Question about Westinghouse LVM-37w3 Television
Our sound and picture went out It still turns on and off. How much should this cost to fix?
SOURCE: Westinghouse LVM-37w1
I have the same issue, and I have read about 1 more of thse I wonder if they have a issue where they all break this time of year :-) I WILL NEVER BUY A WESTINGHOUSE AGAIN
Posted on Dec 17, 2007
SOURCE: Westinghouse Sucks
You all know you picked the Westinghouse brand cuz it was cheap.
Avoid cheap brands like Vizio, Magnavox, Philips, and Sylvania etc... If you don't buy eventually they will go away.Next time get a plan fro the TV. If you had a service plan on the TV you would already have a new one. Plans always cost less than repair and shipping. Don't be cheap. BUY THE SERVICE PLAN.
Posted on May 30, 2008
The simplest problem would be the failure of the backlight.
In case you don't already know it, there is one, and they may or may not last forever.
Also, there is an extra power supply to produce the high voltage the lamp needs to fire that may have failed.
Sometimes, you can look at the screen from an angle to see if there is any sign of movement.
If you can see program material causing a change in the faint image, then you can be pretty sure it is one of the two problems mentioned.
Posted on Sep 01, 2008
This problem is with fair certainty the
Modern power supplies are designed to shut down if the current drawn exceeds the design level which indicates that something the supply services or the supply itself has died.
If you are adventurous, you might pull the plug on the set, allow the set to sit overnight, gain access to the innards, and with good light, inspect any boards inside. If you see one that has few ICs but many more larger discrete parts, this will be the power supply.
You are looking for components called electrolytic capacitors that are almost always cylindrical and mostly installed upright at 90 degrees to the board with leads passing through to the solder side.
This same type of component in smaller dimensions is still used in a horizontal package with leads bent down and passing though holes to the solder side.
The latter are becoming more rare since they don't lend themselves well to robot assembly.
Many (not all) will show signs of pregnancy when they fail, bulging unnaturally when compared with others. Now and then, there may be traces of a crystalline deposit around the end where the seal failed from internal pressure.
These will have values listed on them in uFd & VDC and sometimes, a plus/minus number lying about the precision.
Some also have a date code (rarer) that will look like four digits:
2403 = 24th week of 2003
Most electronics suppliers have a stock of the various values but if they have a date code at all, try to get only those made before 2002 or after 2006.
The larger caps will probably be OK since the failure is likely related to functions other than brute-force filtering. A pretty good 'rule of thumb' is to replace any caps you see bulging that are 100 uFd or less.
If you choose to replace these yourself, you will need a quality soldering iron with a small, preferably iron-plated tip, rosin core solder and a sponge which when wetted is used to frequently wipe oxidized solder from the tip this should be kept bright and clean and fresh tinning will keep it that way.
You should also buy some solder 'wick' with the iron; this is used to place on the solder you wish to remove and then heated with the iron. Properly used. the wick will absorb nearly all of the solder from the lands from which you wish to remove a component.
Posted on Oct 07, 2008
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