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Honeywell 88031 is not cooling. Fuse may be blown.

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  • Anonymous Jul 11, 2008

    88031 isn't cooling and a small fan under the plastic cover in the rear lower panel is very,very noisy!!!!

  • lucero_judy Oct 24, 2008

    the refrigerator is not cooling and the fans on the back of the refrigerator are not turning

  • jwhart102 Dec 22, 2008

    not cooling but the fans are running. Solved the noisy sound from the plastic panel by removing and cleaning the dust from the small fan that cools the circuit board.



  • rlfmail Jan 03, 2009

    Something has a light chatter but fans are not turning and are moving back and forth very slightly. Almost looks like DC fans are getting AC

  • Dale Mullen Feb 24, 2009

    11 month old Honeywell Compact Refrigerator (Model 88031) stopped
    cooling and apparently compressor stopped also. Interior light flickers
    in time with the three exterior fans which seem to pulse. They are
    apparently not receiving enough energy to turn as each pulse seems to
    try to turn the fans.
    If the unit is unplugged for a time and then
    plugged back in, the fans sometimes turn very slowly a few turns and
    then finally stop.
    Honeywell claims they provide no repair parts and
    warranty is available only if original sales receipt is mailed to them.
    They apparently will return the money if all their conditions are
    met(?).
    Can this unit be repaired for a reasonable cost? What might be wrong? Where can parts be purchased for the repair?
    Thank you,
    Dale

  • koocher Mar 02, 2009

    honeywell 88031 is not cooling.

  • Anonymous May 08, 2009

    Mine stopped getting cold and the light flickers just like the other guy described. It is only about a year old . I am hoping that it is a fuse , it must be something pretty simple , it was hardly ever used.

  • Anonymous May 21, 2009

    Honeywell tells me that the fridge is made by a company called Turbotech and will not honor the warranty until this company is relicensed with them. It was like pulling teeth to get any info out of them.  The fight is not over though

  • opj38 May 11, 2010

    I had the same problem and fixed it by purchasing a new capacitor. 1000 micro F, 25 volts. I unsoldered the popped capacitor, It is the smaller, single one to the left of the larger, silver coloured, square part.
    You can find the capacitor at www.digikey.com. It is made by Panasonic and it's manufacturer part number is EEU-FM1E102. The Digi-key part number is P12379-ND. It costs 76 cents US plus shipping. Be careful to note which end is negative when you remove the old capacitor. The new one has to be put in the exact same way!
    Good Luck

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Opj38 -
Thanks, I used your hint/tip.!!!
I have a Honeywell 88031, it was flickering the light, buzzing intermittently and not cooling.
I took the back cover off and looked at the capacitor you mentioned. (Right by the Heatsink)
It was bulged and buckled outwards. Marked 1000uF 16V
I looked around in the junk parts I have laying around and found a 1000uF 10V Capacitor. I put it in and now it works normal and cools.
I suppose I should get one rated for 16 or 25 V, but for now I am going to see if it will stay running or ?
Good Luck to others with this problem.

Posted on Aug 08, 2010

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localwonder
  • 6784 Answers

SOURCE: do not cool

HI, you will need to inspect the compressor to make sure it is cycling in intervals. if the compressor is not cycling, this will confirm compressor failure. The evaporator fan blows cold air into the freezer and from there it vents into the refrigerator. Occasionally the vents between the freezer and refrigerator can become clogged with ice, food or other debris. In most refrigerators the cold control for the refrigerator opens and closes these vents. That mechanism may become inoperative resulting in the vents becoming stuck open or closed.

Inspect the vents to determine what is preventing the free flow of air. An overcrowded refrigerator or freezer may be the cause. In other cases the vents may need to be cleaned or ice melted away. To remove a build up of ice, use a hair dryer set to "low". Using a higher setting may damage the freezer. CAUTION: Do not let melting ice drip onto the hair dryer. In some models, the vent is located under the temperature control console. The housing either snaps into place or is held in place with screws. Remove the screws, or gently depress the retaining clips with a small screwdriver. Allow the housing to hang by its wiring. A freezer vent control may also have to be removed to access the vent. In some freezer-on-top models, it may be necessary to remove the floor of the freezer to inspect for obstructions.

The condenser coils dissipate heat. If dust and debris accumulate around the coils, your refrigerator may not be able to cool properly, it may run continuously or it may stop completely as a result of an overheated compressor. You should clean rear-mounted coils once a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Refrigerators are heavy, never tip one forward or backward. Never attempt to move a refrigerator without an assistant. Vacuum or brush the coils. If coils have a filmy build-up, use warm soapy water to clean them. Take care not to spill or drip water onto the components of the refrigerator.You should clean floor level coils at least twice a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Vacuum or brush the coils. Remove the grill from the front of the refrigerator and use a vacuum with a wand attachment to remove any dust and debris. The grill should snap off and on. Pull firmly toward you and possibly upward to remove the grill. If it does not come off with a modest effort, check for screws or retaining clips that may hold it in place.

Another inspection point will be the door seals. This is a easy way for the cold air to escape from your unit as well. thsi will cause the temperature to rise. The seal should make smooth continuous contact with the refrigerator case. When the seal does not seal completely, warm air enters the appliance. This results in more frequently compressor operation and possibly the inability of the appliance to maintain proper temperature. To test the seal, use the dollar bill test. Place a a dollar bill or a piece of paper between the seal and the refrigerator and close the door. Now pull the paper out. You should feel tension as you pull. Retest along the entire door seal. Replace the seal if the test was unsuccessful.

Next will be the door switch. The interior light in most refrigerators, and the fan in some, is controlled by a door switch. When the door is closed, the switch is depressed and the interior light goes off and the fan resumes normal operation. If the door is misaligned or the switch malfunctions, the refrigerator may become warm as a result of the non-operation of the evaporator fan and the heat generated by the interior light. Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to zero when the probes touch the terminals. With the probes still touching the terminals depress the switch, the reading should change back to infinity. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.

Be sure to confirm evaporator fan function as well. if the fan is defective, it will prevent proper cooling as well.

This will conclude the most common issue with a under preforming unit. I would advise to check all the above and, if the unit continues to not cool after all the above adjustments are made, i will recommend replacing the cold control device and thermostat.

Posted on Aug 24, 2009

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