40 x 40 x 10 with a red wire and black wire which plug into the motherboard. Easy fix by removing the four screws and old fan, and replacing it with the new fan. If your new fan has 3 wires, clip the white wire and tape the end, and splice the old plug on the new red and black wire.
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If I've told you once, I've told you..............
OH,......where was I?
You post solutions. How about posting the need information for your query?
Laptop manufacturer name, and model number. (Bottom of laptop - Model Number)
Right off hand; A laptop that uses two cooling fans already? I don't know if I would tax the DC - DC circuit on the laptop anymore, by adding a third fan.
Is this fan to take the place of the fried harddrive?
Hmmm,......... The extra cooling fan would use at least 3 wires. One for Power (Positive), one for Ground, (Negative), and a Sensor wire; so the laptop (BIOS) can speed the fan up when needed, or slow it down.
Positive ( + ) power pin, can be had from the Harddrive's interface it plugs into, on the laptop. So can a Ground pin. Not a sensor pin for speeding up, or slowing down a fan.
The internal cooling fan of a laptop, only uses two wires. Positive, and Negative. It is the circuit the fan is plugged into, that can determine if the fan needs to be speeded up, or slowed down.
Point is, there isn't even a sensor pin FOR the installed cooling fans, to bring a jumper wire over TO the new fan. (Which I wouldn't recommend anyway)
The two hardware components that give off the most heat, is the Processor (CPU), and graphics chipset. (GPU)
The CPU (Processor) is usually adequately cooled in a laptop. The graphics chipset is usually, not.
Therefore, adding more surface area, to the Cooling Tube's small metal plate; is a method to help keep the laptop cooler.
Let's use an HP Pavilion dv6000 series of Notebook PC's, Cooling Tube for an example,
This is actually the entire cooling system. Fan Assembly, finned Heatsink, and copper Cooling Tube.
The large metal plate all the way to the Left, that has the X-shaped mounting 'arms' on it, sits on the Processor.
Come up towards the Right, along the Cooling Tube, and the odd shaped metal plate sits on the graphics chipset. (To the immediate left of the black Fan Assembly)
See how small that surface area is, that sits on the GPU? (Graphics chipset) The surface area is increased by adding a small piece of copper sheeting. (APPROXIMATELY, 1-1/4th inches by 1-1/4 inches) Thermal Paste is put on the graphics chipset. Then small piece of copper sheet, then Thermal Paste; then Cooling Tube.
If you have twin fans, then you should have twin Cooling Tubes. I have seen four Cooling Tubes. Two for one fan, and two for the other fan. Two go to the Processor, and two go to the graphics chipset.
At any rate I am just rambling until I know what laptop we are talking about. Could be a reference to a Desktop PC for all I know........
The Processor has contact pins on the bottom. 478 of 'em. The Socket 478 processor socket has matching socket holes.
With a BGA surface mount there are no contact pins, nor socket holes.
In place of the contact pins there are Solder Balls. In place of the socket holes there are Copper Pads. (Which have a gold plating on them)
The graphics chipset is set into place over the motherboard, with it's Solder Balls lining up on the motherboard's matching Copper Pads.
Heat is then applied at a specific temperature, and length of time. The Solder Balls melt, which solders the graphics chipset to the Copper Pads. (Which in turn solders the graphics chipset to the motherboard)
With the inadequate cooling for the graphics chipset, after time the solder connections will begin to partially melt.
This leads to a poor contact of the graphics chipset to the motherboard, and the problem you are having.
As previously stated the cooling system for the graphics chipset, is inadequate.
Cooling System: The cooling system consists of a Cooling Tube, Heatsink, and Fan Assembly.
The Cooling Tube is a slightly flattened copper tube, filled with Nitrogen, and sealed on both ends.
Towards one end of the tube is an aluminum plate. This plate sits on top of the Processor. Has four screws through it. Removing these screws removes the cooling system assembly.
Coming up the tube a little bit, is another aluminum plate. This one is smaller, and sits on top of the graphics chipset.
Connected at the opposite end is the Heatsink. The Heatsink is a small thin piece of metal, with Tall, Thin, fins protruding from it.
Next to the Heatsink is the Fan Assembly. The Fan Assembly, is a Fan inside of a cage, or shroud.
Draws air up from the bottom of the laptop, and pushes it through the Heatsink's fins, and out the side of the laptop.
Heat from the graphics chipset, and the Processor, are absorbed by their metal plates. The Cooling Tube absorbs heat from the two aluminum metal plates.
The Cooling Tube transfers the heat along up to the Heatsink. The Heatsink absorbs the heat, then radiates it away with the Tall, Thin fins.
Airflow from the Fan Assembly, helps to carry heat away from the fins of the Heatsink.
The surface area of the metal plate on top of the graphics chipset, is too small. It is inadequate in surface area size.
The above is posted for reference. Pause the video at 7:43 to see the cooling system I described above.
1) Black Fan Assembly to the upper left.
2) To the immediate left side of the Fan Assembly is the Heatsink. Black in color, slightly rounded outside edge, goes along the full length of the left side of the Fan Assembly. Hard to discern the fins.
3) The aluminum X shaped piece with 4 black screws in it, on the copper Cooling Tube, is the metal plate for the Processor.
4) Coming up the copper Cooling Tube towards the Fan Assembly, is the second aluminum metal plate. It is shaped sort of like an S, with flat ends. This plate sits on top of the graphics chipset.
Solution? Properly remelt the solder connections of the graphics chipset, to the copper pads. Add surface area to the Processor's metal plate, and the graphics chipset's metal plate.
PROPER method is to use a BGA Rework Machine. Performed by a shop who has one.
ANY other method may is less than. The procedure may last a week, a month, or maybe longer.
There was a recall on this series of Notebook PC. It is over,
Amazon sells a 40mm fan for about 4.99, it is a 3 pin setup (may be available in 2 pin).
But that should be about the same size as your existing card fan. Just watch for height issues on the new fan. This would be easier that trying to replace the existing fan, as it is most likely powered through your video card port and would be difficult to replace.
As far as mounting it to the card, try just a couple of drops of super glue on the outside corners of the fan, then mount it to the heat sink on the card, the existing fan is probably mounted w/ screws, you may get lucky and the new fan will match the existing holes, otherwise just super glue it.
Not a factory fix, but it will work!
Take care Dave
you may use 680uF-1000 but 350-400Volt. Check Voltage,be carefull!!!!! in you system voltage exeed nominal level 330V! may be 350-360V-result die capacitor.
For normal use capacitor on 330v good maximum voltage wil be ~280V.
The thread size is standard, just a metric standard. To attach the Sylvania LCD427SSX to the wall mount bracket you'll need (4) metric 8mm machine screws with a 1.25mm pitch. You'll find them at your favorite neighborhood hardware store with the designation M8 1.25x40mm. (40mm long...the 30mm would be to short)