Question about Haier HTE18WAA Top Freezer Refrigerator
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
There are 2 things that cause these to not defrost. Kinda like the "Achilles heel" of GE fridges. The first one is the Defrost heater itself. And the second is the evaporator thermister (GE calls it a "sensor"). They are both very easy to replace. The part numbers are; WR51X10101 (heater) and WR55X10025 (sensor). If you don't have a local appliance parts retailer, just plug those numbers into a search engine. I highly recommend getting both parts because if the sensor hasn't failed yet, it will. The same goes for the heater...
Now for the fun stuff... Turn the temp knobs all the way counter clockwise to kill power to the fridge. Unload all the food from the freezer and remove all the shelves and the basket. Remove the screws that are holding the evap panel (the flat panel on the back wall, it's about 2 1/2 ft tall). Remove the panel to expose the evaporator. You'll see the heater at the very bottom of the evap connected by 2 screws, remove these and pull the heater out. Your new heater comes with instructions on how to install it.
After you have done that, look at the top of the evap. On the left, you'll see a little white sensor clipped to one of the evap tubes (shiny little clip), that has 2 wires feeding it. Remember which tube it's clipped to then unclip the sensor and pull it toward you. Snip the wires right at the base of the old sensor and completely remove it (leave the wires in there). Now separate those 2 wires and strip about 3/8" of insulation off. At this point, you are ready to follow the instructions that came with your new "sensor". Oh! and if it's all frosted up on the evap? Take this time (before you re-install the panel) to use a blow dryer and melt it away. All that'll be left to do is rebuild it.
There ya go! Job completion time= ~45 minutes. Easy breezy, right?
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Posted on Apr 05, 2009
The small cooling fan in the freezer compartment that sends chilled air to the food side is defective and needs replacement. Sometimes that are only frozen stuck.
When you receive advice from this website you have to understand that without the item in front of us, we are only able to provide "a best guess" as to what the problem might be based on you description of the defect. If you haven't described a clear and precise description of the defect you decrease the chances of an accurate reply. Thank you.
Posted on Apr 29, 2009
You have a defrost problem. Most likley a defrost heater if it's a side by side. If you unload the freezer so that you can get to the inside back wall, take the screws out of the inside back wall. Remove the panel from the back wall. Take a hair dryer and melt the ice that has formed behind the panel. (DO NOT USE A SHARP OBJECT TO CHIP ICE OUT) You can then see the defrost heater. If you put it back together the refrig, will work correctly for around three days. If the heaters are glass, you will be able to see if they are broken or the filliment is broken inside. If so you will need new ones. You will need the make, model number and serial number. to buy the new part.
Posted on Aug 15, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Aug 17, 2014 | Refrigerators
the back wall or floor of the freezer section for frost. Check the freezer (
evaporator) fan to see if it is running. Check the condenser coils under the
unit for blockage from dust. Check the condenser fan (under the unit) to see if
it is running.
If you have frost in the freezer there is a problem with the defrost system and the freezer will start to warm eventually as well as the fresh food section. If that is the problem you can check the defrost terminator, defrost heater/s, and the defrost timer or adaptive defrost control If used on your unit or the main control board if so equipped. These things usually require dismantling the freezer and other areas of the refrigerator to be checked.
can be many factors for the no cooling factor: the condenser coils could be
blocked with dust, the condenser fan could be bad or stuck, the freezer fan
could be stuck or bed, the freezer coils could be blocked with frost because
the self-defrost system is not working or the compressor is not running because
of a bad relay etc.
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