REJUVINATE ALL THREE C.R.T.S 170ACB22 R . .G . .B . .
REINSTALL AND ALIGN CONVERGENCE AND COLOR TEMPERATURE , YOU NEED TO BOIL NEW BARIUM EMISSIVE MATERIAL TO THE SURFACE OF THE CATHODES. SHOULD COME OUT GOOD IF YOU HAVEN'T DONE IT BEFORE. FRANK KB6MSW@HOTMAIL.COM
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Look.. go to menu , find flash option .. enter it.. go for TTL option in flash . If you are trying to do manual settings then you have to understand flash power before every shot. TTL mode will automatically decide the flash settings for you.
Every camera has a flash sink speed.. above which it will not work.. and you will have either black bands on the image or full black . So shutter speed should be maximum 1/200 or 1/250 (which ever is your sink speed) . Check the manual ..
Another option for malfunctioning flash can be due to improper opening of the popup flash head. Many a times if the spring used in the flash gets weak and cannot lift up the flash completely. So the flash won't trigger and you will have an under exposure or black photographs.
Too much bright flash can be also due to the circuit problem , but this is very rare and can be rectified by a service center only.
Check if any of the above guidelines can help you and inform.
you will need to change the projection mode in order to flip the image:
Turn on the projector and display an image
hold down the A/V Mute button on the remote control for 5 seconds (whilst it is pointing at projector). Image will disappear then reappear flipped.
To change back, repeat this process
Change the Input on the TV. Like from HDMI 1 to HDMI 2 for example. Or to component video. Trace the wire from your cable /satellite receiver and see where it's plugged into the TV then select that input.
The burner assemblies on all old oil lamps unscrew from the tank assembly and can be lifted out. The OIL is usually old kerosene, or diesel fuel. The burner assembly is not usually designed to be taken apart but the wick can be replaced if it's no longer long enough to reach the bottom of the tank, and their available all over the internet.
If the burner assembly seems to be seized to the tank you might want to put some GUNK on the seam and let it soak in overnight.
There is nothing particularly hazardous about the old oil but it is messy and you probably will want to remove all of it from the lamp and if you intend to use it, replace it with kerosene or lamp oil that can be bought at many hardware stores.
I think you want something that has nothing to do with digit cameras. Perhaps you are better served in the correct category?
I can tell you lots of things about digital cameras and their lenses, but here I must pass.
First of all, tele-multipliers or tele-converters do not have the greatest optics in the world, and are usually fine for close up images but not much else. Secondly, they do restrict the amount of light coming into the camera which could interfere with the internal metering. Third, you have additional lens surfaces to get dirty. To fix the problem, start with the easy one, and clean all lens surfaces meticulously with a soft lint free cloth. If that doesn't fix it, try shooting non-moving objects in brightly lit areas. If you are still getting blurry pictures, try using the tele-converter on a close-up image within the focal length of the lens combination. If that doesn't work, give the teleconverter to someone you don't like and go buy a good quality 50-135mm zoom lens. Vivitar, Sigma, or other similar lenses are good quality and are very reasonably priced.
If I read this right, your lens is a 28 to 200mm zoom lens with aperture of f:3.5 - f:5.6. What this means is that at 28mm it has a maximum aperture of f:3.5. When you zoom out to 200mm, the maximum aperture is now f:5.6. This is perfectly normal for a zoom lens of this type.
Typical situation in Shutter preferred mode. I have the shutter set at 1/125 of a second and the f:stop is f:3.5. When I zoom out to 200mm, the shutter speed is still 1/125 of a second, but the f:stop is now f:5.6 and I have decreased exposure (darkened the picture) by almost 2 full f: stops.
Realizing this, I think that "turning off the camera" really isn't a fix. The problem is realizing that the aperture will change as the focal length of the lens changes (as you ZOOM in or out on your subject). Try the aperture preferred mode and you should note that the shutter speed will change as you zoom in and out.
Most important, pay attention to shutter and f:stop info in your viewfinder. FYI : Zoom lenses that hold aperture at all ranges cost several thousand dollars, and canon makes them - they weigh a ton.