Question about BenQ FP222W LCD Monitor

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How do I remove the back panel of the Ben Q fp222w in order to replace the power supply board. I have tried removing all the screws including the ones under the rubber grommets at the top of the rear of the screen but it will not separate, what is the procedure?

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First unplug. The the remove screw from base plate then remove the two screws from under base plate the remove the four coner screws, after that you need to separate the housing.
A small flate head or something to pry open plaste then remove the screws from the frame unplug display separate then now you are at the boards.

Posted on Apr 25, 2012

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Have you been to YOUTUBE for "lcd monitor disassembly" and "lcd monitor repair" video clips??? Absolutly do not use sharp cutting instruments to part the rear cover from front BEZEL of unit. One careless slip and it's a trip to local hospital "ER" to stop the gushing wound you have inflected on your body. Good luck with repair to your unit. 12fixlouie

Posted on Sep 17, 2010

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How do you remove and replace Eurocave performance control board Eurocave 283


The control panel is held up by two hidden screws (that are not removed) that slide into slots of the top front of the panel and 2 removable Philips screws at the back of the control panel which hold up both the controls and circulation fan.

Unplug the unit. Open the door, remove both chrome screws in the ceiling behind the control panel and put them where you can reach them.
While holding up the fan assembly, slide the control panel forward. It may bind a bit so work it forward carefully to prevent scratching the black finish.
As you pull it forward the fan will want to drop down, so once the control panel has moved forward enough to clear the fan panel (about 1/2") you can insert the screws and finger tighten them to hold up the fan as you remove the panel.

Label the wires before unplugging as they are not all individually keyed and look very similar. Note any unused connectors. You need to unplug the large black power connector, black wire for fan connector, and a white temperature sensor wire(s) before removing the panel. You can leave connected the white wires for lights, display and local humidistat that are part of the panel until the panel is removed.

The power supply board and display board are mounted to the control panel assembly with screws and connected by a ribbon cable and wires. Label any remaining connectors and wires before removing the circuit cards. I think the ribbon cable is only removable on the display board and permanently attached to the power supply board. There are replacement parts available from WineEnthusiast.com as well as 3rd party Eurocave circuit card repair services you can find on the internet.

When reassembling follow the opposite order and note the fan panel mounts ABOVE the control panel on the ceiling of the unit. Gently slide the control panel into backwards into place lining up the slots onto the fixed 2 screws while holding up the fan panel and then install the 2 screws behind it to hold both in place.

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Replacing colorwheel on an InFocus X1A, X2, X3, and SP4805


to replace the colorwheel:

remove the 4 brass and 4 silver screws from the bottom and the 2 silver screws from the back. through the top vent on the back panel and using a flat head screwdriver, unclip the 3 clips holding the back panel on. once removed, unplug the 2 wire harnesses. remove the top and front panel. now unplug the large wire harness and remove all the brass screws on the 2 power supply boards (also the screw for the ground wire). there is a black clip in the middle of the larger power board. remove the boards. now remove the brass screws holding the metal plate on. once removed, unplug the flat ribbon cable (for the colorwheel). now facing the front end, remove the lamp and the 4 screws holding the lamp housing (with fans) on to the bottom case. remove the tiny black screw on the small circuit board and remove the board. now you can get to the colorwheel. there are 2 small black screws holding the bracket. pull the ribbon cable through from under the fan. replace with new colorwheel and reverse the instructions. the only difference, remove the front panel from the top by undoing the clips. good luck!

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1 Answer

Power supply


Unplug the TV from power source.
the power supply is located on the left side of the chassis as you look at unit from the rear. You must slide the chassis back. there are approximately 3 screws holding that chassis in.remove those to pull chassis back. four screws hold the power supply board in place, one in each corner. to remove the power supply PCB be sure to disconnect all cables from it.

Part# for the WD82740 power bd is 934C4090D2

would have to be ordered from Mitsubishi

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1 Answer

Red light blinking and no response akai LCT2715


The led is blinking due to fault in power supply board.
On the power supply board there are some capacitors and ICs .if any of those gets short or faulty the power supply board will create problems and the red light will start blinking. The components on the board needs to be checked with the help of multimeter and continuity tester.And the faulty components needs to be replaced with the help of soldering iron. the procedure to check the power supply board is as follows:---- 1) You are going to need a Phillips ( X ) Screwdriver for this procedure. The first thing you will want to do is find a suitable location to disassemble the TV. Try to find somewhere with plenty of space to work and preferably somewhere you will not have any hazards such as static (like carpet)
Lay the TV Flat on its face (picture side down) and remove the 4 screws from the back of the TV holding the base on.
Next you will want to process to remove the screws around the back cover. There are 12 screws you will need to remove (refer to picture for locations).
Carefully remove the back panel of the TV. It may snag on the coaxial connector so be careful.
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2) Once you have the back off of the TV you can see the Main board and power supply covers.You will now need to remove the left (right side from the back) speaker cover to allow access to two of the screws holding the Power Supply Cover in place. This is easy and pretty straight forward and has 8 screws around the perimeter.
Once you have the speaker cover off you should be able to access the screws on the side and you will also want to remove the other screws from around the sides of the cover. Some TV's I have worked on only had 6 where others had 7 or 8. Just make sure to remove all of the screws before trying to remove the cover.
Once you have the cover removed you will see the Power supply. Remove the wiring harnesses from the power supply board. You will have 4 cables at the top of the power supply and one main power input at the bottom. The main power input may have some glue securing it in place. Simply cut this with a knife or pull it loose.
Once you have the cables off of the power supply you can remove it from the TV via the screws on the 4 corners. Be careful not to damage anything as you remove these screws. You now have the Power Supply removed from the TV.
you can now get the power supply repaired from any local tv repair technician.or get new replacement power supply from the service center.or from online stores like : www.partstore.com or from www.shopjimmy.com
Thanks. you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

May 13, 2010 | Akai LCT2715 27 in. LCD Television

1 Answer

Accidently knocked projector and it has got lines accross the picture about every inch or so when viewed on 6 foot screen lines go vertical top to bottom


first reset the settings to factory default. if the lines are still there, you'll have to reset the dmd chip board with the main board. this is a little indepth. if you are not comfortable taking things apart (almost completely) and successfully putting them back together, send it in for repair to an infocus repair center. if you can do it, here you go:

remove the 4 brass and 4 silver screws from the bottom and the 2 silver screws from the back. through the top vent on the back panel and using a flat head screwdriver, unclip the 3 clips holding the back panel on. once removed, unplug the 2 wire harnesses. remove the top and front panel. now unplug the large wire harness and remove all the brass screws on the 2 power supply boards (also the screw for the ground wire). there is a black clip in the middle of the larger power board. remove the boards. now remove the brass screws holding the metal plate on. unplug all of the plugs from the main board. remove the screws from the board. now, facing the rear of the machine, the main board is attached to the dmd chip board behind the lens assembly under the heat sink. do not lift the board up from the back, pull it back towards the rear of the projector away from the dmd board. now reinsert it all the way and replace everything you removed in reverse order. good luck!

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2 Answers

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If there is no LED burning to indicate there is power than the power supply is faulty.Repair is not verry easy to do with these complicated power supply's.

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1 Answer

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remove the top, front and rear panels (4 copper screws and 4 silver screws on bottom, 2 silver on back). there are 2 fuses for the power supply. the left board (looking from the rear) is the ac filter board, and has a fuse near the plug. the right board is the power supply/ballast board, and has one fuse near the back center, but it is soldered in. if the fuses are bad, replace only with the same size fuse. to replace the power supply (either board), just remove the screws and plugs and replace with part numbers 510-1908-00 (ac filter) and 520-0143-00 (power supply).

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1 Answer

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I have repaired several Viewsonic VX800 monitors. The symptoms include a power light that flickers or flashed on and off or a screen that flashes on briefly or stays off. The problem is bad electrolytic capacitors on the power supply board. These bad capacitors do not look bad and do not swell but they do develop a high ESR (Equivalent Series Resistance). You need a ESR meter to check them. But if you have these problems, you should assume the capacitors are bad and just go ahead and replace them.
First you must open the monitor and gain access to the power supply board.
1. Remove the stand: It is held with 6 screws on the back. Also on the back are 2 black screws that must also be removed.
2. Remove the button bar from the front, bottom: It is pried off. This will expose the 2 screws holding the front plastic bezel.
3. Remove the silver plastic bezel from the front: First remove the 2 screws holding it, then you can pry the rest off. This will expose the 2 screws holding the screen to the plastic back.
4. Remove the screen and electronics from the plastic back: Remove the 2 screws holding it. The 2 speakers are glued to the plastic case. Cut the glue with a knife. The screen and electronics and speakers should lift out of the plastic back.
5. Remove the metal cover to expose the electronics: There are 2 screws holding the VGA connector and 2 screws holding the DMI connector. There are 9 screws holding the cover. These must all be removed. There is a black plastic sheet glued to the lower edge of the cover. It must be lifted. The cover should now come off.
6. Replace the bad capacitors. The power supply and signal processor are on the same board. It is marked VG800-2. The bad capacitors are surfaced mounted 100UF 25V. The bad capacitors are CM16, CM17, CM2 and CM165. The two most critical are CM16 and CM17, but they all read high ESR, so I just replace them all as long as I have them exposed.
Reassemble in reverse order.


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4 Answers

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