One of the wires from the main wiring connection is burnt. How do I get to the terminal block inside the dryer where the wire is attatched to to replace it?

Even if it wasn't a poor connection made during the assembly of the wire harness, it could've loosened up over time as your dryer was used being that when the clothes spin the inertia causes shifting of different things inside the dryer. How long did the dryer run before this happened?

Also gas dryers always have a fuse in them, I'd check that before you put it all back together too because chances are that if you have a burnt wire the fuse probably went too. The fuse is usually white, about an inch long and has to male end terminals on it.

On whirlpool (all manufacture) dryers the ground wire is linked to the center terminal with the white wire and attaches to the cabinet grounding all metal on dryer since on panel attaches to the next making the entire cabinet have continuty through the neutral/ground wire.
When connecting 3 wire cord connect the two outside wires to red/black on cord block and center wire to white/center terminal connection on block.
For a 4 wire cord red to red black to black white to white and the green to rear of cabinet/any panel near block

(same question listed 2 times gets same answer 2 times)

Hello Dale,

Having checked the thermal fuseto be good i will give you a partial list other things that could make the dryer not start

start switch

door switch

timer

circuit breaker, use your meter set to volts ac and check for 240 vac at the outlet,if 240 not at power outlet check for burnt connection inside outlet or bad circuit breaker

if 240vac at outlet check for 240 vac at terminal block on back of dryer where cord connects,if 240 at outlet but not terminal block replace cord , if burnt connection at terminal block,replace cord and block

finally the motor,manufactures do not publish wiring diagrams online and the only way for me to tell you to use jumper cord to check motor is find the wiring diagram inside of control panel and place one wire on the terminal indicated as neutral on wiring diagram and one wire on terminal indicated on diagram as run winding

firstly though check door switch to have contunity (0 ohms) and the start switch to have (0 ohms)WHILE PUSHING IT IN(the start switch isa momentary contact switch and will only have contunity while its pushed in)
to check timer again use wiring diagram and find chart that shows various cycles and with timer set to a cycle the two wires is says will have contunity will be indicated by a solid black line on the diagram

Good luck, Gene

First make dryer is unplugged !!!!!!!!! remove cover near cord entrance to dryer, you will notice 3 terminals. you should also see a green screw close by. there may be a wire or strap connecting center terminal to the green screw or ground. remove wires from terminals and remove strap from center to ground screw. connect new cord in the following order. green wire to green screw or ground, white wire to center terminal, black wire to left terminal, and red wire to right terminal. now you are done put the cover back on. I'm glad you asked this question. this is a very popular question. Your new 4 Prong cord is up to current code. I'm happy to see people updating there appliances to current code and making their homes safer. Thanks

The following link explains how to correctly install a power cord to the terminal block of a dryer:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r793520-3_prong_4_prong_power_cord_conversion

Take note of the difference between a 4-wire and 3-wire configuration. The color codes for both installations are as follows:

RED - HOT (120 VAC)
BLACK - HOT (120 VAC)
WHITE - NEUTRAL (0 VAC)
GREEN - Ground

The main difference between the two configurations is how the Neutral wire and Ground wire is installed.

In a 3-wire configuration ground and neutral are connected together at the terminal block.

In a 4-wire configuration ground and neutral are INDEPENDENT of each other. Neutral is terminated at the terminal block, while ground is terminated on a ground lug on the equipment cabinet.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

This could definitely cause a dryer no heat problem and a potential house fire. Purchase a new dryer cord and replace it. The following link explains how:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r793520-3_prong_4_prong_power_cord_conversion

Follow the 3-prong wire color code provided. If the new dryer cord does not have any colors (all gray) simply make sure the center conductor gets connected to neutral (WHITE) at the terminal block on the back of the dryer. There should also be a grounding strap or ground wire (GREEN) attached to the neutral at the temrinal block. Each outer wire will then get connected to either of the two hot (RED and BLACK) terminals.

The reason your dryer still may tumble in spite of a bad dryer cord is because the drive motor only uses 110-120VAC while the heating circuits require the full 220 service. If one of the dryer cord conducters is burned in half, you may only be getting half your input voltage to the dryer. A voltage reading across the two hot terminals (left and right slots) at the wall receptacle should read 220-240VAC. You should also read this same voltage across the red and black wires at the terminal block. If not, you have a bad cord.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Replace the negative battery wire, clean the place where it attaches to the car until it shines, then put a dab of grease in the connection.

3 wire setup, middle wire goes on the middle of terminal block,and one wire each on each side of it,4 wire setup white wire goes to middle of terminal block ,red and black goes to does not matter which side(both 120 volts) goes on each side of block,the green wire gets mounted to the cabinet,it is the extra ground-mike

First off, you should be wiring your power cord directly to the terminal block inside the dryer. If someone just cut off the cord that is terminated inside the dryer, and you are attempting to splice the new cord onto the old one.. you are making a mistake.. take the new cord and bond it directly to the terminal block inside the dryer. If you have a new 4-wire power cord, you are probably dealing with a red/black/white and green wire. ( assuming it is a four prong plug).. The black and red wires are the power lines themselves and should mate with the red and black wires inside the dryer. The green ( is frame ground) and is normally bonded to a stud near the terminal block or the dryer frame. The white is the neutral line and is normally tied to the terminal in the middle and between the red and black tie points.. In line splices should not be done on this appliance.. Hope this helps..

To connect your dryer you must place the black and red wires one on the left and one on the right terminals.
The white wire is called the neutral and needs to be connected to the middle terminal.
The ground (green or bare white) needs to be connected to the ground terminal or lug which will be away from the other three wire terminals.
BE SURE TO TURN OFF THE POWER.
The wires coming from the dryer go to the hot wires inside the machine.
If you trace them by removing the covers, you will see the two hot wires that connect to the black and red wires from your power source, go to hot terminals in the dryer.
Does not matter which one goes to black and which goes to red.
They should be the outside two on the terminal block.
The neutral (white wire from the power source) goes to ground (chassis) inside of the machine.