Need to know which colour wires are the common, normally open and normally closed on the 6 wire zone valve. Colours on valve are brown,blue.green/yellow,orange,grey,white. Thanks in anticipation. Ed

Its hard to say where its getting power from. It should be a normally closed two wire valve, so power must be fed from the tstat only? Not real sure how it's wired. You could try a round of MUSICAL THERMOSTATS? That would answer your question as long as its played properly.

I'm doing a lot of guessing here for lack of information. You have a residential boiler and hydronic heating system that is zoned around your home and each zone has an independent thermostat?
Again, I need to guess. The old valve was spring return with yellow, blue and red wires? If all is true so far, then I think you had a single end switch with one COMMON - one NORMALLY OPEN and one NORMALLY CLOSED contact. 6 wires would make up 2 end switches. Brown is a normal color for one lead of an end switch. If this is all true, your new switches are probably NORMALLY OPEN and you only need 1. If this did not help you, give me a better description of old and new and I will get this correctly answered for you.

Im assuming that--
you waited long enough for the valve to open
you used the manual lever to check for flow
same thermostat
boiler isn't off on reset
theres power to the boiler
Do you hear the valve energize? If not--
The orange wires are interchangeable so it dosnt matter. the zone valve is normally closed so it wont open unless it gets power from a call for heat. Follow the blue and brown wires down to the control and make sure they aren't cracked. Check for water in control panel. Pull relay and look for small soot mark inside (blown).If wires have been spliced at any point remove wire nuts restrip wire and use NEW wire nuts to reconnect.At control remove wires one at a time clip and strip and reconnect. make sure the wire is wrapped around screw and tighten. If valve still isn't opening check the corresponding TT terminal connections clip and strip and reconnect.Still no water? With wires removed jump the TT terminals. If it powers after at least 15 sec then it may be either you thermostat or the wire going to it.
It could also be on the water side. If the plunger inside the valve body is stuck closed or clogged you can either isolate and drain the zone, remove the brass plug and dig around or buy a zone valve WITH the brass body. isolate and drain the zone, sweat off the old one and sweat on a new one. I know...good times :-{

com=common= [ L ](live)same, the one that kills you. =red/brown N - neutral=black/blue Earth=green or green&yellow striped old colours= red, black, & green. new colours= brown, blue & green/yellow. L,N E.......... If you are uncertain of your abilities to wire up ,ask a competent electrician .........your life is worth more than £50.00.

go to salvage yard and get a plug then go to auto zone for after market radio wiring with plug
if you have original plug in car still just buy the plug from auto zone

This problem has to be in the way the valve was wired. Wrong zone valve-Normally open instead of normally closed-power interuption causing valve to open. Faulty T-stat/ Most likely wired incorrectly.

It is technically possible use a 2-wire thermostat with a 3-wire zone valve, but you need a single pole, double throw relay like a fan control relay with one normally open switch and one normally closed switch. 2-wire thermostats only have one switch that is normally open. 3-wire thermostats have two switches......one switch that is normally open, and one switch that is normally closed. The fan relay lets the 2-wire thermostat simulate a 3-wire thermostat. It's possible, but usually it's easier to just get a 3-wire thermosts.

If all zones do not open, I would check the water supply first. Verify that the water is indeed on. If you have water at each valve location, then I would check at the wiring at the controller. Use a Multi-meter & check the resistance (ohms) between the common wire terminal and the wires at the terminal for zones 1 through 6. If you get an open loop (O.L.) reading on all zones, I would think the common wire is cut or disconnected. Also look for a rain sensor that could be wired into the common wire. If it is faulty or stuck, it could cause an O.L. in the wiring. If a rain sensor is wired in at the controller, disconnect it from the common wire path and connect the common wire directly back to the common terminal. If it works now, then you have a bad rain sensor.
A normal reading should be 20 – 60 Ohms from the common terminal to any zone wire. If you are in that range, the only other thing it can be is the output voltage from the controller to the valves. Use a Multi-meter & check the voltage at 24VAC terminals where the external transformer is connected. You should have 24-30VAC. Next, open zone 1 and check the voltage between the common wire terminal and the terminal for zone 1. You should have the same reading as you got for the transformer. If you have nothing or a large difference, then I would suspect the controller might be damaged.
Remove the power & 3 volt lithium battery and wait 2-3 minutes, then reprogram the controller and try again. Good luck!

Hi,

All you need to do is look at the wiring diagram on the back of the old room stat, you will have the following:

(normally wired with these colours)

OLD COLOUR CODING

Live (sometimes called common) - Red
Neutral - Blue
Switch Live - Yellow

NEW COLOUR CODING

Live - Brown
Neutral - Grey
Switch Live - Black

All you need to do is wire up the new stat with this in mind. (please note: if the wires are not colour coded like this then do not proceed and get an electrician)

Any problems or questions let me know

I hope this helps

Steve

Colour code Standard wire colours for flexible cable
Such as Extension cords, power (line) cords and lamp cords World Region, country
or other entity(ies) Live Neutral Protective earth/ground EU, Australia & South Africa (IEC 60446) brown blue green & yellow Australia & New Zealand (AS/NZS 3000:2000 3.8.1) red black green/yellow United States and Canada black (brass) white (silver) green (green) Standard wire colours for fixed cable
(In or behind the wall wiring cables) Region Live Neutral Protective earth/ground EU (IEC 60446) including UK from 31 March 2004 brown blue green & yellow Australia and South Africa red black green & yellow (core is usually bare and should be sleeved at terminations) United States and Canada black, red, blue(brass) white (silver) green (green)
or bare copper wire Note: the colours in this table represent the most common and preferred standard colours for single phase wiring however others may be in use, especially in older installations.