My husband and I put a small piece of the no-slip foam you put under rus around the spindle, pinched that with a pair of needle nosed pliers and helpd thm plier tightly shut with a vice grip. Then, we used pliers to turn the brass piece to the RIGHT. It can off eventually :)
Use wire cutters/strippers to hold the spindle. Sounds odd but it works, (most have a large circular opening at the top of the handle/grips BELOW where you do the wire cutting and the opening is perfect for one person to apply pressure and hold the spindle). Then use a pair of pliers, (we used vise grips), and turn until it loosens. I tried both directions and quite honestly don't remember which way it came off. It didn't take long and putting the new clutch on there afterwards was simple.
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The hex wrench only fits in one position, there is a groove in the lip in the top housing and you need to turn the coupling until the hex screw head lines up. The groove is normally plugged with a dob of white silicone. The hex screw is not tightened fully tight on reassembly, the coupling needs a bit of slop.
what you need to do is hold the blades with a towel to protect your hand, then, use a visegrips needle nose to grab the coupling (pushing the guard down) and twist it loose. It may be very tight, when I loosened mine, the plastic portion of the coupling pulled off leaving the metal "nut" tight to the shaft. Either way, remove the coupling/nut in the standard "lefty loosey" direction. Many thanks to the people at pleasanthillgrain.com for walking me through the process. Blessings to you.
10-01-2009 Sara - see solution for rlaymon 1-9-08 "Top part of base broke off"by TanyaCS on 1-20-08 - good ideas. I just fixed mine - 2 hour job + half hour to put a new cord in. Like TanyaCS my broken coupling was rusted to shaft - used WD-40 twice and let sit - meanwhile took out motor and removed fan - kept screws and washers in order on workbench (kitchen counter) - the fan hole is "D" shaped - fan end of shaft also "D" shaped - I filed a "flat" on the other side of the factory "flat" (side of 'D' that is straight) - Used big pliers on broken coupling and adjustable wrench on on the "flats" on fan end of the shaft. Broken end came right off. New cord is 18 gauge extension cord capable of at least 6 amps. Cut off the un-needed end. Or order a replacement cord $4 when you order the rubber drive coupling $4, pin with slinger washer $3. Bet you also need new rubber feet - didn't buy for mine - wish I had. Bert
The part number is Cuisinart SPB7-20TXN and can be found on amazon.com. If this part is broken you will need to remove the brass coupling. Make sure you turn it clockwise not counter-clockwise as someone mentioned.
This just happened to me too, and I think I just fixed it. First you have to get a replacement part called the "blender coupling" (I got mine online from Goodmans for $3.99). I also replaced the square drive and slinger (two parts come together for $2.99)-that's the little part that sticks up and attaches to the pitcher.
Unscrew the bottom four screws of the base where the rubber feet are. Remove the rubber skirt to reveal four screws that hold the motor in. They are way in there so you'll need a long screw driver. Remove the motor and unscrew the old coupling. Mine had not been replaced since my grandmother bought this blender who knows when, so the coupling was really stuck. I did not have a tool narrow enough to get a good grip to apply enough torque to remove the coupling so I had to try a few other tricks. If your blender is the same, remove the bottom nut, fan blade and two washers. This gave enough of a rod to grip to get the old coupling off. (I also had to use some WD40, and heat and cool the coupling a few times to break the old seal).
Good luck! Hope that helps!
The drive is replacable and available from Cuisinart, you will have to sign a waver to get the part. the drive is screwed onto the motor shaft with reverse threads. the plastic drive will have to be completely broken off of the unit to expose a brass"nut" which was internal to the drive. depending upon your model you may have to remove the lower half of the base unit to access the lower part of the motor shaft. there will be a slot in the end of the shaft for a large flat blade screwdriver. this is used to hold the shaft still while turning the drive "nut" with a vice grip pliar or similar. the new drive is just threaded onto the shaft and normal operation tightens it.