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Whirlpool duet ht washer leaks - Whirlpool Washing Machines

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MY ROPER WASHER LEAKS ALOT OF WATER OUT OF THE SIDE OF IT WHEN WHEN IT DRAINS. HOW DO I FIX IT?

Posted on Jul 12, 2008

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SOURCE: Whirlpool duet washer leaking from bottom back..

sounds like you need to check your back drain could be the drain is clogged.Fill with water and see if it comes from the drain

Posted on Nov 06, 2007

aborcass
  • 2651 Answers

SOURCE: Door reversal for Whirlpool Duet

there is no reversing the door on the washer. the door on the dryer can be reversed and with the execption of a few of the earlier models no kit is required(even then was just a trim kit). is switching theposition of the 2 appliances an option?? as far as wsher vibrating through house heres a new product receiving great response http://www.keshakeaway.com/servlet/StoreFront

Posted on Mar 13, 2008

  • 10865 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool Duet Sport HT - Left Front occ. leaks a lot of water

hello. i dont have to tell you that these intermittent problems are often the most difficult to isolate ...........sooooooooooooo lets look at all of the possible causes for your machine leaking

Your washer can develop several types of leaks. You can track down a leak based on when it occurs:

During fill only
During drain and spin only
All the time
During fill only If the washer leaks only during the fill cycle, check these:

  • Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.

  • The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.

  • Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.

During drain and spin only A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

All the time If the washer leaks all the time, check these:

  • Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.

  • Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.

  • Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.

  • Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.

Posted on Aug 22, 2009

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: whirlpool duet sport ht washer error code f-24

This advice is for Whirlpool Duet and Kenmore Elite model FRONT LOADERS displaying the "F24" Error Code. Some of the error codes on these model washers can be erroneous, however. The first step in troubleshooting any error code is to simply unplug the washer for AT LEAST 30 minutes in an attempt to reset the Central Control Unit (CCU). This is the main "brain" of the washing machine. If the error code reappears following a CCU reset, then you have a genuine problem.

"F24" is an indication of a water temperature sensor (NTC) error, or Heating Circuit failure. Check the Water Temperature Sensor and check connections to the Water Temperature Sensor.

To access, you will have to UNPLUG your washer and remove the lower access panel under the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: If you place a 2 x 4 under the front feet of the washer, it will make access to the screws much easier. If the panel sticks, a tap on the sides will knock it free. The panel will drop down then come off. The sensor (NTC) is located at the base of the wash tub in the front on the heating element. This will be a small square shaped plug between the heating element terminals. Make sure this plug is secure and not loose or unplugged. It is common for the connector plug to come loose due to vibration. If the plug is intact, check the contacts for corrosion. If everything appears as it should, then unplug the wire harness and take a resistance check. Readings will be as follows:

Temperature Meter Reading
32°F (0°C) 35.9 K ohms
86°F (30°C) 9.7 K ohms
104°F (40°C) 6.6 K ohms
122°F (50°C) 4.6 K ohms
140°F (60°C) 3.2 K ohms
158°F (70°C) 2.3 K ohms
203°F (95°C) 1 K ohms

Roughly...around 9K ohms at room temperature if I'm reading the chart correctly. Take readings as listed and also double check the connector to make sure it is not oxidized. Try cleaning the plug and reconnecting to see if the error code goes away. If not, you will probably have to replace the sensor. If the sensor checks good, take a reading across the heating element terminals. It should indicate about 15 ohms.

Lastly, remove the washer top panel by removing the three screws holding the panel in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, slide the panel back then off. Locate the Central Control Unit (CCU) directly behind the wash tub. Take a resistance check at the Heating Element Solenoid by removing connector 9 from the CCU (this is the second connector from the RIGHT as facing from the front). A reading across test points 1 & 2 should also read 15 ohms.


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Posted on Sep 21, 2010

  • 2118 Answers

SOURCE: whirlpool duet ht washer make

you could have a broken shock but most of the time it's a damaged spider gear and you'll need to replace the washer because the part alone is 500 bucks.you're using to much detergent and it eats at the spider gear and it falls apart

Posted on Oct 21, 2010

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Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

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Remove the 3 screws at the bottom of the front panel under the washer door. Your filter door will be light brown. If you find a hose there it is to drain out excess water (water that could not be drained by your pump) After you hv drained unscrew the cap and remove all the junk inside. Have a large plastic bag to catch junk and water. Refit carefully after cleaning out. If not solved, something shd be blocking your pump, check this out

How abt a nice rating for the free help? Thnks

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WHIRLPOOL DUET HT FRONT LOADING WASHER


This is a strange problem. I work on these all day, and never have a problem getting these boards. Might want to try and calling local part houses for this part.

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