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The machine seems to be working fine but after the wash is finished, there is a slow drip that eventually creates a small puddle on the floor. If I flip the water supply off, this does not happen. If the water supply is left on, I can actually hear a slow drip. It is not leaking where the hoses are connected to the machine.
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check for a crack in the flexible hose connecting to the pump. These are normally accordion in shape and the cracks occur in the folds check that the water pump shaft seal is not leaking as it may do so when the pump is working A hose will drip all the time and a seal will only drip when the pump is working
If it drips while the washer is off then you will need to replace the "water inlet valve". Here is the part you need. Here is the service manual to show you how to access the valve and replace it.
You should clean off the condensor coils with a vaccum and soft brush. Also, check up inside the area where the condensate drips into the collection reservoir (or goes directly into a hose attachment discharge) to see if something is partially obstructing the water flow and is dripping onto the floor, etc.
You might find that you've got some buildup of dust, dirt, and some other gunk that is mis-directing the water (condesate) that the dehumidifier is drawing out of the air.
Lastly, check the unit to see if it's level, but frankly, I highly doubt that's the issue, based on the 5+ years of good working service for you.
So long as the unit is still running and keeping the humidity in check, (if the above steps don't resolve the issue), I'd continue using it until it finally quits running, but I'd put a plastic boot/shoe mat under it to catch the small puddles of water.
The dehumidifier should draw the small puddles, so it'd be less expensive to get a $4 boot mat than dropping another $240+ for a new unit, as your's seems to be working fine, aside from the occaissional puddle issue.
Hello, you may have a small drip from the pump or a small drip from the hose that goes from the pump to the rear of the cabinet. To make sure you will have to run the unit with the cabinet removed. A local service tech can remove the cabinet quicklyand isolate the leak.
I have been selling and been doing factory authorized service on GE for nearly 30 years. I have sold many of this model. It's hard to imaging that a machine would leak water on small loads but not larger loads. In a case such as this, a servicer must remember to test the machine exactly as the home owner is using it. I would take pull the machine away from the wall and adjacent cabinets and dryer if hoses permit, (so that I could rule out water coming from somewhere other that the washer) remove the front panel, and have the home owner run the exact cycle with the exact settings and the same clothes load and soap used when the machine leaked. I suspect that some water is splashing over the wash tub. If you use a gentle cycle or a larger load you get less splashing. Even having a few more cloths items in the machine would reduce splashing. You might not expect a solution, but you do deserve an explanation. Some times the solution is strange, for example: I had a customer who said the washer leaked a lot of water onto the floor the first time it was used in the day, but worked great the rest of the day. I came out early the next day and tested the machine, and it did exactly that. What happened was the builder added on this new laundry room and the drain pipe went through the floor before the plumber added the trap. The builder then insulated the area but put the insulation on the room side of the trap, allowing cold air to freeze and plug the drain. After warm water pumped into the drain and most of the water overflowed the top of the pipe onto the floor, the rest of the water melted the ice in the trap and the machine worked fine until the next day after the water had a chance to form a later of ice in the trap again. The fix was simply to move the insulation to the other side of the trap. (OK, here in Minnesota we run into weird things like that, but my point is to test the machine exactly as it is used to find where the problem lies) I'd like you to post a comment when you find your solution.
If your machine is spinning slow, this can be an indication that your gearcase (transmission) may be going bad. One way to tell is to look under your machine. If you see any oil puddles on the floor, your gearcase needs replaced. A new gearcase runs about $200 and that doesn't include the labor charges (add about another $150). Good luck.
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