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Re: Reading the light meter on my camera
You didn't mention whether your Rebel was a film version or digital, but as best I can see from the manuals they are quite similar with regards to your question.
The camera does have a light metering function, but you won't see a needle like some of the older film cameras had. Instead, you will see in the viewfinder the shutter speed and the aperture settings. For example, 500 4.5 would indicate that the camera has determined that the shutter speed will be 1/500th of a second and the aperture f/4.5 to properly expose the shot. Depending on what mode you are in, you can control one or both of these numbers. If either number (or both) are flashing, it indicates that the shot will be overexposed or underexposed, and you must take some type of corrective action that the camera cannot do itself with the current mode settings.
Canon has manuals available online for all the digital Rebels and many of the film Rebels. See this link. Select EOS (SLR) Camera Systems in the top box, and choose the appropriate categories in the next two boxes, then click Go.
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I owned this lens and didn't have that problem, but I always ALWAYS used the lens hood, and 99% of the time had a slim 77mm circular polarizer on there as well since my use for it was mainly landscapes and mainly during daylight hours. Does your camera have lens profiles for automatically correcting known lens issues? As a Band-Aid solution you could dial your exposure compensation down to -1.00 or so when shooting 10-14mm. It's a pain, but better than blown highlights...
You might also try different metering modes. I tend to use partial metering and choose a spot with "average" light in my shot, then lock the exposure, autofocus, then shoot. Sometimes evaluative metering might read too many darks in such a wide framing and overcompensate - just a theory.
This model does not have a live view capability. To compose the shot you must use the viewfinder and then you can check the result on the lcd screen. This the norm on semi professional and professional DSLR's
I'm afraid you can't view the image on the rear screen before you take the shot. On cameras like these,( semi and professional DSLR's) this is the norm. You view and compose the shot through the viewfinder and then you can check the result and view all your shots on the lcd screen afterwards
Check the mountin type of the old lens, I use nikon myself and can use my old 50mm lens from a FG on my D70- as they have the same bayonet mounting. Though doing this the camera will only take a shot when it is set to manual- and I'm unable to use the D70's light meter. If your looking to fix a really old screw in lens to your rebel- i imagine you will have hunt around for an adaptor of some sort. Seein as thats something I have never done had a root around some resources i use- maybe this will help you a bit more, be warned its fairly dense reading material.
Another thing using a non-digital lens on a digital body can cause problems- something to do with the lens being designed to put a image onto a 35mm shot of film and not a little digital sensor- You'll probably find that what you see in the viewfinder does not appear in the final image. Fairly sure there are conversion tables for the size of lens and what it shoots when used on a digi- body. For example a 50mm lens will be giving a image area equivelant to using a 85mm lens (thats off the top o my head), I'm fairly sure this varies from camera but that info is fairly easy to find.
Auto Focus does not determine exposure. Only sharpness. "Wrong" exposure could be due to the metering mode being set in Spot Metering. Set it back to Evaluative Metering which may improve the overall even exposure of your shots. Test your shots in full auto or P mode. M (Manual) mode will require you to check the exposure setting manually (you can see the indicator in the viewfinder when you half-press the trigger)
You will need to read the manual. I f you have a basic
understanding of how ISO, shutterspeed & Aperture width
combine to determine the 'right exposure.
Set the camera to Av (aperture priority mode). Half press the shutter
button and see the light meter indicator to see how well exposed your
shot will be. For most cases you would be aiming for a value of 0
(properly exposed). The metering mode determines what part of the frame
is used to compute the correct amount of light. For starters begin with
pattern metering. Try and aim for a shutter speed of 1/125 or more if
you are using the 17-55 mm EF-S f3/5-f5.6. Try and shoot at 40 mm F/5.6
(in Av mode this can be set by rotating the dial near the shutter
All the best
On most DSLR cameras you cannot compose or shoot using the LCD screen. The ability to preview the image using the LCD is fairly new to SLR's, and is known as "live view" on most models. So, like yourAE1, you still need to compose using the eye-level finder, then review your effort on the LCD later.
(metering mode on first menu1) evaluative metering - standard setting, takes account off all areas of scene. Partial metering - effective when background is much brighter than the subject due to backlighting etc. Centre weighted average metering - the metering is weighted at the centre then averaged for entire scene. ------ pressing the right hand button of the two little ones top right corner of camera brings up display on lcd, using thumb wheel you can select where the metering takes place. in the viewfinder the display lights a red dot for areas selected.
Try these settings to see if this helps in your situation.
Unless you have a Rebel XSi with "live view", you're not going to see the image on the LCD before you take the picture. No digital SLR made before 2007 had this option. You compose your picture using the optical viewfinder, and only see your picture after you have taken it. (But at least you don't have to wait until the film is developed. ;-) )