a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The fax machine can't detect a dial tone (from a POST line). Since the Pixma MX420 doesn't have a handset, you may need another telephone to check your line. First, make sure that the telephone cord to the wall jack is connected to the RJ-11 port marked L. This is the lower of the two ports on the all-in-one printer. If the cord is in the wrong spot, swap the connection. That could solve the issue. If you have a telephone plugged into the upper RJ-11 port, check if you hear a dial tone. (Connect your test phone here if you haven't had one connected and check for the dial tone.)
Next, unplug the RJ-11 line cord and plug it directly into your test phone. Do you hear a dial tone? If you do not hear a dial tone, try a different RJ-11 cable. If the problem is solved, connect this cord to the lower port on the MX420 and see if the fax continues to give the "offline" message. If you still have no dial tone, take your test phone to another jack and try again. Find your incoming phone service box and check if that has a RJ-11 jack. If it does, you can test for a dial tone there. If the box doesn't have a RJ-11 port, you can have your telephone provider check the service.
If there is no dial tone at the service box, then your telephone company will fix the external problem for free. (With copper telephone service, sometimes rodents damage the wires. The provider has to fix this.) If you had a dial tone at the service box or another jack, then you have an internal wiring problem. This could be at the jack or inside a wall. If you take off the outlet cover, you'll find the wiring for the jack. This will either have screws holding down the stripped ends of the conductor wires or a punch-down keystone (with un-stripped wires). For the jack with the screw terminals, determine if any wire is loose/broken and strip a new section of wire. Then re-secure the wire under the correct screw. See http://www.lanshack.com/wire_phone_jack.aspx for a diagram. For the punch-down keystone, you'll need a special tool to reconnect the conductor wire. This tool is available at most hardware stores in the electrical wiring section.
If the problem isn't at a jack, you'll have to try to find the broken wire and replace the wire. Your telephone company's service technician will fix the problem for a fee.
If you have an internet connection with a DSL filter, you should check if the filter is damaged. This can lead to the above problems. If you have switched to a VOIP service, you'll need to make sure that it is compatible with the POST connection for the fax machine.
usually humming is caused by defective cables. Check if the cable is wired correctly. Open both XLR plugs and check:
Pin 1 shield
Pin 2 hot (usually red wire)
Pin 3 cold (black, blue or whatever)
Pinnumbers are written near pins usually.
If that doesn't help shake the cable for contact issues.
The microphone could have a broken shield connections as well. Maybe there's a small screw near the XLR output connector. Unscrew (sometimes this screw needs to be turned CLOCKWISE) and check connections.
I would suspect that possibly you have a broken ethernet cable installed somewhere, the best way to quickly check is to check the port indicator lights on the back of your router, there will be four ports labelled 1-4, on the link that you are having trouble with are there any activity lights. On means working but no activity Flashing means data is passing through the link Off means nothing is connected (or in this case the cable is broken) if you find this is not the case please can you tell me what computer you have with what operating system, so i can show you how to check other settings
A screen Inverter is used to convert the power (Electricity), from the laptop; for the LCD screen, and Backlight. Note* Laptops that use a series of LED's for a Backlight, do not use a screen Inverter.
Primer over. A) An external display device, such as a VGA monitor for example; should be connected to the laptop ->First; to make sure the graphics chipset is OK.
I believe it is OK, but this is a diagnostic flowchart, and the graphics chipset HAS to be eliminated as the problem; Before going on.
Laptop OFF, monitor OFF, connect a VGA monitor to the VGA port, on the laptop.
The VGA port is right in the middle, on the back of the laptop. Here is an example of a VGA port,
(Scroll down for example of VGA Cable) You can use a CRT type of monitor (Looks like a small TV), or a flat LCD screen monitor if it has a VGA cable.
With this laptop you can also plug a DVI connector, from a flat LCD screen monitor (Usual connector for digital flat screen), and use it instead. It's the white(?) port right next to the VGA port. (Closer to Left side, than VGA port) Example of a DVI port, and DVI cable,
Turn the monitor on. If a CRT type allow it to warm up. Turn the laptop on.
There are at least 3 display options; 1) Internal monitor of laptop ONLY 2) Internal monitor of laptop AND external display device 3) External display device ONLY
Press the Fn key, hold it down; and tap once on the F5 key. (The F5 key is the Display Toggle-Over key) Still no graphics on external display device? Hold the Fn key down again, and tap once more on the F5 key.
Good graphics on external monitor = Go on. Bad graphics on external monitor = Problem with the mounting of the graphics chipset; to motherboard. Or bad graphics chipset. (Not very common)
B) Video Cable: The Video Cable connects to the motherboard, up under the Keyboard. (And Top Cover's metal Static Shield) From there it routes up under the left Hinge, and up into the Display Assembly.
The main part of the Video Cable, then connects to the back of the LCD screen. There is also a separate cable coming from the Video Cable, that connects to one side of the screen Inverter.
The thin plastic 'frame' in front of the LCD screen, is the Display Bezel. The screen Inverter is a small long circuit board; located behind the Display Bezel, and mounted down towards the bottom of the Screen Frame. Basic example,
Due to just normal repeated opening, and closing of the laptop; the Video Cable can become pinched, then pulled on. This can lead to a loose connection at the motherboard side; and/or back of LCD screen. (Also check screen Inverter connection)
Can also cause damage to the tiny wires inside the Video Cable. (Stretched/Broken) If there is obvious signs of damage to the sheath of the Video cable, there may be damage to the tiny wires inside.
To add; with age the insulation of the tiny wires inside the Video Cable, can deteriorate. This can lead to exposed wires inside the sheath of the Video Cable, and lead to their touching each other.
It is best to perform a continuity check, with a multimeter set to OHM's. (1K) Check each wire. Also have an assistant gently wiggle the Video Cable, as you check it. (Fluctuation of reading of multimeter, indicates a broken wire) If you do not have access to a multimeter, perhaps take the cable down to the nearest small computer repair shop; and see if they will run a continuity test for you. (Few bucks)
The Video Cable's condition, and connections; HAVE to be checked before going on. You MUST rule the Video Cable out as the problem.
Problem here is there is no Service Manual; nor guides in how to disassemble, that I have found; nor has one come into the shop. (Made in what? 2006? Hmmm?)
Looking at the reviews of it, to see what it looks like; the laptop looks to be the type of model that the Keyboard is removed, then the Top Cover (Upper Case); THEN access to the motherboard side of the Video Cable, can be gained.
Fun stuff, huh?
ALL power is removed. Remove the AC adapter (Charger), and Battery. Use a multi-compartment container for the various screws you will remove. Label each compartment for the area the screw/s come out of. SOME screws look VERY similar to other screws. Advise DO NOT mix them up.
Basically follow what this gentleman is doing. Screw locations may not be the same for the inside area on the bottom; but will have screws that go around the perimeter of the Base Enclosure. (Bottom Cover)
Also on yours, look down in the Battery Compartment for screws to remove, and when the DVD drive is removed, see if any screws are along the 'lip'. The outside edge of the laptop; where the outside edge of the DVD drive was. (Going from bottom view towards the Top Cover, there may be screws in that 'lip')
Look along the compartment opening edges, too. (Along the lines of the one's he found ) Ram Memory compartment, etc.
The Keyboard has Tabs on the bottom edge. The edge that faces you, not LCD screen side.
(Click on photo to enlarge) When the Keyboard is removed, it is slightly tilted up on the LCD screen side; and then moved forward a little. (LCD screen side) If you lift the Keyboard straight up, you may break the Keyboard tabs, and/or Top Cover.
The top of the Keyboard has Detents. May be 3 to 4. (Maybe 5) The Detents are small (Very) rectangular shaped, and right above the Keyboard. Once depressed with a flat tipped Jeweler's screwdriver, the Keyboard can be slightly lifted in that area. (LCD screen side) Then go to the next one, and slightly lift the Keyboard, and so on.
The Keyboard Cable STAYS attached to the Keyboard. It has NO connector on the motherboard end. (No plug connector) It is a Flat Flex Cable.
After all screws are removed, the Top Cover pops loose. The Top Cover has Tabs, and the Base Enclosure (Bottom Cover), has matching Latches.
Look for screw covers going around the perimeter, of the Display Bezel. These are usually plastic, or synthetic rubber. I just gently pry up on one side of the cover, and then pry it up, and off.
The screw covers are attached with a type of rubber cement. If carefully pried off, the screw cover, and it's glue may be reused. [ Most of the time. I stick them (L-I-G-H-T-L-Y) to the Display Bezel, for safekeeping ]
Now remove the Philips head screws. The Display Bezel is gently pried off, by flexing one side; and sliding your fingertips under it. (On LCD screen side. I wear computer gloves. You may wish to cut a cereal box, or similar cardboard; to fit the inside edges of the Display Bezel; and protect the LCD screen from your fingernails )
Work along heading towards the Top, and around. Once the Display Bezel has popped about halfway, or more off; the Display Bezel should come the rest of the way off all at once.
Remove the screws which hold the LCD screen to Display Cover. Tilt the top of the LCD screen towards you; so you can access the Video Cable connection; to LCD screen.
Continuity check reveals the Video cable to be OK? Connections were tight? Replace the screen Inverter.
Testing a screen Inverter = using a Sensitive multimeter. Read fairly expensive,
it could be three issues. 1.) The battery is dead. 2.) The cable charger is a cut wire or is faulty 3.) The charging port on your phone is broken and not delivering power to the phone. If it is the battery or cable, you can purchase new ones from many online sites, such as Amazon. If the charging port on the phone is broken, you must call your cell phone provider and let them now. This way they can send you a replacement as soon as possible!
have you tried the same cable in all 4 ports?
If it works in all the ports, plug the other cables in and reboot everything. PC,s modem and router.
You may be getting ip address conflict, rebooting should cure it.
If the same cable just works in 1 port, the router is broken
Your going to need to clean the fan/heatsink assembly..
On the cq60, this means complete disassembly of all parts and components...in order to get to the fan properly, the motherboard will need to be removed..
Remove All screws on the underside of Laptop, Remove Covers..(hard drive,RAM,Wifi).. Pull Out CDrom....Remove the 3 screws from cdrom area.....Flip Over.. Open Screen, Pull Media Strip (above Keyboard) Away from Laptop... Be carefull Here, There are Fragile ribbon cables attached to this on the left underside .. Now Unscrew Keyboard Screws And Pull Keyboard away, THere's a ribbon cable here too attached to the motherboard,, Unlock the ribbon cable at the motherboard port(tab on each side pulls forward).. Remove Palmrest Screws.. Pull the Wifi Cables through the Motherboard upperside, Detach any plug/wires... Unscrew Screen Hinge Posts and pull screen away... Remove the 1 screw holding the rear strip of plastic---unsnap the plastic strip at back end of palmrest area... Pull palmrest away... Unscrew The Media Card Bay and the CDrom Port Board(left side).... Remove the 2 motherboard screws on the bottom left side front... Unplug the long cable port on the front underside of motherboard right in the middle.... Lift up the motherboard slightly.. pulling it up from the left rear side..... You will see the DC Jack Power Cable Right There Under The Motherboard... This Needs To Be Unplugged...--Pull The Motherboard Up About 2 inches and reach under to unplug the DC Jack Wire Port Plug...and the usb plug wire...
Now continue to remove motherboard Flip Over And Remove Heatsink Fan Assembly... Unplug Fan... Disassemble Fan And Clean FAn And Heatsink Fins...
just have to take off the plastic flexible casing it is screwed to the head. then you can pull the old wire out, if it it broken take out the plastic bellow and the 2 screws that are underneath that. then u can pull the remain of the old[broke shatf wire. To unscrew the casing use a plier and hold the metal piece not the plastic or u will broke it. \ REMENBER THE CASING IS NOT THE VACUUM HOSE IS UNDER IT.
you don't need the connector that broke off. Do you have a cable box ? if so use the video output. That's the yellow, red and white leads. hook them to the video 1 in on your set. switch the set to video 1. If you don't have a cable box use a vcr or combo vcr dvd with a tunner.
I had the same problem with the shifter cable braking.They were very expensive to replace.My cable tube(the outer part with the adjustable nuts) was still good.The cable itself was broken.I went to the nieghborhood hardware store and bought a length of cable of the correct size.I then used an electrical eyelet at each end (the eyelet has place to slide wire into it then it get crimped to hold the wire,also it has a hole in it so a screw or bolt can go through to hold it in place.I connected an eyelet to one end of cable,2nd I fed the cable through the tube,3rd, I put a screw through the hole were the cable connect to the shift linkage(@ trans),4th placed the eyelet on the screw 5th then placed the nut on the screw .At end of cable where shift nob is I placed an eyelet where the cable originally went,Pulled the new cable through taking out ALL the slack,Marked cable then crimped it,placed nut on screw.It works like new.MAKE SURE THE LINKAGE and SHIFT NOB ARE IN NUTURAL POSITION