I removed my drum to extract a "underwire" that departed a garment and got stuck in the spokes behind the drum. In the course of this the grease sealing the shaft became contaminated with grit (corrosion on the spokes) and was wiped off.
What should I use for replacement grease on the shaft at the seal? Frigidaire doesn't appear to list this as a part. I know it needs to be both water resistant and stay put well enough to not soil clothing. I'm considering trying non-silicone plumbers grease if I can't get anything else.
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Something has probably got behind the drum. Usual suspects are broken underwires from bras and hair clips or pins.
Spin it by hand when empty, both ways and see if you can figure out where it is at. Check the filter and the flexible rubber hoses from the drum drain point to the filter and the filter to the pump. Give those hoses a squeeze and see if you can feel anything in them. I have found bits of underwire, coins and small metal items. They are removable with a bit of effort, but be prepared for water spillage. Take a photo before you remove anything so you can see how it all fits back together.
REMOVE THE POWER PLUG FROM THE SOCKET this is a messy job, you will need to remove the lid remove the front of the machine 2 -3 screws behind the clip on pannel front bottom I cant rember if the front hangs on two lugs one either side or if there are acouple of screws behind the faceplate, you will need to disconnect the door safty switch (make note of the wire positions), remove the wire band that clamps the door seal to the outer drum, now you should be able to see the drum and the drum outer casing, you will neeed to remove the access panel from the rear of the machine and if the belt has not already come off remove it , you notice a large nut holding the flywheel on inspect closely as there may be some securing tags (large washer with folded edges stopping the nut from comming undone ) remove nut , you will now need to remove the drum from the front of the machine using a peice of wood place on shaft and strike it with a heavy hammer or a mallet do not worry about damaging the shaft as you will need to replace this as well as the bearings as when bearings fail it is normaly to do with water getting to the bearing and corroding them (rust) untill they give up this normally damages the shaft, once the shaft is removed if you look through to shaft hole you will see the outer casing of the beaings thease need to be removed normally by tapping out (not always easy)there are two one at fromt one at back the back one is removed from inside the drum front removed from rear of machine , once this is all clear you are ready to the reverse putting it all together, the bearing kit should contain all you need to replace the bearings including the spider ( the three legged fitting that connects to the drum and has the shaft on it) when replacing the bearings make sure that where the old bearings come out of is nice and clean (fine sanpaper to remove small high spots) i use vaselene to aid bearing seating , using a rubber mallet genlely tap the edge of the bearing into place (never hit the center of the bearing as you could damage the seal and or the bearing) when the bearings are in smear some grease onto the shaft and rfit, a bearing kit trade is about 20 uk pounds
The metal covering piece is probably the outer seal for the front bearing--you remove both by driving the bearing out with a long metal rod (or a long punch) that reaches all the way through from the back (you have removed the inner drum and end shaft first). Tap fairly gently on the rod with a hammer and move the bearing end to another location after a few taps. The seal should pop out first, with the bearing next. Once out, look for a number on the bearing edge--it should match the replacement. Inspect the surface where the seal mates with the shaft--it should be pit and wear free. If it is not, a local machine shop should be able to repair that surface (and cheaper than a new inner drum assembly). It is essential that this surface be perfect as it keeps water out of the bearing behind it. The seal can be reused if it still fits fairly tightly on the shaft and that it was not damaged during the removal process. Check with a local bearing supply house to get a replacement bearing. The new bearing will have been greased at the factory, but you need to grease the shaft and inner seal lip with waterproof grease before installing the seal. Don't strike the inner part of the new bearing, only along the outer edge when tapping it back into the housing. Same with the seal. The far end bearing will likely be good and not need to be replaced--slowly turn the inside part and feel for any roughness which would indicate the need for replacement. If so, it gets tapped out from the front side in a similar manner as the front removal. Good luck!!
Remove the agitator and check the shaft seal underneath the plastic drive block at the top of the shaft. Move the shaft in different directions to check the condition of the top bearing. If none or very slight, replace the seal at the top of the shaft supporting post. Clean any grease that is outside of the seal when you are done. Be sure to not damage the seal surface on the shaft when removing/replacing the seal and pre-grease the new seal's inner lip before installing.
disconnect from electricity. take back panel off.you will see heater at bottom of tub held in by 1 10mm nut.disconnect wires to it. loosen this nut and pull heater out - you may have to help it with a screwdriver. you can then see into the gap between tub and drum and fish for the bra wire. tell her not to wear bras with wires!!
Switch off machine and unplug it from the wall socket. Remove back plate and identify the heating element. It should be located at the bottom of the outer drum. Remove element and you will have limited access to the space between the drums. Rotate the drum slowly by hand untill the bra wire gets to the bottom of the drum. Remove obstruction with hook or long tweeser.
Bit of a long shot, but I once had a machine with a crack at the root of one of the spokes on the big pulley wheel on the end of the drum - made a nasty noise once every turn as the belt tension came on and off that spoke.
Good indicator of this would be if you can make the squeak happen when you turn the drum by hand, but this stops when you take the drive belt off.
If the noise is still there with the belt off, try removing the hose that leads from the base of the drum to the pump and use the hole that leaves to try and find if anything (stray bra wire?) has got stuck between inner and fixed drums. Check for the same thing between the front edge of the drum and the back of the door seal. On some machines, you can also get a little access where the condenser plugs into the back of the drum.
Finally, give the pulley wheel a good shoogle up/down, left/right and back & forth to check the bearings are OK (another long shot).