Stops heating untill totaly cools down runs 1 cycle then stops

Possibly a tstat issue. Run system until satisfied, once satisfied indoor fan shuts down compressor still runs remove tstat face plate and see if compressor shuts down. Another issue could be a sticking contactor for compressor. With a meter you could check at the contactor to see if you lose your 24volts for cooling but contactor remains pulled in.

Do you have a heat pump? And if so is it a heat pump compatible thermostat.

it sounds like the low temp limit switch, the one that cools the furnace down with the burner off and the thermostat open, when it cools to a point the fan stops, the other switch in burner area turns burner off/on, hope this helps

on a timed dry cycle u are selecting the time it will dry
only after the time has run out will it tumble with no heat
on other setting the machine is stopping the heat and putting the machine into a cool down or air fluff mode
sounds like it isworking normally
(solv ya prob)

Sounds like a faulty high limit or cycling thermostat. The thermostat tells the dryer to heat until the interior of the dryer reaches a certain temp. It should be mounted on the exhause duct inside the back of the dryer. It should look something like the one in the picture:



Hope this helped and best wishes.

High temp. limit is probably at fault and will need to be changed.

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Be sure the vent is totaly clear.if the t-stat(s) heat up from lack of air flow the heat will not return until the t-stat is cool enough.Running without the drum in place will also heat up the sensor(s).This is a very common problem.

If your dishwasher's cycle times are too long, check these:

Water pre-heating
Cycle not completing
Water pre-heating
Your dishwasher may pre-heat the water. If so, and if the water entering the dishwasher is
cool, the heater may take up to half an hour to heat the water.

To avoid the wait, increase the incoming water temperature before turning on the dishwasher.
Do that by running the kitchen sink faucet until the water runs hot. Or increase the temperature
of the hot water to the entire house at the hot water heater.

Warning! To lessen the risk of scalding, don't set the hot water heater temperature higher than
120 degrees Fahrenheit.

WHAT WAS HAPPENING AT 1ST YOUR HI-LIMIT TERMAL SAFETY OR OVEN TEMP SENSOR FELT THAT THE OVEN WAS GET TOO HOT AND SEIZING OPERATION UNTIL SAFE TEMP WERE OBTAINED THIS IS GENERALLY A FAULTY OVEN TEMP SENSOR. I WOULD ADVISE YOU TO CONTACT A CERTIFIED TECH TO LOOK AT IT AND P.S. DON'T MENTION THAT YOU TOOK THE MACHINE APART MOST SERVICE COMPANIES WILL NOT SERVICE THE MACHINE IF IT BEEN TAMPER WITH BY THE CUSTOMER DUE TO INSURANCE AND LIABILITIES

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U may have a heat pump thats not reversing into cooling. Any number of items can cause this. I would start with the reversing valve coil assuming its a heat pump. If your not acquainted with a reversing valve it is a 4 pipe (1 on one end and 3 on the other) with a 2 wire coil on it. This coil is usually energized in the cooling mod. It also could be low on charge or have a restriction causing the valve to stick mechanically. This means then youd need a tech If your not femilure enough at this point I would call in one you trust. Give them all the information youve gathered to that point. If you follow the 2 pipes off the compressor (1 large 1 smaller) thes 2 go to the reversing valve eventually. The smaller one usually reaches it first and there may be a canister looking devise one or both of the lines keep running down the lines and you will come to the reversing valve next. If you dont have the reversing valve it is not a heat pump and you have electric heat comming on.

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