Whenever I go to make a cut, I seem to do O.K., then the chain comes off the bar. When I put it back on it is very stiff and hard to pull through the bar. Also, once I have tightened the the bar into place and start the chainsaw uyp, I find that the gear will not move the chain.
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chains that come loose that fast , and is not a cause of a weak bar bolt slipping , for sure is caused by improper oiling of chain and its overheating , heat makes metal expand so chain goes slack if it gets hot
I think this is one of those cutter blade type of trimmers , I do know you have to keep blades razor sharp to cut anything with them , as they do tend to go dull easy (by design) , id go with a pole pruner chain saw if your looking to replace it , but beware as pruner chain blades and chain saws are not interchangeable due to fact that pruner's are made to cut on both sides of bar , chainsaws only cut on down stroke hence have a much more aggressive chain rake , don't put a chain for this on a pruner saw you'll be putting your self at risk of injury
I have found that the number one reason for a loose chain is from stretching, and that comes from heat or clearing small brush.
Heat being that it is not oiling properly and wears quicker, and the small brush answer (cutting lots of 1/2 in Buckthorn) tends to jerk the chain and manually stretches rather than a steady cut in a log which tends to be smoother.
With that said, yours might be something else. If I can ask a few question... When the saw was purchased, did you install the bar and chain? Second your level of experience - and is this your first saw. What I need to rule out is that the bar could be on wrong.
This saw was more than likely built by Poulan and it should have 2 nuts holding the bar. Does the bar loosen up? If the answer is no you might have a bar that is miss matched to the chain. What that means is that the chains "drivers", the tooth that is down in the bar could be a .050 and the bar could be a .063, hence the chain wobbles more that it should and might be more prone to jumping off.
Solution: Replace bar and chain and make sure they are a matched, lastly, always cut with a sharp chain.
First, don't cut nails as you will dull the blade in seconds. Is the safety anti-kickback bar shoved into position. That applies a chain brake that can spark if you can get the engine started with it engaged. Other than that, inspect for the chain running into stuff it should not. Assuming you have put oil in the chain bar reservoir and pumped the pump a few times to get some pre-lube on the chain & bar;.
The tension of the blade probably needs to be adjusted. In general there should be about an eight of an inch of clearance between the chain and bar when the chain is pulled away from the bar but you should check the manual to see what gap is recommended. If the chain is blunt and overheating, it can expand and become loose rapidly. The slack in a chain should be taken up in any case after a period of cutting to avoid an if the chain comes off the bar.The procedure for adjusting the tension is to loosen the nuts holding the bar, adjust the tension and then tighten the nuts securely.
The chain only comes off the bar if, the chain has become lose and de railed, or if the timber you are cutting is very springy and you are trapping it in the cut, our twisting it in the cut, if the saw is not oiling the chain correctly it will stretch and if not addressed will come off, once it has come off the drive links are usually damaged, you should realy start again with a new chain, when running close to a clean peice of wood you should a steady stream of chain oil coming from the end of the guide bar.
The chain adjuster does not actually hold the guide bar, that is done by the bar nut/nuts, the main reason for chains coming lose is inadiquate chain oil to the bar/chain, does the chain look dry? it can also be the result of what you are cutting, if it is very dirty timber or railway sleepers.
White smoke is usually associated with burning antifreeze in an automobile engine, but in this case, trying to cut wet wood might be suspect. The chain must be properly sharpened and the teeth cut toward you on the bottom run of chain. When the chain is properly adjusted, it should not droop from the lower edge of the bar, but no so tight that you can't turn it by hand. Forcing a poor cutting chain into the kerf will overheat the chain and cause it to become loose quickly. Hope this helps!
Sawing with a chainsaw is mostly 2 part, a sharp chain and good technique.
If your bar is straight, your chain is razor sharp and the oil reservoir full then it boils down to technique.
You cannot run a chainsaw through horizontally on a big tree, what will happen is half the time the tree's weight will begin to collapse upon the bar and pinch it in the tree and you will not be able to saw any further.
You will notice that when felling a tree the vertical cuts are always problem free because gravity pulls the off-cut away from the saw. With horizontal cuts fire your blade in at an angle, and in cut in the direction the tree (or whatever) is likly to fall. As you cut rock your blade to help it bite into the wood and resist jamming. If your chain jams do not keep on the gas for you will burn out the clutch.
For an awkard cut instead of feeding it right through cut towards the middle to create a notch, then cut from the other side, the weight of the tree will fall on the cut portion leaving your blade free to slice through.
Just think logically and make sure that the blade can feed through without getting pinched, this is well represented if you get a log and support both sides then cut vertically in the centre; it will get pinched imeediatly. Now cut from the underside and it will fly right through.
This is difficult to describe but plan your cuts and test it out.