I removed my drum to extract a "underwire" that departed a garment and got stuck in the spokes behind the drum. In the course of this the grease sealing the shaft became contaminated with grit (corrosion on the spokes) and was wiped off.
What should I use for replacement grease on the shaft at the seal? Frigidaire doesn't appear to list this as a part. I know it needs to be both water resistant and stay put well enough to not soil clothing. I'm considering trying non-silicone plumbers grease if I can't get anything else.
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Something has probably got behind the drum. Usual suspects are broken underwires from bras and hair clips or pins.
Spin it by hand when empty, both ways and see if you can figure out where it is at. Check the filter and the flexible rubber hoses from the drum drain point to the filter and the filter to the pump. Give those hoses a squeeze and see if you can feel anything in them. I have found bits of underwire, coins and small metal items. They are removable with a bit of effort, but be prepared for water spillage. Take a photo before you remove anything so you can see how it all fits back together.
The metal covering piece is probably the outer seal for the front bearing--you remove both by driving the bearing out with a long metal rod (or a long punch) that reaches all the way through from the back (you have removed the inner drum and end shaft first). Tap fairly gently on the rod with a hammer and move the bearing end to another location after a few taps. The seal should pop out first, with the bearing next. Once out, look for a number on the bearing edge--it should match the replacement. Inspect the surface where the seal mates with the shaft--it should be pit and wear free. If it is not, a local machine shop should be able to repair that surface (and cheaper than a new inner drum assembly). It is essential that this surface be perfect as it keeps water out of the bearing behind it. The seal can be reused if it still fits fairly tightly on the shaft and that it was not damaged during the removal process. Check with a local bearing supply house to get a replacement bearing. The new bearing will have been greased at the factory, but you need to grease the shaft and inner seal lip with waterproof grease before installing the seal. Don't strike the inner part of the new bearing, only along the outer edge when tapping it back into the housing. Same with the seal. The far end bearing will likely be good and not need to be replaced--slowly turn the inside part and feel for any roughness which would indicate the need for replacement. If so, it gets tapped out from the front side in a similar manner as the front removal. Good luck!!
You wouldn't believe how common that is. If you can see part of the underwire, unplug the machine first! Then, try to pull it out through the holes in the rear of the drum with needle nose pliers or vise grips. I can't stress enough the need to unplug the dryer first. On certain brands the heater is right behind the rear panel and depending on certain circumstances there could be 120-240 volts to the heater even though it is not hot and the underwire could either be shorted already or will short when you try to pull it out.
for drum brakes with sealed hub(all one piece) remove lug nuts and wheel.
spray penetrating oil around studs if there is a big phillips head screw visible remove it with impact driver/if not use big ballpeen hammer ,tap on flat of drum near studs(becareful not to hit them) until drum loosens(your creating a shockwave to loosen rust)
once drum is off there are 4-bolts coming in from behind backing plate, remove them then hub should be able to be removed w/a little persuation from hammer.
with out sealed hub ,
remove dust cap,cotterpin,star washer(if equipped) do not re use cotter pin
remove nut then washer, wiggle brake drum and front bearing will come out.
put nut on shaft tighten 2-3 turns grab drum by sides and pull towards you this should remove drum leaving inner bearing/seal on shaft
to replace reverse procedure making sure to pack new bearings w/grease(take drum and use long punch to remove bearing races, use race/seal installer to install new races
Switch off machine and unplug it from the wall socket. Remove back plate and identify the heating element. It should be located at the bottom of the outer drum. Remove element and you will have limited access to the space between the drums. Rotate the drum slowly by hand untill the bra wire gets to the bottom of the drum. Remove obstruction with hook or long tweeser.
Bit of a long shot, but I once had a machine with a crack at the root of one of the spokes on the big pulley wheel on the end of the drum - made a nasty noise once every turn as the belt tension came on and off that spoke.
Good indicator of this would be if you can make the squeak happen when you turn the drum by hand, but this stops when you take the drive belt off.
If the noise is still there with the belt off, try removing the hose that leads from the base of the drum to the pump and use the hole that leaves to try and find if anything (stray bra wire?) has got stuck between inner and fixed drums. Check for the same thing between the front edge of the drum and the back of the door seal. On some machines, you can also get a little access where the condenser plugs into the back of the drum.
Finally, give the pulley wheel a good shoogle up/down, left/right and back & forth to check the bearings are OK (another long shot).