power Supply.
I can only give you generic information, as the computer manufacturer name, and model number were not given.

(It's on the back of the computer tower next to the Windows product key, or up on the side/top of the tower, or behind a hinged panel in the front of the computer )

The test is to use a jumper wire, and bypass the Power On switch.
This has Nothing to do with the switch itself, however.

The main power cable coming from the Power Supply, and plugging into the motherboard, is either a 20-pin ATX main power cable, or a 24-pin ATX main power cable.
(Unless the desktop computer is Real old)

1) Basic example of a 20-pin ATX main power cable, and it's respective connector on the motherboard,

{NOTE* Color of connectors does Not matter }

2) Basic example of a 24-pin ATX power cable, and it's respective connector on the motherboard,

(Same thing about color)

Here's the way it works when you press the Power On button, and the computer is plugged into power;

The Power Supply, when plugged into power, has a constant 5 Volt standby power present. (DC)

Pressing the Momentary Contact Switch of a Power On switch, momentarily routes the 5 volt power present in the Power Supply, back to another circuit in the Power Supply.

The Soft Power On circuit.
This small voltage 'excites' the Power Supply, and turns it on.
(No pun intended)

As stated, the Standby power is 5 Volts.
It is 5 Volts DC. In comparison two D cell flashlight batteries store 3 Volts DC.
Stated in case you are worried about electrical shock.

(The Power Supply in your computer is a SMPS.
Switched-Mode Power Supply.

It converts the AC power from your home, or business, into three main low DC voltages.
3.3 Volts, 5 Volts, and 12 Volts.

No matter if your country uses 100 Volts AC, or 120 Volts AC, or 220 Volts AC )

Look at either ATX main power cable. Note in the photo to the far right, the power cable is shown plugged into the motherboard. This is how it should be for the test.

Note also that the wires go in the BACK of the connector, and there is one Green wire.
This is the Soft Power On wire. (Can be abbreviated as PS_ON)

ALL of the Black wires you see are Ground wires.

The preferred jumper wire is a paper clip. It is straightened out, then bent into a U-shape.

The U is wrapped a few times, with black plastic electrical tape
for your fingers, and thumb to hold onto.

The 'legs' go down into the socket holes, in the BACK of the ATX power cable's connector.

The jumper 'legs' go down in the socket holes, RIGHT NEXT TO the existing wires already in the socket holes.

Right next to the GREEN wire, and ANY Black wire.

At the end of every wire going down into the back of the connector, (ATX main power cable connector) is a metal terminal.

This metal terminal is pretty far down in the socket hole. (1/2 inch?)
The jumper wire MUST touch the metal terminals.

The contact made is temporary. No longer than 2 seconds.
(Power Supply plugged into power)

IF, the Power Supply comes on, you have a bad Power On switch.

IF, the Power Supply does Not come on, you have a bad Power Supply.

The Power On switch, is located inside the plastic Power On button assembly.
It is an ATX Power On switch.

This is one example,

The plastic of the Power On button assembly gets hard over time, and with constant heat from the computer.
The best method I have found, is to remove the Front Panel, and the Power On button assembly.

[ NOTE* Make notes as to which pins on the motherboard, in the Front panel header, the wires of the Power On switch go to.

I may Not have access to the Front Panel header pinout, to tell you where those wires went.

{The plastic front of your desktop computer is the Front Panel.
The area of pins on the motherboard, that the wires from the Front Panel go to, is the Front Panel header ]

I then use a hairdryer, or a bowl of very warm water, to soften the plastic.
(The ATX power on switch inside is going to be thrown away. Doesn't matter if it gets wet )

Then carefully ease the case of the Power On button assembly out, and ease the ATX power on switch out.

There MAY be a spark as you connect the jumper wire. Letting you know in advance. The tape is to protect your fingers.
You may feel safer using a glove on that hand.

The voltage however, is 5 Volts DC. As previously stated two D cell flashlight batteries store 3 Volts DC.

Would appreciate it if you would post back in a Comment, as to your findings.
With the computer manufacturer name, and model number, I may be able to show you direct information.

I can also help you decide on a Power Supply to buy, should it be the problem.


Feb 11, 2012 | Computers & Internet

2 Answers

Put in new power supply. not sure of wiring diagram. now monitor says no input signal. what should it look like? did i miss something?

If my sources are correct, (Haven't worked on one in my shop yet), the eMachines T5212 desktop computer uses an Intel D101GGC2 motherboard.

The Intel D101GGC motherboard is Very similar,

Motherboard Manual - left-click on English Product Guide [PDF], in blue.

Give a few seconds for the first page to come up, (Took 6 seconds for me), and for the PDF file to fully download, before looking through it. (Took 24 seconds for me)

1) Did you make sure the 24 -pin ATX main power cable, is plugged in tight?
Lock on the side is snapped in place?
Page 42.

Closer look at a 24-pin ATX main power cable, and it's respective connector,

2) Did you plug in the 4-pin ATX +12 Volt power cable?

Page 42
That's power for the Intel Pentium D model 805 processor.

Are the cables (Wires) from the Front Panel of the computer, plugged in correctly into the Front Panel header on the motherboard?
Page 37

Are you sure the DDR2 Sdram ram memory module/s (Stick/s) are plugged in tight?

The best method is to remove it, or them, and reinstall.
This way you are assured.

Most of the time a ram memory module, or more than one, will be bumped loose when installing a Power Supply.

Jun 22, 2010 | E-Machines T5212 PC Desktop

2 Answers

Need to know which style of m b I have is it an atx

The difference between ATX and MicroATX is the size. An ATX board will usually have 6-7 slots to add cards like video, network or sound cards. An ATX board will also usually not have a video port on the board. A MicroATX board will usually have only 3-4 slots to add cards into it, at least one of which being dedicated to AGP or PCI Express Video cards.
To answer your question: That computer uses a MicroATX board. A Micro ATX board will most likely work in any PC Case whereas an ATX board requires an ATX size case (Mid or Full size Tower).

Jun 06, 2010 | eMachines T3508 PC Desktop

1 Answer

Dell Asus M2N61-AX MB front panel connector Nix ATX Gaming case

I assume you mean the HDD,reset,on switch etc where they plug onto the mobo.

Most mobos are labelled on the board but you will need good eyesight to read. They are labelled HDD, RESET, SPEAKER etc.

If not simply look up mobo manual from vendors site. You will need the DELL serial / part number from the old unit though.

Apr 29, 2010 | ASUS Computers & Internet

4 Answers

I want to upgrade the motherboard in my Sony VAIO VGC-RC110G PC Desktop. Is this possible or does sony use a nonstandard configured motherboard?

I have only worked on one of these Sony desktops, and it is really very proprietary, where you would be better off buying a new case to install a new motherboard in. The sony looks really slick, but everything about it is odd: The power supply, the cooling fan for the cpu, etc. It would be a lot easier to save what you can and move it to a new project!

Feb 11, 2010 | Sony VAIO VGC-RC110G (VGCR110G) PC Desktop

1 Answer

Pc tower motherboard upgrade

you can put in any new micro-atx motherboard no problem. I can be 100% sure if the case is Atx full size- best way to check is to see how many pci expansion slots are available at the back of the case. Any Atx case can hold micro-atx mobo's but a micro atx case wont hold atx mobo.

May 27, 2009 | Compaq Presario 5000 PC Desktop

1 Answer

Would this motherboard fint in

Yes, the board would physically fit in the 5000 series case. In fact, any micro-ATX form factor board would fit. But you will need a new power supply as well. Motherboards used in those computers did not need the 4-pin power cable required on new boards. You should also consider cooling if you are building a high-performance system. The 5000 series case doesn't offer much room for adding cooling fans - only one place on the rear panel. But they are nice cases. I've built several systems in them.

Jan 31, 2009 | Compaq Presario 5000 PC Desktop

1 Answer

Replace an old mobo

According to Insignia, this case uses a micro-ATX board, so that's what you'll need. You might also want to replace the power supply too. The specs don't say what wattage they supplied, but they're usually pretty undersized in these factory machines. You'll probably need a new hard drive as well, unless you make sure your new mobo has two IDE channels. The original hard drive is parallel IDE and most new uATX boards have only 1 IDE connector but lots of SATA connectors. (A place I like to shop for parts is

Dec 10, 2008 | Computers & Internet

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