Dryer shuts off minute or two into drying cycle

sounds like maybe bad heating element first check out ur thermostats hi-lo, thermal shut off, and cycling thermostat with a multimeter. also check element for continuity

All Kenmore Electric Dryers use a thermal cut-off or thermal cut-out, hi-limit thermostat, and a cycling thermostat apart from the motor centrifugal switch as parts of the heating circuit. The thermal cut-off/thermal cut-out and the hi-limit thermostat are located on the heater duct/element duct while the cycling thermostat is located on the blower housing.







The thermal cut-off/cut-out serves as a safety measure and blows open should the dryer overheats or should the hi-limit thermostat fails to cut off power to the heating element. Check the continuity of the thermal cut-off/cut-out and if open, replace it including the hi-limit thermostat.

The cycling thermostat must also be replaced when replacing the thermal fuse. The cycling thermostat's failure to cycle off the heating element results in overheating of the dryer which consequently blows the thermal fuse open.




Replacing only the thermal fuse should the dryer stops running and fails to start will result in its premature blowing or even the thermal cut-out (cut-off) located on the heater duct. Like the cycling thermostat, the high-limit thermostat must also be replaced once the thermal cut-out blows open. Refer to the parts diagram in the link below and look for item numbers 31(thermal cut-off), 34(hi-limit thermostat), 39(thermal fuse), and 41(cycling thermostat.

Kenmore Series 70 Electric Dryer (110.74722400) Bulkhead Parts

It doesn't necessarily mean the heating element is busted when an electric dryer stops heating. The heating circuit is not just composed solely by the heating element, it is composed by the thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, motor centrifugal switch, and the timer. The first thing to look at when an electric dryer stops heating is the thermal cut-off. It cuts power to the heating element when it blows most likely due to the failure of the high-limit thermostat. The thermal cut-off must be replaced, together with the high-limit thermostat, if found open. Click on the link below for the detailed instructions in troubleshooting this problem.

Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-Made Electric Dryers (Filter on Top and with Removable Back Panel) Running But Not Heating

The thermal cut-off at the top of the heater duct/housing blows when the high-limit thermostat below it fails to cycle the heating element on and off properly to regulate the heater temperature. This thermal cut-off along with high-limit thermostat including the cycling thermostat on the blower housing are wired in series with the heating element and power to it is cut when the thermal cut-off blows as a safety feature to prevent fire. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components. Click on the link below for the detailed instructions in troubleshooting this problem.

Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-Made Electric Dryers (Filter on Top and with Removable Back Panel) Running But Not Heating

It doesn't necessarily mean the heating element is busted when the dryer stops heating and the thermal fuse is not part of the heating circuit, it is part of the motor circuit. The heating circuit is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The most common part that causes the dryer not to heat is the thermal cut-off and/or the high-limit thermostat. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components. Click on the link below for the detailed instructions. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

Troubleshooting Whirlpool and Whirlpool-Made Electric Dryers Running But Not Heating

The problem is obviously in the heating circuit which is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The most common part that causes the dryer not to heat is the thermal cut-off and/or the high-limit thermostat. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components.

Disconnect power then access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.


Dryers with lint filter on the front.


Dryers with lint filter on the top.

Also bypass the cycling thermostat if the dryer still doesn't heat with the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Check the heating element visually for obvious broken or damaged coil. An ohmmeter will be of great help in checking the resistance/continuity of the heating element. Replace the heating element if broken or damaged, NEVER attempt to repair it.

The problem is likely in the motor centrifugal switch if the dryer still doesn't heat with good heating element and the three components above bypassed. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

The problem is obviously in the heating circuit which is basically composed of the heating element, thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and the motor centrifugal switch. The most common part that causes the dryer not to heat is the thermal cut-off and/or the high-limit thermostat. Verify this condition by bypassing the said components.

Disconnect power then access the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat. Disconnect the wires of each component then connect them together and insulate it properly. Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed in the thermal cut-off (cut-out) and the high-limit thermostat if the dryer heats up. Replace both parts and it should solve the problem. It is an easy and cheap repair to make. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.


Dryers with lint filter on the front.


Dryers with lint filter on the top.

Also bypass the cycling thermostat if the dryer still doesn't heat with the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat bypassed. Check the heating element visually for obvious broken or damaged coil. An ohmmeter will be of great help in checking the resistance/continuity of the heating element. Replace the heating element if broken or damaged, NEVER attempt to repair it.

The problem is likely in the motor centrifugal switch if the dryer still doesn't heat with good heating element and the three components above bypassed. Indicate the exact model number of the dryer should you need further assistance.

Usually the Fixed Thermostat (also known as the High Limit Thermostat) and Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) are used in conjunction to regulate and protect the heating circuits.

The Cycling Thermostat (also know as the Internal Bias) controls the amount of heat required/desired to dry your clothes.

You need to remove the rear panel of the dryer to access the heating circuits on this model dryer. With the back panel removed, the heating circuits will be on the right hand side and the blower fan assembly is located on the left. The Hi-Limit Thermostat and TCO are located on the outside of the heater box with the Hi-Limit Thermostat mounted next to the heating element terminals and the TCO located at the opposite end of the heater box. The Cycling Thermostat is located on the blower fan housing next the Thermal Fuse. It will be the metallic round component, while the Termal Fuse will be a white plastic component.

For better clarification, you can view an exploded view diagram of your appliance at pcappliancerepair.com. If you type in your model number, all the parts I've mentioned are listed under Section 3 (Bulkhead Parts). The components are listed as follows:

Item 6 - TCO/Hi-Limit Thermostat Kit (both parts should be replaced at the same time).
Item 15 - Hi-Limit Thermostat (sold separately)
Item 23 - Thermal Fuse
Item 24 - Cycling (Internal Bias) Thermostat

If you are experiencing heating problems or longer dry times, please review the following link:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

Pay particular attention to the section that discusses dryer ventilation. The majority of dryer heat related problems and failures are attributed to poorly installed, clogged, or kinked dryer ventilation. If you haven't had the ducting checked in a while, now may be a good time to do so.

If you have any questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Change your cycling thermostat. When your cycling thermostat fails, then the reponsibility of your heating element to shut down goes to the high-limit thermal shut off (closest to heat element) and the thermal fuse. Your cycling thermostat should shut down heat element when it detects about 140* air in the blower housing. Yours can't detect that anymore so it lets your dryer heat up and up till you blow the thermal. new cycling thermostat and thermal