Fridgidaire side by side door popping follow up : will this work?
Hi, not sure why my posts are getting all mixed up and separated.
Anyway, thanks for your reply. Maybe you saw my original post with all the info. However, Your post is completely confusing to me, I don't get what you are saying. The attachments to the door are correct, a three hole metal 'hinge' at top, and an 'L' shaped bracket connector/hinge at bottom.
The top one does have a second set of holes for slightly moving placement on the top of the door, but I can tell they are likely in the same spot/holes that they have always been.
My problem is door noise, and I've been convinced by more than one person that the problem is at the bottom of the fridge door, even though sound is very loud at top of door when opened and then when closed.
Well, seems to be what someone here called a 'CAM' but what another site with schematics, and parts diagrams, called a 'BEARING - HINGE". It's a cheap plastic looking part piece that seems to just fit over the metal rod at the bottom and goes into the hole of the door bottom, sort of a sleeve like thing. Then the door itself just goes on to the L bracket connection piece to the door.
Is this the CAM that someone spoke of? Would this create the noise? Is replacing it at this point likely to fix and get rid of the loud pop noise?
these are essentially my questions, if you or anyone can help at this point I'd really really appreciate it very much. Thanks.
My original post is still up in the FRIDGIDAIRE FRS3R5EMB Side By Side category if referencing is needed. Again, my replies and follow ups, and questions to the original answer tech seem to be creating new posts now, and I don't know what's happening. Hopefully someone can piece together this and help me to understand if this problem is fixable with a simple added or replaced door part.
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DTC B1340 Air Mix Door #1 Movement Problem !
The heater and A/C programmer supplies voltage to an internal motor that drives the air mix door. The heater and A/C programmer monitors the air mix door position feedback from a sensor on the motor. If the air mix door is requested to move but the feedback voltage does not change, the heater and A/C programmer will store DTC B1340. If the air mix door feedback indicates that the feedback is near the hot or the cold extreme, the DTC will not set. Evaluate the operation of the air mix door through self diagnostics as described in the test description.
Perform the Diagnostic System Check before continuing with the diagnosis of this DTC.
A Scan Tool allows for the direct control of the air mix door by observing the following conditions:
• The air mix door position feedback value
• The value`s difference from the air mix door commanded position value
These readings indicate a fault internal to the heater and A/C programmer in the air mix door sensor feedback.
Did you perform the Diagnostic System Check?
Go to Step 2
Go to Diagnostic System Check
With the engine running, connect a Scan Tool .
Turn the dual zone to OFF (passenger temperature offset at 0 or OFF).
Exercise the suspect actuator using the temperature control on the control assembly.
Is the door being commanded (COM) to the proper high and low values?
COM High 100 %
COM Low 0 %
Go to Step 3
Go to Step 4
If you are unfamilier with this , i suggest you take it to a ASE certified repair shop or the dealer .
THIS FRONT LOAD WASHER HAS AN ELECTRONIC SWITCH THAT SNAPS INTO THE LOCK MECHANISM. MINE POPPED OUT OF THE 2 CLIPS THAT HELD IT IN PLACE, SO WHEN I CLOSED THE DOOR, THE LOCK LIGHT DID NOT LIGHT AND THE DOOR DID NOT LOCK. HAD ALL KINDS OF ADVICE THAT DIDN'T WORK. UNPLUG THE WASHER, REMOVE O RING AROUND RUBBER BOOT. REMOVE THE FRONT PART OF THE BOOT. THEN YOU JUST REMOVE THE LOCK MECHANISMS, 2 SCREWS IN THE FRONT. PULL THE LOCK MECHANISM HOUSING TO THE SIDE, BE CAREFUL OF THE CONNECTED WIRES, THEN LOOK WITH A FLASHLIGHT. IF THE SMALL SWITCH BOX IS OUT OF PLACE, THEN POP IT BACK IN. THIS PROBLEM STARTED WHEN I WAS CLOSING THE DOOR TOO HARD AND QUICKLY. SO BE GENTLE WHEN CLOSING YOUR DOOR. THE ARM THAT LIFTS TO HIT THE SWITCH THAT TURNS THE DOOR LOCK LIGHT ON AND LOCKS THE DOOR, IS PLASTIC.
There is a problem with the drivers side air mix valve. I have seen several problems with these. Sometimes the air mix valve (door) gets stuck and when you try to change it the air mix valve link can pop loose, or sometimes it breaks. Sometimes it also breaks the bellcrank on the door itself. The programmer unit can also be defective. Please refer to the picture below. The thing to do is to remove the lower hush panel and possibly the glove box assembly so you can get a good look at what is going on. Then switch the driver's temperature control from hot to cold and back again to observe the movement of the programmer actuator, the mix valve link, etc. to determine where the malfunction is.
I have seen this complaint before and would like to help you solve this. At the moment Fixya is not able to post links just text. My email address is email@example.comPlease comfirm your model number. I offer free solutions and answers to your problems. my web page is below, Thanks, Sea Breezehttp://servicepartstec.blogspot.com/
After reading these posts, I fixed my refrigerator door in less than 5
minutes. The little black plastic cam on the bottom hinge was loose.
To fix it, take the hinge cover off of the top with an 8mm socket, and
remove the three 8mm screws holding the top hinge on. Remove the door
by lifting up off of the bottom hinge and set it aside. On the bottom
hinge is a black plastic cam held on by an 8mm screw. The screw on
mine was really loose. Tightening it and putting the door back on made
it work like new. You probably don't have a bad cam, just a loose one.
YOUR LID SWITCH IS BAD,POP THE TOP FIND THE WIRE JACK TO SWITCH CUT BOTH OUTSIDE WIRES,WIRE NUT THEM TOGETHER,MADE SURE YOU UNPLUG MACHINE FIRST,YOUR MACHINE WILL NOW WORK BUT WHEN YOU LIFT THE LID ON FILL OR SPIN IT WILL NOT TURN OFF,SO KEEP YOUR HANDS OUT OF THERE,THE LIP SWITCH CONTROLS FILL AND SPIN,THANKS-MIKE
I had the exact same issue with my Cornue Fe (only on the right hand side oven). The other symptom I noticed was that the door itself didn't close as smoothly as the left hand side oven.
Take a look at the alignment of the "post" sticking out from the oven relative to the spring loaded catch on the door. These need to be *very* well aligned vertically in order to keep the door closed as it heat cycles. You'll notice that the post has a depression at the end of it (furthest away from the door). The door catch has an upper and lower spring loaded roller that is supposed to "catch" on both sides of the depression. If you are misaligned vertically, then only one side of the catch will be applying sufficient force to the depression.
In my case, the post and the catch were misaligned by about 4-6mm. In fact, I noticed that repeated opening & closing of the door was actually causing some wear on the upper roller of the catch. To fix, I needed to raise the door, which was accomplished by adjusting the hinges.
I removed the door from the oven, which can be done by removing the screws on the hinges. The hinges consist of a bottom & top knob that slot into the door (similar to the way refrigerator hinges work). The hinges themselves are made of ~1/4" metal (could be stainless, but it's relatively soft stainless). I put the lower hinge in a vise (appropriate covering to prevent scratching) and *gently* bent it up to adjust the door upwards. Putting it back together required some help (the door is heavy), but after a bit of work it was all back. Thankfully the alignment was right the first time. This whole process took about 20 minutes.
In my case, I suspect that either the wife or kids had put too much weight on the door at some point and bent it out of alignment. The problematic door had about 4-6mm of "play" between the top and bottom hinges prior to my adjustment--the working door had zero "play". You might want to check to see if you have any such play before you do this work (you can either look at the hinge itself or simply lift up on the door at the hinge point to see if it moves). If you don't have this same play, but you do have misalignment, then you'll need to adjust both top and bottom hinges.
The other possiblity is that you might have a weak spring in the catch mechanism. You can check that by gently pushing a flat head screwdriver in between the two rollers and feeling for how much force is required to separate them.
Of course, you can also just call the La Cornue service folks and have them check it out.
It is most likely the pop came from a relay on the control board if the elements checked ok but not getting power to them. This is fairly common on fridgidaire ranges. Replace the oven control. Usually the control overlay is sold as a separate piece.
Chances are the door panels separate as shown in the photo I have attached below.
Panel replacement can usually be done without removing the door from the microwave.
In cases where it is felt that door removal is necessary, I recommend detaching the door from the hinges.
I generally do not advise removing the hinges from the microwave.
Whenever the hinges are removed, great care must be taken to put them back in the very same position they were in.
Failure to do so can cause microwave leakage, which can cause risk of skin burns, fire, and disruption of nearby electronic devices.
You can find exploded view diagrams and order parts here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383
We have critical safety and disassembly info at our site, which is linked at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk