Question about Samsung AW0503B Air Conditioner

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Samsung AW0503B out of box new. has power to led lights but compressor and fan not running used power from other sources and checked with volt meter all ok. is there a reset on this AC ?

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  • Anonymous Aug 04, 2008

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  • Master
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Not that im aware of if it has an engenery save feature try running it on on all the time if it still doesnt work id take it back

Posted on May 21, 2008

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Why won't the compressor run


This can be for a variety of reasons. It ranges from something as simple as no supply power (blown fuse, open breaker, faulty contactor, or run capacitor) or it could be more serious as a grounded or open winding in the compressor motor. My suggestion to any novice and or person without proper tools and knowledge; First check the low voltage (24 volt control voltage) by turning on the "Fan on" switch located on the thermostat to on, not "Auto" The blower fan should come on, indicating there's 120 volt and 24 volt available. Fan doesn't come on is an indication that there's no control power. The next step would be to check for power at the transformer and fuse located in the air handler. There should be 240 volts feeding the transformer, and 24 volts coming out. The control voltage is needed to operate the thermostat (which is the switch that sends the 24 volt signal to the compressor contactor to turn the compressor on/off. This 24 volt also powers other relays and switches in the system. knowing that 24 volt is available also tells you that the problem is most likely in the condensing unit (outside, where the compressor is located). At the condensing unit you should check for 240 volt supply power. Upon finding 240 volt supply power the question now becomes whether or not the thermostat is calling for anything (cool or heat if the unit is a heat pump). There should be 24-30 volt available at the small gauge wires feeding the contactor coil. While having the thermostat set at a temperature lower than the current room temperature (in the cooling mode) the thermostat should send a 24 volt signal to close the compressor contactor and turn it on. The non-metallic end of a screwdriver can be used to depress the moveable part of the contactor. After pushing in the contactor, should the compressor start then you may only need a new contactor. It may just hum because of a faulty run capacitor or grounded or shorted internal motor windings (grounded or shorted windings are usually indicated by tripped circuit breaker and/or blown fuse). It's a good idea to have a good multi-meter and knowledge of use before attempting any repairs or diagnosis on your own. I recommend some basic knowledge of electricity before even thinking about attempting any repairs or diagnosis.

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First off, this is high voltage, do not attempt to repair this if you have not worked with 120 or 240 volts!

It may be the temperature control thermostat or the compressor. You will need a volt meter or a test lamp that is rated for the voltage your wing cooler uses. Check the voltage at the compressor (you might have to open a junction panel or box to gain access). If no voltage, unplug your cooler and check with a low voltage battery powered continuity lamp that the temperature control thermostat is at fault by turning it to the coldest setting. Connect the tester across the thermostat and if it does not light the thermostat is at fault.


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Is it just the fan or the compressor as well? Check the breakers at the main panel. If the compressor is running but not the fan...It's a bad fan motor, but I doubt it.

If you have a volt meter, check to see if you have voltage at the contactor, If you do, take a screw driver and push the contactor in, see if the compressor and fan runs. ( they run together)

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After switching the indoor unit to cool, the indoor fan starts and the light flashes, lower the temperature setting to 16 degree centigrade. When the light stops flashing the outdoor fan and the compressor start, if not check the wiring connection going to the compressor contactor. Check if there is power supplying the holding coil of the contactor. If the contactor works, check the power on both contact points by using a volt meter. If the outdoor fan only works, you need to check line working pressure. If the standing pressure is low, compressor will not start.

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2003 lincoln navigator. The air ride compressor will not come on. Checked all fusses and relays and they r good. The compressor will run when u straight wire it. Why won't it come on automatically?


I know you stated you checked all fuses and relay and they're ok but The 2003 Lincoln Navigator had two differently (wired) air ride systems. A early production and a late one, and I think I may have a good Idea of what your problem may be and will walk you through how to properly test the system. The early production navigators used a solid state compressor relay and the later production units used a standard style relay. The early ones with the solid state type has been known to have some problems and working for a Ford, Lincoln Dealer for 21 years I have replaced a good number of these solid state relay for a air ride compressor inoperative concern. There seems to be some confusion on the location of the solid state relay. I would advise you to look behind your front bumper on the passengers side of your vehicle (and below your headlight) and see if you have a 4 wire relay that's aluminum and finnd ribs on the front of it and I believe a black base where the wiring connector plugs in. (this will be mounted to the radiator support) if so, you Have got the early production style. I will walk you through how to test this relay and also help you to isolate the cause of your problem. I highly recommend using a volt ohm meter for these tests. I do not recommend using A TEST LIGHT due to the fact that you will be testing a circuit that is wired to the air ride control module, and there is a possibility of you damaging the module with a test light !!! I have been there, done that, NOT GOOD.
Ok with that said: your wire colors should be as follows:
one that's( gray and red)
another that's (light green and red)
another that's (dark blue and yellow)
and one that (light blue and pink).
Disconnect the connector at the relay and you'll be testing the wires in the connector (THAT HOOK UP TO THE RELAY). The air ride compressor and the air ride solid state relay share the same ground which is the light green and red wire.
Turn your volt ohm meter to dc volts scale and attach the black wire (NEGATIVE) lead of the volt ohm meter to the light green and red wire.
Hook the red lead of the volt ohm meter to the light blue and pink wire.
Here your volt meter should read battery voltage (of your car's battery) if not check the (F2-111) 50 amp designated fuse in the fuse box under the the dash on the passengers side (KICK PANEL).
If this fuse is ok, make sure you were making good contact with your test leads into the compressor relay connector.
If you're comfortable with the fact that you have a good connection at the relay connector and your fuse tested ok, then you have a ground problem at ground point G101 which is located right near the mounting location of the air ride relay.
If you had battery voltage when you tested between the (light green and red) and the light blue and pink wires, you have confirmed the power source and ground to the relay.
I should clarify myself at this point. The wires at the relay are as such: The ground is the light green and red wire, the light blue and pink is the fused power source to the relay, the dark blue and yellow wire is the relay trigger source from the air ride module to the air ride relay, and the grey and red is the relay output (battery +) to turn on the compressor. OK.
So now we're down to checking the trigger source to the relay and the relay output. At this point I want you to re-hook up the volt ohm meter with the meter still set at volts d/c scale and reconnect the (red lead) of the volt ohm meter to the (light blue and pink wire) and connect the (black) lead of the volt ohm meter to the dark blue and yellow wire (again at the relay connector).
Now this next step is best done with the help of an assistant!!
While watching your volt ohm meter, have your assistant turn on the key and open and close the drivers door two -to- three times. After cycling the door, you for a short time should see at least 5 volts minimum, if not battery voltage at your meter.
(this is a little bit unclear to me due to the fact the air ride module shows that the dark blue and yellow wire, as a ground from the air ride module to the relay. but does not clarify exactly what value that ground signal should be). I am referencing Fords own wiring diagram.
A solid state relay usally is allowed a trigger source of a lower voltage then a standard relay. If you find you have no voltage reading at your volt ohm on this test, you'll first want to check fuses F2-20 which is a 30 amp fuse and F2-27 which is a 5 amp fuse in the same fuse box as the F2-111 fuse you checked earlier.
The last test you need to make at the relay is checking the relay output to the compressor. This will be done by again using the volt ohm meter. This time you'll want to hook the black lead of the volt ohm meter to the light green and red wire at the reay connector and hook the red lead of the volt ohm meter to the grey and red wire at the relay connector. Again for this test, you'll need to have a assistant turn on the key, then recycle the drivers door again.
If the relay is working properly you should have battery voltage, aproximately 12 volts showing on your meter. If not and all other test procedures results were correct, you have a bad relay.
If you have 12 volts on this test we have confirmed the relay is good and the trigger signal from the air ride module is operating as designed.
If the pump runs like you said (when it is straight wired ) the remaining possiblity is a broke wire between the air ride relay to the air ride pump (this being the grey and red wire) which you can test by switching the volt ohm meter to the ohms scale and touching one lead of the meter to the grey and red wire at the relay connector and the other to the grey and red wire at the compressor (with the compressor and the relay both disconnected). Your reading here should be 0.5 ohms or less. If you have under 1.0 ohms you're ok but specs are 0. 5 or less.
If you have an auto ranging type ohm meter, be sure your reading in ohms and not kilo ohms or mega ohms.
If you find while performing the test from the air ride module to the air ride relay (dark blue and yellow wire) referenced as the trigger signal, incorrect and all fuses all checked o.k. then it is possible the air ride control module is defective. But, before condemning the module, there are a multitude of input signal;s to the module that would have to be checked.
WARNING: Make sure your tests are accurate. Good to check and re-check each test. Be confident of your results.
Inaccurate tests and inaccurate test results= unnecessary parts replacement. Results are large dollars spent when unneeded.
Hope this helps you out.thanks for using fixya

Jan 03, 2011 | 2003 Lincoln Navigator

1 Answer

Unit will not start up evaperator fan runs


Hi, if your indoor unit is running and you have high voltage to the outdoor unit as the compressor runs, I would check the control wires at the indoor unit, coming from the outdoor unit, and from the thermostat terminals to see if the condenser is wired correctly. I'm not sure what relay you are jumping out to get the compressor to run, and no fan, but if you look at the contactor where your high voltage leads connect, you can energize the contactor by pushing down on the plastic part of the contacts and the outdoor unit fan and all will start. Carefully, use a insulated screwdriver, or I have pushed them down with my finger to see, but be careful! You do have high voltage there or the compressor wouldn't have come on. If all runs when you do this, the thermostat control wires to the contactor have no 24 volt control voltage to it. Check your red and yellow wire connections. If you have a meter, check across the 2- for 24 volts. If you have no low voltage, this is your problem. Go to your indoor control section. If this unit has a circuit control board, look for a plug in type fuse like you would find in your car, a 3 to 5 amp fuse. Make sure its not blown. If the led light is on, it will be good. You have lost the low 24 volt power to run the outdoor unit. Check the wiring there, Red and Yellow. Make sure they are terminated. If none of this helps you or your not at ease doing these checks, call out the contractor and tell them that the outdoor unit will not run if it is new and just installed. They should have done a start up on it. Check the contactor first by pushing it down, it will spark but don't jump as it may scare you some. If all runs, check everything I have told you and you should find the problem. If you have any questions, contact me through this site by my user name, shastalaker7. Keep me posted.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7

Jun 16, 2010 | Fujitsu 24C1 Air Conditioner

1 Answer

Jeep cherokee 2000 heater fan does't run


If it doesn't run on any speed then check fuses and relay's under the hood in the power distribution box,if all are good then use a test light or volt meter on fan motor wires with fan switch set on high,if you have power there then replace fan motor,if the fan works on some speeds and not others than check the fan speed control module,it is located in the air duct on pass side below glove box.

May 03, 2010 | 2000 Jeep Cherokee

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