Question about Amana ATB1935HR Top Freezer Refrigerator
You said, Bottom freezer works fine, but upper refrigerator has no cold air
Is your freezer so full that it is packed to the top especially in the rear?
Refrigerators and freezers share the air from the compressor and travel through vents in the rear of the freezer and fridge.
Sometimes it can effect the cooling in the fridge if the freezer articles block the vents!
The water overfilling in the ice maker is an ice maker problem only.
When we install an ice maker there is a short white plastic tube that we push through the rear
hole of the fridge which supply's the water to the maker, the outside water line attaches to this.
That tube we push through the fridge must go in till it stops. And empties in to a little sistran at the rear of the ice maker. Make sure it did not sip out or backwards a little when you may have moved
rolled the fridge out to clean under it!
Also you need periodically to remove the front grill down in front of the fridge and gently run a refrigerator brush under the coils to clean out the dust that may block air flow over the coils.(the coils are metal black tubes that run back and forth along the bottom of your fridge.
The vacuum will not reach in to that tight space. That's why they make a special brush for this chore.
Let me know how you do?
Bottom freezer works fine, but upper refrigerator has no cold a
Let me know.
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Posted on Oct 05, 2008
Below bottom grate is a defrost timer. Turn slowly clockwise until you hear compressor start. If this works, replace defrost timer.
Let me know, Thanks, Sea Breeze
Posted on Mar 19, 2009
the damper control is not working let me tell you what to do the air that comes from the freezer block if you can get to the damper you will see it have a get rool a piece of paper between the body of damper and the get flap and have it open if the refrigerator side start cooling is the damper control i am sure about that is the damper control
Posted on Apr 01, 2009
on the amana rifg pull both knobs off
on the right side of control panel remove a 1/4 in screw
remove plastic panel now u can get too the part
Posted on May 13, 2009
HI, you will need to inspect the compressor to make sure it is cycling in intervals. if the compressor is not cycling, this will confirm compressor failure. The evaporator fan blows cold air into the freezer and from there it vents into the refrigerator. Occasionally the vents between the freezer and refrigerator can become clogged with ice, food or other debris. In most refrigerators the cold control for the refrigerator opens and closes these vents. That mechanism may become inoperative resulting in the vents becoming stuck open or closed.
Inspect the vents to determine what is preventing the free flow of air. An overcrowded refrigerator or freezer may be the cause. In other cases the vents may need to be cleaned or ice melted away. To remove a build up of ice, use a hair dryer set to "low". Using a higher setting may damage the freezer. CAUTION: Do not let melting ice drip onto the hair dryer. In some models, the vent is located under the temperature control console. The housing either snaps into place or is held in place with screws. Remove the screws, or gently depress the retaining clips with a small screwdriver. Allow the housing to hang by its wiring. A freezer vent control may also have to be removed to access the vent. In some freezer-on-top models, it may be necessary to remove the floor of the freezer to inspect for obstructions.
The condenser coils dissipate heat. If dust and debris accumulate around the coils, your refrigerator may not be able to cool properly, it may run continuously or it may stop completely as a result of an overheated compressor. You should clean rear-mounted coils once a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Refrigerators are heavy, never tip one forward or backward. Never attempt to move a refrigerator without an assistant. Vacuum or brush the coils. If coils have a filmy build-up, use warm soapy water to clean them. Take care not to spill or drip water onto the components of the refrigerator.You should clean floor level coils at least twice a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Vacuum or brush the coils. Remove the grill from the front of the refrigerator and use a vacuum with a wand attachment to remove any dust and debris. The grill should snap off and on. Pull firmly toward you and possibly upward to remove the grill. If it does not come off with a modest effort, check for screws or retaining clips that may hold it in place.
Another inspection point will be the door seals. This is a easy way for the cold air to escape from your unit as well. thsi will cause the temperature to rise. The seal should make smooth continuous contact with the refrigerator case. When the seal does not seal completely, warm air enters the appliance. This results in more frequently compressor operation and possibly the inability of the appliance to maintain proper temperature. To test the seal, use the dollar bill test. Place a a dollar bill or a piece of paper between the seal and the refrigerator and close the door. Now pull the paper out. You should feel tension as you pull. Retest along the entire door seal. Replace the seal if the test was unsuccessful.
Next will be the door switch. The interior light in most refrigerators, and the fan in some, is controlled by a door switch. When the door is closed, the switch is depressed and the interior light goes off and the fan resumes normal operation. If the door is misaligned or the switch malfunctions, the refrigerator may become warm as a result of the non-operation of the evaporator fan and the heat generated by the interior light. Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to zero when the probes touch the terminals. With the probes still touching the terminals depress the switch, the reading should change back to infinity. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.
Be sure to confirm evaporator fan function as well. if the fan is defective, it will prevent proper cooling as well.
This will conclude the most common issue with a under preforming unit. I would advise to check all the above and, if the unit continues to not cool after all the above adjustments are made, i will recommend replacing the cold control device and thermostat.
Posted on Aug 27, 2009
Testimonial: "The information was helpful and solved my problem. I also learned something about the operation of my refrigerator. Thank you"
You don't have a defrost timer, you have an adaptive defrost control which determines when to defrost based on how often door is opened etc. If you have a defrost problem check
, defrost heater, defrost thermostat
How to check everything
If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.
Posted on Sep 08, 2009
Testimonial: "Thank you"
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