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Re: Back of Fridge icing up
If the fan is running you more than likely have a defrost problem. look at the back wall of the freezer section if it is frosted up. it's not defrosting. There three components in this system. The defrost heater, the defrost termination stat., and the defrost timer. Newer refrigerators do not have a timer per say it is build into a electronic board usually mounted on the back of the refrigerator under a metal plate. The termination stat is the cheapest part @ $ 25.00. The heater should run @ 50.00 to 70.00. The board could be as much as 200.00 or more. If the refrigerator is over 10 years old you may wish to look into getting a replacement. Appliances are designed to start failing after 10 years old. My opinion. If you unplug the refrigerator let it defrost then plug it back in. it will work properly about 3 days before it frosts back up.
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Is the door seal working correctly? If the door has become distorted slightly it might be letting in moisture via a gap in the door seal which will result in the build up in ice.
If you can see ice build up leading from the door area, this will give you a clue to where the seal may be faulty. Check that the door is squared up to the freezer with a spirit level and if required gently bend the door back into place by holding the corner with your feet and adjust from the other corner.
This is what is happening. All "frost free" refrigerators are not truly frost free. The cooling comparment elements frost up with moisture from the air. Every 6 or 8 hours or so the fridge shuts down. then . small electric heaters fitted into these cooling elements melt the frost away. The water goes down a tube into what is called a drip pan mounted underneath the fridge. If the drain tube clogs with a piece of paper, or food or algae. The water from the frost melting stays in the pan because the drain is clogged. So each time the fridge defrosts, it builds up ICE not frost and eventually it completely clogs with a block of ice. The other thing that can happen, is that the timer that controls this cycle fails and the heating elements never turn on. The the fridge then clogs with frost. The fridge will clog with frost if any of the following parts fail. The defrost thermostat which opens up the heater circuit when the coils reach around 40-50 degrees, the defrost heaters mounted in the cooling coils, or the defrost timer fails. If your fridge works normally after this, then the drain hole was clogged and you unclogged it. If it gets colder and colder again. Then the timer, defrost thermostat, or the defrost heaters have failed. Hope this helps. You are welcome to write back to me and tell me what is happening with your fridge. I hope this helps, Best Regards, Mark
Sounds like you have a defrost Prob. Take back cover off. Turn defrost timer in to defrost mode you will feel a click. timer may be located in fridge. ceiling or back wall if not there check bottom of fridge. behind kick plate or in back bottom of fridge. by compressor. See if heating element gets hot if not check for 120 volts at heater and defrost thermostat ( Terminator ) if not check defrost timer if you do have 120 volts check for 120 volts at heater terminals if no voltage or weak voltage replace terminator if you do have good voltage replace heating element. When ice builds up the fridge. starts to get warm turn off for 24hrs turn back on fridge. will run OK till ice builds back up.
If freezer is icing up, you might have a defrost problem. Frost free models have a heating element that is controlled by a timer to automatically defrost ice, defrost timer turns on defrost heating element every 12 hours to melt ice in freezer and allow good air flow. You can test defrost element with an ohm meter(located inside freezer coils-will have two wires going to a plug connection), if OK replace defrost timer (located in various places depending on make and model