Question about Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9549L Top Load Washer

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Whirlpool Unltimate Care II

Washer will drain fine, but does not spin. Makes a loud noise when trying to spin. New clutch put on machine. What else could it be?

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  • ronnie2042 May 19, 2008

    Sounds like a belt slipping, but there is no belt (direct-drive).

  • ronnie2042 May 19, 2008

    Motor coupling appears to be good. Is there anyway to tell if it is bad without replacing?

  • itstaken May 19, 2008



    My Ultimate Care drains fine, but will not spin or aggitate, it also makes a loud noise when it should be spining or agitating. The coupling is working, I've watched it during the noise, it spins, but at very slow RPM, maybe 2 per second. The machine is only 3-4 years old, and everyone wants $50 to look at it, even if I bring it to them and plug it in! I would like to fix it myself, but most of all I would like to know if it's worth the trouble. Thanks in advance, any help would be greatly appreciated.



    Thank-you, Tim

  • BooshieDaddy May 20, 2008

    I have the same problem and will be watching for some advice as I would like to fix this myself.

  • ronnie2042 May 25, 2008

    Replaced motor coupling. Still not spinning. Any more suggestions. Has new clutch and new motor coupling now.

  • itstaken May 26, 2008

    Ronnie24.. I'm pretty sure I have the same problem as you. From what I've read and seen it's either the transmission binding and causing the motor to turn to slow, or there is a motor control gizmo of some kind on the blink. All I have is the wiring diagram that came with it, it shows a centrifugal switch upstream of the motor, any ideas on what that does?



    Thanks, Tim

  • Anonymous Jul 04, 2008

    Making a strnge sound, like a bad bearing.

  • itstaken May 11, 2010

    Loud noise may not be the right word, more like a buzing....

  • robert samples May 11, 2010

    what kind of loud noise

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BooshieDaddy & ronnie2042 I would like to pass this along. I found a web sight for the testing and repair of the Drive motor switch (my centrifugal switch), it also has prices, parts diagrams, and prices for my LSQ8512KQ0, which is the Ultimate Care ll, same guts as yours, I believe. Since the coupling is alright, that probably means the gearbox didn't bind. The prices are ridiculous, I added up just the one page for the motor and gear box and it came to like $500.! You wouldn't want to build one at home! The switch is $55., the gear case $143. and the drive motor is $111.83. On some of the models you can't buy the switch separately, you have to get it with the motor. They have a place where you can enter your P/N and find out though. The other neat feature is you get step by step instructions for everything, removing case, water pump, ect...It's www.repairave.com/washerrepair_wpl_motorswitch.asp, hope this helps....

Tim

Posted on May 28, 2008

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First unplug the washer and turn off the water. If you have a shop vac take the drain hose out of the drain, and through the drain hose vacuum the water out of your washer. If you don't have a shop vac go to the auto parts store and buy a pair of radiator hose clamps. Then facing the washer locates the two screws. They will either be in the front or rear of the control panel or back them out far as you can. Once you have done that pull the control panel slightly forward, and tilt it back on the hinges. Now unplug the lid switch wire but don't forget to plug it back when you’re done. Next locate at the rear of the washer body the two gold clips then push forward, and take careful note of how they fit. Then pop them out with a screw driver tilt the washer body forward at 45 degree angel and walk forward with the body, and set it down. Now you will see the white pump and motor assembly. You should see two clips holding the pump to the motor pop them off, and pull the pump off the motor shaft. Now if you fell the need to remove the pump use the radiator hose clamp. Take them and clamp the hose coming from the tub but it’s not necessary for the repair. Next disconnect the wiring harness from the motor (note the position of the harness for reassembly). Remove the two 5/16 inch screws from the motor clamps and pop the clamps off. Once that is complete, remove the motor put the new coupling on the motor and transmission shaft. I use a socket and a hammer

Posted on May 19, 2008

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