I need some help with my lens which is the Auto Focal doesn't want communication or means doesn't want to open eventhough I set an aperture 5f/.6 but still doesn't work, but it's work if I switched to the manual.
thinking about buy other lens but I can't afford it, I love this lens, I bought on December last year.
What should I do, thinking about buy other same lens but I can't afford it.
If you cant afford it read this,
The reason for this is that I find it easiest to track a moving subject if it's in the middle of the viewfinder. Cameras cannot know what you want to focus on, and if you start using multiple AF points, how is the camera supposed to know that you want to focus on the bird and not the tree - cameras are lacking in human thought processes! What is quite handy though is using the AI SERVO FOCUS or AI FOCUS settings so that the lens will alter it's focus on the subject over which the centre AF point is aligned as it moves towards you or further away from you. Without this, the focus will fix at the point you half depress shutter and if the subject comes closer or goes further away then it will be out of focus. you can call any expert of lences also for it if you can afford.
a 6ya Expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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Are you using an auto-focus m4/3 lens? I have about 20 lenses for this camera and only 1 of them is an auto-focus m4/3 lens. I have an adapter so I can use my 4/3 lenses on it in auto-focus mode along with other various mounts (including cctv) that do not support auto-focus. So if you are using a non-auto-focus lens, you will need to manually focus the pictures.
If you are certain it is an auto-focus lens, are you sure you have it set to auto-focus?
What settings do you have your camera set to (aperature mostly is what I'd like to know)? Try adjusting your aperature to be small (to increase your DOF).
Also what lens are you using and what is your focal distance? It could be your lens has a larger or shallower focal distance than what you are trying to achieve (like a macro lens doesn't work that great for landscape photography or a telephoto lens doesn't work great for macro photography).
Last thought: is your lens or sensor dirty? A dirty lens can cause focusing issues if it is REALLY dirty and a dirty sensor can too (sensor is a bigger pain to clean. I strongly recommend taking it to the pros as they scratch really easily). Dirty lenses can be cleaned with a blower and a lint free cloth and rubbing alcohol if those 2 things don't clear it out.
If by a "normal" lens, you mean a 35mm or 50mm fixed focal length - often called "prime" lens, that is to be expected. The additional and internal rotating optical elements all contribute to loss of clarity, color loss, and increased chromatic aberration that starts to become noticeable when compared to use of a prime lens. It's a trade off; less number of lenses to carry and lower cost when using wide angle zoom lenses as opposed to a prime lens for even just a few of the focal lengths offered by the wide angle zoom types.
You can minimize the unwanted effects by staying away from both the extreme wide angle and zoom focal lengths as well as the widest aperture settings. If you can stay 2 or 3 stops smaller from wide open, you can limit these destractions from your pictures. This is recommended advice for nearly every lens: Keep away from the extremes.
M means Manual Focus. If you set the lens to this then you need to turn the lens manually to get it into focus. A means Auto Focus and when the lens is det to this it should focus automatically but you need to set the mode button OFF Manual. It should work on any other setting.
You have not supplied enough information, however with the Sigma lenses here are a few things that could be a problem.
Is the switch from auto to manual focus set to auto focus.
Is the lens the proper mount for the camera it is installed on (meaning have you used an adapter to go from a Nikon to a Canon mount?) if so then there will be no electronic communication and the lens will only function in manual focus mode.
Is the lens compatible with the camera model? (meaning some newer cameras set the lens aperture in the camera while some older lenses set the aperture on the lens.)
Part 1 of 2 Have you installed an older "film" lens on a newer version digital camera?
Part 2 of 2 Have you installed a digital full frame lens on a Canon "S" mount with the APS size sensor with the 1.6 focal factor?
Have you changed the camera model to a newer Canon EOS
Have you updated the camera firmware recently?
Have you lightly polished (cleaned) the contacts between the camera and lens? Have you received an error code 99? Cleaning the gold contacts on the lens and camera body can be done with a clean pencil eraser and lightly polish the matting surfaces making sure no dust gets into the back of the lens or the camera body. Hold the camera lens mount down while lightly polishing the contacts same with the lens. Do not wipe clean with a facial tissue or use any type of liquid cleaner.
Also third party lenses like Sigma often do not have the compatible electronic "chip" to properly communicate with all Canon EOS cameras. Meaning if you had the lens on a Canon EOS 20D and then put it on a Canon 50D chances are it won't work.
Is the lens properly locked onto the camera body dismount and remount the lens generally solves this problem.
If non of the above isn't the problem then a trip to a repair center is needed.
We need to understand Depth of Field first. Depth of field increase in two ways, one with the Aperture setting and one with the distance the lens is focused on. Example, at F22 focused at 10 feet the Depth of Field will be (assume for the example) from 7ft to 20 ft. You need to use the camera in aperture mode, set it to a "Slow" aperture, the larger the number the slower the aperture. Example F2.8 is "fast or Open, F22 is slow or "closed". The problem is not in your lens or camera. To get maximum Depth of fuield you need to shoot in Aperture Mode, set the f-stop to F11 or slower, F16, F22. The use manual focus to focus the lens. Using auto focus is "ok" for many scenes but to get MAX Depth of field you cannot let the camera select the object to focus on. Here is the BEST way to do it. Setup your camera in Aperture mode, set F-stops as suggested above. Focus on the subject that you want and shoot. Dont forget, the camera will be using slow shutter speeds like this so camera shake will create blurr that can be confused with out of focus. Shooting slow at F11 to F22 usually required a good tripod. Also, another thing to know, Field of focus is deeper "behind" the spot you are focusing on than in "Frint" of the point you are focused on. Good luck, Worm1855
There is no problem. The lens is f/3.5-6.3. That means that at 200mm the maximum aperture is f/6.3. At long focal lengths you will not be able to open up beyond f/6 or so. At the short end, at 18mm the maximum aperture is f/3.5.
Chances are good that it's not your camera, but your lens. In a darker atmosphere, you need a fast lens, meaning you need a lens that has a wide aperture (1.4 to 2.8) I'm guessing you're using a lens thats' 3.5 or larger. (Yes, the larger apertures have the smaller numbers)
If your camera was spending all it's time moving in and out trying to focus, it's probably because there was not enough light for the camera to distinguish a focal point. Same thing happens when you shoot a solid blue sky. No focal point.
Help me understand by telling me what lens you're using and what settings you were using on the camera.