My amp will work good for about five min. the led light will always stay green, then my subs will have a cracling sound and then nothing will come out of the amp the subs are perfectly fine. i had them tested but amp doesnt work. if you hit the amp somtimes it will kick back in again and work fine ? how can i fix this
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Please verify that we're talking about a JBL PSW-D110 here. I'm making no assumptions.
Are you running the Ipod into its L & R RCA jacks as prescribed?
Have you tried it with something besides the Ipod? A sub isn't supposed to reproduce a full range signal. Come to think of it, is the Ipod even outputting anything within the sub's operational range? I don't expect a lot of real bass comes out of one.
Perhaps you could try adjusting the Low Pass up to 180 to see if anything anywhere near the 'real' bass region is present.
Bottom line: There's not a lot of need for a sub (and no other speakers) running off of any music sound source. You wouldn't hear anything above 180hz.
i had an amp that did that for a while before frying. its possible that it could be overheating causing it to go into protection mode which can be fixed with a cooling fan or remounting it somewhere else so it can get some air. it needs to be mounted in a way that it will have at least 1/2" clearance under it so it can have plenty of airflow.
the other thing is you may be putting too much of a load on the amp causing it to go to protection mode. check and see how u have the sub wired and if the amp is stable. if u have the sub wired at 2ohm for more power output and the amp is only stable at 4ohm, then the amp will overload and cause the problem your experiencing. thats what happened to my amp. i had it wired for more than it was stable for and it fried
There is a standby indication that activates after 10-15 minutes without any input signal. I suspect that might be what the red light is telling you - no signal.
Loud hum from a loosened cable is normal as hum usually means there's an ungrounded connection somewhere acting as an antenna and the amp is doing its job to amplify what it thinks is a signal, in this case 60hz stray ac current is being sensed nearby. It's a good sign that you get hum from the sub because that means the amp is alive.
Avoid manipulating cable connections with the Sub or Receiver turned on as you could introduce a static spike that could harm any connected equipment.
Are you certain a bass signal is making it into the sub? The complexities of modern AV receivers vary in how you configure them to direct LFE to a sub. Bone up on that end of the chain.
Or, just hang a CD player on the Inputs of the sub and play something with a reassonable amount of Low Frequencies.
>>>> Be advised that this way of testing has NO VOLUME CONTROL because amps without volume controls always operate at maximum gain, relying on your external controls to attentuate it (hence, the loud hum from a loose cable); so choose a track that eases into the loud parts with some quiet parts up front and BE READY TO PAUSE THE PROGRAM AT ANY SIGNS OF STRESS. <<<<
A living sub will produce only muffled rumble in the absence of other speakers producing the higher frequencies which carry the intelligence of the signal. If that works, back to the receiver for settings. If not... sigh.
For hum problems, even those you cause yourself:
Disconnect all inputs to see if that helps. If it goes away start with the signal cables and add in things until it comes back.
Sometimes the reversing the orientation of the AC plug can help with hum. Or it could be something like a loose or high resistance connection internal to the sub. Good luck.
Check the amplifiers fuses. Some amps have speaker fuses that leave the LED on if blown. Check for continuity on the voice coils of both subs. Check for 12 volts on the remote turn on line from your receiver. If all of the above are good, the amp is probably toast.
are you absolutely certain your subs are in good shape? have you put a meter on them and measured the ohms as you depress the cone [causing the cone to move up and down on the pole of the magnet? do the ohms stay constant? go up to infinity[ suggesting an open] or go to zero or close to zero [ suggestting a short] both of these conditions will result in a zero or a very limited output from your amplifier, while still showing a green status light, if or when a full short or open occurs on the subs, a fault led will become lit, and whet that means is that u have fried the outputs....do a bit more testing with your vom....and good luck or try another speaker for testing purposes...
Your Amp is in protect. Disconnect your subs and turn it back on. IF the led goes back to green the you have a blown Sub and it will need to be replaced. If the amp stays in protect even with the subs removed the the amp is toast.