Question about Food Mixers
I removed the power cord to replace it, didn't get back to it for a year. I need the wiring diagram or how they wired it.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Pry the beater release button out with a screwdriver. There are two screws underneath it and one under the motor housing between the the beater holes. This will allow you to remove the chrome front cover, but not the motor and drive assembly. Getting to the part that contains the gears requires complete disassembly of the mixer. It is not designed for service, and requires patience and a variety of tools to disassemble.
It has a metal worm gear and plastic drive gears. If the beaters are out of alignment, then one or both of the plastic gears are stripped and the mixer is junk. Repair plus shipping costs equals the price of a new mixer. This is the weak point of these mixers and a fundamental flaw in an otherwise robust and sturdy design. It is definitly not the same mixer *********** bought 30 years ago.
Posted on Dec 16, 2008
The speed control on the back is simply a variable resistance potentiometer, the same thing that controls the volume on older amplifiers. The output current to the motor is supplied by the printed circuit board in the bottom of the unit. This allows gradual increases in speed to avoid over-torquing the motor on speedup. Even the poshy-posh-posh mixers do this.
At least it still works. The most common problem is the cheap plastic drive gears that strip out with a mild cookie dough, this jams the beaters together and requires burial-at-dumpster.
Posted on Dec 16, 2008
That picture looks like you are using the Heritage model, which is the one I just fixed for myself.
I had to remove two parts in order to get access to the piece that was causing the problem:
1) The "torpedo" shaped knob that sticks out from the mixer speed dial;
2) The speed dial itself
Both of these pieces clip-in, and can be removed with a screwdriver by pressing in on one of the hooks that hold them in place.
After these two pieces are removed look for a small washer right below the motor (it is sitting on top of the upper portion of a screw) -- in my case this washer had come loose; I tightened it with a 1/4 size wrench (you can also tighten it by hand to release the tilt, it will probably become loose in the future if you don't tighten it further, but if you don't have the necessary tools this will at least allow you to get your tilt unlocked).
On another note, after tightening this washer I also noticed that the tilt release had become easier to use -- previously I found that I had to press the tilt release button very hard to get the tilt to unlock.
I hope this helps!
Posted on May 06, 2009
Part 1. Oiling the model 12:
Anyone can do this part.
On the top of the motor are four places where oil should be applied.
Starting from the speed finder dial and working forward-
There is a small hole on the top of the motor, just in front of the speed dial. Using a wooden skewer or a match, clean the hole out, and apply two drops of good quality sewing machine oil.
On top of the motor, and near and behind the juicer attaching cone is another hole, sort of key-hole shaped. Clean it out and put in one drop of oil only.
Three drops of oil go into the juicer cone. Let them run down the side of the hole.
Next to the juicer cone is another round hole. You may need to turn the handle as in removing the beaters to uncover it. Clean this hole too, and apply another three drops of oil.
Do not apply more oil than specified. It will get into the works where it shouldn't.
The following proceedures assume some mechanical ability. Read first to assess whether you are competent before starting.
After all these years, the gears in the front of the motor housing probably need fresh grease. This is a fibre based food grade grease that can be obtained from most bearing sellers. (I used a non-food grade grease, but I have to watch that the motor doesn't get too hot, and the grease run down the beaters, which can happen in extreme conditions.)
Prepare to get greasy during this proceedure. Latex gloves are an asset for doing this job.
Remove the cover plate in the centre of the front, and then the central screw from the front and pull away the front housing cover and handle. Don't loose the coil spring inside. It goes over the screw you just undid.
Unclip the return spring on the beater ejector, and remove ejector and spring together, slide the ejector down and off the beater spindles, then up and out of the guides..
There are four screws that retain the gear cover. The lower right hand one also retains a wire. Remove the screws, and gently bend the wire so the cover can be removed. There is a gasket underneath. Take care not to break it, it's brittle.
Once the cover is away, the gears and worm shaft are visible. Using a pop stick or old screw driver, remove the grease around the under side of each gear. A square headed set-screw retains each gear. When you find each screw, remove it completely. Turning the worm shaft will make the gears rotate.
Once both screws are out, pull the beater drive shafts downwards and out of the housing, and lift out the gears.
Using pop sticks, paper towels etc, but NOT solvents, clean out the gear space. Remove all the grease possible. A toothbrush is good for cleaning the worm thread. Use someone elses.
Wash the gears and shafts in petrol, kerosene or similar and dry thoroughly.
Reassembly is the above in reverse order, first filling the gear housing with fresh grease.
Grease each drive shaft lightly before refitting. Note the holes for the set screws in the shafts.
The nylon gear goes on the left, brass under the juicer cone.
Fit the nylon gear first, working the shaft upwards until the locating hole in the shaft can be seen through the screw hole in the gear. Fit and tighten the set screw.
Align the brass gear so both screws face forwards at the same time when engaged with the motor worm, to prevent the beaters clashing. You may have to put the brass gear in and out a few times to get the right teeth engaged with the worm shaft. Then slide the shaft in, once again observing the alignment of holes to ensure the set screw locks the gear securely.
Put everything else back in reverse order. Apply a smear of grease for the beater ejector where it slides, and don't forget to put the wire back under it's screw.
Part 2, speed control.
The jerky operation at low speed is probably due to dirty points in the governer. Addressing this involves disassembling the rear end of the motor.
DON'T pull the motor armature out of the housing without first removing the brushes during this proceedure. There's no need to remove the armature, but if you're curious....
Remove the chrome cap from the centre of the speed finder dial. Remove the lock nut from the thrust control screw under the cap. Remove the dial, catching the washer that goes under the nut.
There is a resistor, usually green, and a capacitor, a small aluminium cannister under the dial. Gently pry the retaining legs away from one end of each and remove them. Note which one goes where so you can put them back correctly. Marking with a felt pen is a good idea.
Now are visible two slotted screws. Remove these screws and pull the governer housing back and away from the motor. Note the pin with a plastic head, and remember to put it back when reassembling the same way around.
Locate and clean the points with a slip of soft wood and metal polish. Clean away the polish thoroughly. Do not use emery paper, it will make the points arc, and speed control will be worse than now.
Put everything back the way it came off.
To reset the governer, leave the locknut on the thrust controling screw loose. Set the speed control to position 1. Whilst pressing the dial home with one hand, screw the thrust screw in or outwards until the motor just starts to run, and lock the screw by tightening the nut. Test the control for full range, and tweak by slightly altering the thrust screw position as required. Getting the speeds just right first go is usually a fluke.
Replace the chrome cap and you're done.
Posted on Jul 18, 2009
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