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Re: Fisher CA-273 amplifier left speaker ports
Fuses will be on the inside of the amp. you will have to disconnect it from the power and open the box to get at the fuses( some fuses are accessible from the outside of the amp) also, you may have blown the input or output section of your amp. this is not easy to fix at all. you can blow it from playing your music too loud or from a loud source. while the case is open, have a look at the solder joints on everything. if anything is brown, covered in white residue bulging, melted, burned or looks disconnected, that is probably the problem.
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Determining the Cause of the Problem
Let's assume our system has a head unit, a crossover, a two channel amplifier and two door speakers with only the right speaker working (the left speaker is not working). If the door speakers are behind the door panels then we want to make sure the speaker is the problem before removing the panel. We'll work backwards starting with the amplifier and ending at the head unit.
Testing for a Speaker Problem
With the vehicle and the stereo turned off disconnect the speaker wires for both the left and right speakers at the amplifier. Now connect the left speaker to the right amplifier output (which we know works). Turn on the stereo system and make sure the balance is set to the middle position.If the speaker still doesn't work then the problem is somewhere between the amplifier and the speaker
Testing for an Amplifier Problem
Now we'll need to see if the amplifier channel is bad. Put the left speaker back on the left amplifier channel and the right speaker on the right amplifier channel. This returns the speaker wiring to its original configuration. Again, with the vehicle and stereo off unplug the RCA cables from the amplifier's input and switch them so the left cable is in the right input and vice versa. Turn on the stereo system.
Testing for an RCA Cable Problem
For any intermediate components between the amplifier and the head unit follow these steps for each one. We only have a crossover so we'll just do this once. Begin by testing the RCA cables between the intermediate component and the amplifier. Unplug both RCA cables from the intermediate component's output. Now plug the working channel's RCA cable into the non-working side of the crossover. In our case the working channel is the right so plug the right RCA cable from the amplifier into the left side of the crossover. Turn on the stereo system.
If the right channel continues to work then you know the problem is in the RCA cables between the amp and the crossover.
esting for a Crossover or Equalizer Problem
At the input of the intermediate component (in our case the crossover) flip the RCA cables around (left to right input and vice versa). Turn on the stereo system.
If the right channel continues to work and the left channel continues to not work then you know the problem is in the intermediate component. Replace or repair this component.
If the problem is now in the right speaker and the left speaker works then the problem lies before the crossover. Turn off the stereo system and return the RCA cables to their normal places.
Testing for a Head Unit or RCA Cable Problem
Pull out the head unit from the dash so you can access the RCA cables. Unplug both RCA cables from the head unit. Do not disconnect any other wiring. Plug the right RCA cable into the left channel of the head unit. Turn on the stereo system.
Check to insure you have properly matched the ohm ratings of the amp with your speakers. If you are running an amp rated for 4 ohms and due to running speakers with a total ohm load of less than the amp will safely handle, it will overheat very quickly...and could eventually burn out. Study speaker ohm ratings on Google as set-ups with multiple speakers have to be calculated correctly when wirired " in a series" or "when wired in parrellel" which are two entirely different formulas. Good Luck
Something doesn't add up. You mention two connections to the speakers - CA-9335 and a "simple jvc cd player". Is that true? If so, you might want to UNconnect the CD from the speakers and run it into the receiver where it belongs. An amp isn't designed to share the load with another live device; or even have electrical contact with anything BUT speakers.
Did you actually find documentation that supports this hook-up? Or just winging it?
Alright i had a chance to look over things, this is how you are going to hook up the sub. first we'll be connecting the surround sound unit to the sub woofer. surround sound unit sub woofer left front: positive (+) <-----to------------->(+) left speaker level in negative ( - )<- - -to- - - - - - ->( - ) left speaker level in
right front: positive (+) <-----to------------->(+) right speaker level in
negative ( - )<- - -to- - - - - - >( - ) right speaker level in
now that the surround sound unit is connected to the sub woofer you will need to connect the front surround sound speakers to the sub woofer. sub woofer front surround sound speaker left speaker level out (+)<-----to--------> (+) left front speaker left speaker level out( - ) <- - - to- - - - ->( - ) left front speaker
right speaker level out (+)<-----to--------> (+) right front speaker right speaker level out( - ) <- - - to- - - ->( - ) right front speaker
Alright now that the wires are all over the place and plugged in turn everything on and see how it sounds. let me know if everything is working as it should. if you need help with anything else or if something does not seem right please feel free to contact me via e-mail or phone Mark Woodring
It is possible that the error protection is ON and so does not switch on the amplifier to the speaker. Only if the error amplifier which is a current sensing circuit gets a good feedback on normal current drain will the processor be informed for the speaker relay to be switch.
So remove speakers and check, if not the output is faulty. check for short or drain in at least one channel.
well could be a few things. It could be the input source. so if you are playing a cassette, try cd or tuner and see if the same happens.
Could be dust in switches so wiggle and push the function selector controls and see if it gets any better or worse.
Could be bad speaker terminations - Try removing speaker cables, re-stripping and re connecting at both amp and speaker end.
Possible dust in the volume pottentiometer so with the power off, move volume up and down franticallly (but gently) from min to max for about 15-30 seconds) to clear out any loose particles.
If these small things should not work, please reply back with anything you've noticed from these tests and I will try and aid you some more
Yes you can use either A or B without a problem. The restriction is when you have both A & B connected. In that case, the speakers MUST be a minimum of 8 Ohm impedence. Using either A or B, you can use speakers of 4 Ohms impedence.
These units use amp-pacs for the output stage, if I remember correctly. All in all, the unit will require some diagnosis to determine the problem with the power supply and the final output stage. The total cost of repair easily could exceed $125. You can probably replace the unit with a better one for not much more.
If you would still like this unit repaired, please indicate where you are in the country and I'll try to find a shop for you.
It goes between whatever you are using to create the sound and the input to the amplifier. e.g. for a standard HiFi.. HiFi aux out to equalizer input... equalizer output to amplifier aux input. Trying to keep left and right channels the same through out. They are usually colour coded. Red = right Left = white. Hope that helps. We all start somewhere