I need some help with my lens which is the Auto Focal doesn't want communication or means doesn't want to open eventhough I set an aperture 5f/.6 but still doesn't work, but it's work if I switched to the manual.
thinking about buy other lens but I can't afford it, I love this lens, I bought on December last year.
What should I do, thinking about buy other same lens but I can't afford it.
If you cant afford it read this,
The reason for this is that I find it easiest to track a moving subject if it's in the middle of the viewfinder. Cameras cannot know what you want to focus on, and if you start using multiple AF points, how is the camera supposed to know that you want to focus on the bird and not the tree - cameras are lacking in human thought processes! What is quite handy though is using the AI SERVO FOCUS or AI FOCUS settings so that the lens will alter it's focus on the subject over which the centre AF point is aligned as it moves towards you or further away from you. Without this, the focus will fix at the point you half depress shutter and if the subject comes closer or goes further away then it will be out of focus. you can call any expert of lences also for it if you can afford.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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If by a "normal" lens, you mean a 35mm or 50mm fixed focal length - often called "prime" lens, that is to be expected. The additional and internal rotating optical elements all contribute to loss of clarity, color loss, and increased chromatic aberration that starts to become noticeable when compared to use of a prime lens. It's a trade off; less number of lenses to carry and lower cost when using wide angle zoom lenses as opposed to a prime lens for even just a few of the focal lengths offered by the wide angle zoom types.
You can minimize the unwanted effects by staying away from both the extreme wide angle and zoom focal lengths as well as the widest aperture settings. If you can stay 2 or 3 stops smaller from wide open, you can limit these destractions from your pictures. This is recommended advice for nearly every lens: Keep away from the extremes.
You have not supplied enough information, however with the Sigma lenses here are a few things that could be a problem.
Is the switch from auto to manual focus set to auto focus.
Is the lens the proper mount for the camera it is installed on (meaning have you used an adapter to go from a Nikon to a Canon mount?) if so then there will be no electronic communication and the lens will only function in manual focus mode.
Is the lens compatible with the camera model? (meaning some newer cameras set the lens aperture in the camera while some older lenses set the aperture on the lens.)
Part 1 of 2 Have you installed an older "film" lens on a newer version digital camera?
Part 2 of 2 Have you installed a digital full frame lens on a Canon "S" mount with the APS size sensor with the 1.6 focal factor?
Have you changed the camera model to a newer Canon EOS
Have you updated the camera firmware recently?
Have you lightly polished (cleaned) the contacts between the camera and lens? Have you received an error code 99? Cleaning the gold contacts on the lens and camera body can be done with a clean pencil eraser and lightly polish the matting surfaces making sure no dust gets into the back of the lens or the camera body. Hold the camera lens mount down while lightly polishing the contacts same with the lens. Do not wipe clean with a facial tissue or use any type of liquid cleaner.
Also third party lenses like Sigma often do not have the compatible electronic "chip" to properly communicate with all Canon EOS cameras. Meaning if you had the lens on a Canon EOS 20D and then put it on a Canon 50D chances are it won't work.
Is the lens properly locked onto the camera body dismount and remount the lens generally solves this problem.
If non of the above isn't the problem then a trip to a repair center is needed.
Some of the Rokinon (and other ) zoom lenses could only go into MACRO at certain focal lengths- the lens you have "zooms" from 80 to 200 focal length,but is that done by "sliding" a ring forward and back on the lens, or by twisting a different ring that the one that focuses?
It will default to manual through the viewing screen. It will only work on automatic, using the viewfinder. Make sure you also set the focal length (lens to shutter distance). You might also have a mf / af switch on the lens. This also only works through the viewfinder.
Hi - I own this lens and it manually focuses at all focal lengths (hard to see at 18mm unless your subject is extremly close). You may need to get the lens checked. BTW - Mine was set as follows when I checked for you:
There is no problem. The lens is f/3.5-6.3. That means that at 200mm the maximum aperture is f/6.3. At long focal lengths you will not be able to open up beyond f/6 or so. At the short end, at 18mm the maximum aperture is f/3.5.
(From Sigma lens literature) Capable of macro photography, this
lens has a 1:2 maximum close-up magnification at the 300 mm focal
length. It's the ideal high performance lens for portraits, sports
photography, nature photography, and other types of photography that
frequently use the telephoto range. It also has a switch for changeover
to macro photography at focal lengths between 200mm and 300mm with a
maximum close-up magnification from 1:2.9 to 1:2. The minimum focusing
distance is 1.5m / 59 in. at all zoom settings.
That's the focal length of the lens. If there're two numbers, then the lens is either a zoom or a "vari-focal" lens, meaning the lens can change focal length from one end to the other. In this case, the lens can change its focal length from 150mm to 750mm, either by turning a ring or pushing/pulling a ring.
BTW I wasn't aware Pentax had a zoom that long. Are you sure it's not 75-150?