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Re: Air conditioning unit
Have someone turn the thermostat to fan on. stand by the air handler. listen for a click. There is a fan relay or a stack switch both click when power is sent to them .
If you do hear a click that is good. should be good part.
No click means the relay or stack switch may be bad.
also look at the capicator. it's a little silver oblong or round component with 2 wires to treminals on the end. These wires are usually brown. The top of the capicator where the wires attach should be flat. if it is a little rounded the cap is bad.
If the cap is good and the relay is good.
SECURE POWER to the Air Handler. At the breakers
touch the side of the motor. BE CAREFUL it could burn.
touch lightly... if real hot motor is more than likely bad.
The Motor has the specks on the side of it. and can be read after the motor is removed.
Two screws must be removed to remove motor.
If you must disconnect wires to remove. write down where they connect and there colors Before disconnecting.
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Indoor unit indicator
RUN lamp = 6 time flash
TIMER lamp = Comes on
Outdoor unit indicator (LED5) = Stays off
Description of trouble = Indoor fan motor error (2)
Cause = Defective fan motor, Connector poor connection
Conditions of flashing = When air conditioner is operating and indoor fan motor is turned ON, indoor fan motor speed of 400 rpm or under continued for more than 30 seconds. (Air conditioner stops.)
Hello, a blower motor will not run for one of theese three reasons
1) No power to motor
2) bad capacitor
3) the motor itself is bad.
One test you could do is take the wire of the L1 terminal on the control board and use a jumper wire and connect it to the wire on the high speed motor tap , if this gets the unit running then the control board must be replaced if it does not work then the motor is shot......make suremwhen disconnevting wires the power is off.
If the out door unit is running without the indoor fan running, you could possibly have a motor burned out or your indoor unit. If nothing is running, check to make sure all panels are on inside, and that you have electricity to the indoor unit. Some air handlers and furnaces are equipped with a safety switch on the access door to the motor assembly. Also , there may be a switch that looks like a light switch beside the indoor unit.
Once again, check and see if the outdoor unit is running. It will eventually freeze up without the indoor fan. Hope this helps. Please email me if you have any more questions , I will try to step you through. Mark
The first thing to do is see if the indoor (evaporator-air handler) fan and compressor are both running at the same time, then turn the unit off and let all the ice melt. If the compressor is running and the evaporator fan isn't, you've already found the main cause of your air conditioning freezing problem. The indoor coil will freeze up if the compressor runs without the evaporator fan running. Check to see if ice has built up enough to stop the fan. If it has, (and it's possible with wall mounted ductless mini split units and some window units), the fan may run normally once the ice melts, and the cause of your air conditioning freezing problem could be something else. If you are the equipment owner trying to take care of this air conditioning freezing problem yourself, and you get to the point that you have to call in a technician, it could save him time, (which saves you money) if you have already verified whether the evaporator fan was or wasn't running with the compressor, and if ice had built up enough to stop the fan. Once the ice has melted, check the fan or blower blades, and see if they're clean and not obstructed by something like a plastic bag, other debris, or mould growth. Remove any obstructions, and if necessary, remove the blower and clean it. Before tearing into the rest of the unit, check the thermostat and make sure it's working right. Do the cool contacts open when the t-stat is turned up to a higher temp than the room temp? If not, the thermostat has failed, and never turns the unit off, which can definitely cause an air conditioning freezing problem. Do the fan contacts open and close when the thermostat setting is turned higher and lower than the room temperature? If the fan contacts never close but the cool contacts do, the thermostat has failed and caused your air conditioning freezing problem. If the fan contacts close, but the fan doesn't run, check the fan relay in the air handler. If the fan relay is not getting control voltage, the circuit is open between the thermostat and the fan relay. Look for a loose connection, wrong connection, dis-connection, or broken wire. If it gets control voltage but doesn't energize, it has failed, and must be replaced. If it energizes but the fan doesn't run, check for line voltage on the load side of the relay. If there is line voltage on the load side of the relay and the fan doesn't run, you'll have to troubleshoot the load side circuit and the fan motor as detailed further on. If the thermostat checks out ok, set the thermostat to "fan on" and make sure the blower runs in the correct direction and at the proper RPM, that it is installed in the housing correctly, and is the right size. If the blower is installed backwards or is running in reverse, the coil can freeze up. (Although I have seen several units that didn't freeze up with reversed blowers.) You will need to turn the blower around, reverse the rotation of the motor if it is a reversible rotation motor, or install a motor with the correct rotation. A blower that runs too slow can cause an air conditioning freezing problem. You'll need to install a motor that runs at the correct speed. A blower that is too small, or that is installed in the housing incorrectly, can cause an air conditioning freezing problem. You will need to install the correct size blower, and be sure it is installed correctly in the housing. This means centered, with volutes installed, and the curve of the vanes matching the outlet of the housing. If the blower motor is the wrong size, if the bearings are failing, or if it has an open start winding or a failed run capacitor, it could be overheating and stopping intermittently. A motor that is overheating and stopping intermittently can cause an air conditioning freezing problem. To check out the evaporator fan motor: Check the resistance readings of the motor windings. If you get a readable resistance between all three windings, the motor windings should be ok. Turn the shaft. If it turns free and easy, the bearings should be ok. If the shaft is hard to turn, lube the bearings with 20 SAE electric motor oil if there are lube ports. If that frees the shaft, it should run ok for a while, but the bearings or bushings may be deteriorated to the point that they'll sieze again soon. If the shaft doesn't free up, replace the motor. If the shaft turns freely, check the capacitor. The best way to check the capacitor is to replace it with a new one of the correct rating. If the motor runs, close the air handler panels, and take an amp draw on the motor. If it's normal it should run OK, and if the motor was the problem, your air conditioning freezing problem should stop. Ok, if you've verified that the controls and fan are good, take a break for a diet soda, and then we'll see if the evaporator coil or ducting are the cause of your air conditioning freezing problem. Take a look at the evaporator coil. Is it clean? Can you see your flashlight shining through from the other side? If the coil's dirty, you'll have to do some air conditioning coil cleaning. If your air conditioner is a window type, our page about how to clean window air conditioners has some pointers you might find useful. A dirty evaporator coil is a common cause of air conditioning freezing, And it's one of the problems that can be prevented with regularly scheduled air conditioning maintenance. If the coil is clean, check the ducting to make sure nothing is blocking air flow. Blocked ducting will stop air flow through the evaporator coil, and this will cause the coil to freeze up. If your coil is clean and the ducting is clear, let's run the unit and check the operating pressures and temperatures. If your discharge and suction pressures are low, with a low compressor amp draw, low subcooling, high superheat, and low temperature splits accross your evaporator and condenser coils, you probably have a leak. Shut the unit down, find the leak and repair it. Once the leak is found and/or repaired and you're ready to run the unit, our Charging Air Conditioning Systems page offers some tips that you might find helpful. If you are totally unable to locate the leak with a bubble solution or electronic detector, you'll have to charge in refrigerant to correct pressures, temperatures, and superheat and subcooling values, and it would be a good idea to add some air conditioning leak detector dye so the leak can be found later on. You have to use some common sense about leaks. If the leak is so small that you can't find oil or any other sign; unless the customer agrees to pay you for all the time you spend, it's more cost effective to charge in the small amount of refrigerant it will take to get the unit running correctly, finish the service call, and be on your way. I can't imagine that there's a service technician out there who hasn't run into the same problem many times. Use some common sense, be up front with your customer, and if you've done your best not only to find the leak, but to get the unit running right and save your customer unnecessary expense, consider it a job well done. If your suction pressure is low enough to cause the evaporator to freeze up, but you have high subooling and high superheat, either your metering device is restricted or the wrong size, your drier is restricted, or your liquid line is restricted. Evaluate all of the system's operating characteristics to isolate the restriction.
Please understand first, air conditioning system not only cooling the area but also removing the heat. If heat in the room stays constantly, even 24 hrs running a/c couldn't cool the room. Now, why the a/c could not cool the room or remove the heat from the room. Check air filter, evaporator coil and blower wheel for clean. If not service the unit immediately. And also check indoor fan motor rpm. If rpm is low, replace fan capacitor. Check for gas pressure to confirm no leak or running with short of gas. It's advisable to service both indoor and out door once in 6 months at least. Otherwise, your electric bill will kill you lot. Thanks.
The indoor fan will continue to run. When heat pump goes into defrost the outdoor fan stops, the reversing valve switches and the unit is basically working in the cooling mode. In order for you not to feel a blast of cold air in the winter the electric strip heat also comes on so the indoor fan must run while the strip heaters are on.
This alarm state is a CH08 alarm. Which indicates that the indoor unit fan motor has a locked rotor. Solution is to check the indoor fan capacitor and replace or test the windings of the indoor fan motor. Note: the indoor fan motor is a BLDC fan motor and can not be replaced with any other motor. It runs of a voltage regulated frequency.
Turn off unit supply and check the blower wheel inside the indoor unit by rotating it manually by your finger if the blower wheel rotates freely then there is something wrong with your fan motor or fan motor capacitor. But if the blower wheel is not rotating freely try to check the fan motor for lubrication or some bushing dried of and no oil