Question about Bosch Nexxt Premium WFMC6400UC Front Load Washer
Machine will not drain. The pump is free and the motor tests good. Hose is not blocked. When testing without clothes in the washer it won't fill any more either , but I thought that might be because there are no clothes (it still has water that didn't drain out) so it might not be related to the draining problem.
Had the same issue. Just pulled the machine apart and found the exhaust/checkvalve was clogged with wash sludge. Incidentally, we have pets. Looking for the part as I type. Found something called a "ball sump". Does anyone know if this the same part?
Posted on Jun 03, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Tips for a great answer:
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Now remove the drain hose clamps and remove the drain
pump/valve, clean the drain pump/valve, use back flushing to clear off all
dirt. Now test using power to see if this works and can be simulated. When
refitting, the hose must be tightened properly. If the pump/valve does not work
even with power then it must be replaced.
If there is intermittent power to the drain valve/pump then the program
controller unit is a suspect.
Cleaning a pump:
Finally the washer must be placed with a tilt- use a
spirit level- so that all water will drain to the outlet port and thereby there
is no residual water remaining.
Replacing the pump on a Bosch machine, please check
this link for tips:
Jan 17, 2013 | Bosch Nexxt Premium WFMC6400UC Front Load...
You need to check the drain pump externally to see if the pumping is good Also remove the drain hose clamps and remove the drain hose flushing to clear off all dirt. Now test using power to see if this works and can be simulated. When refitting, the hose must be tightened properly. If the pump/valve does not work even with power then it must be replaced. If there is intermittent power to the drain valve/pump then the program controller unit is a suspect.
Cleaning a pump: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zKjKi50YBpI&NR=1&feature=fvwp
Finally the washer must be placed with a tilt- use a spirit level- so that all water will drain to the outlet port and thereby there is no residual water remaining.
Replacing the pump on a Bosch machine, please check this link for tips:
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"Ld" (Washer is taking too long to drain
water from the wash tub)
Check the following:
Is the drain hose kinked or clogged?
Is the drain hose installed properly? See
"Connect the Drain Hose," page 2-5. Press
PAUSE/CANCEL to clear display
Is the drain hose clogged, or the end of
the drain hose more than 96? (244 cm)
above the floor?
See "Drain System," page 2-3.
6. To remove the drain pump: (there are 2 pumps... the drain pump is on the left)
a) Loosen the clamps and pull the inlet
and outlet drain hoses off the pump.
Note that there is a tab on the outlet
connector that fits into a slot in the
b) Remove the three 5/16? hex-head
screws from the drain pump and remove
the pump from the tub.
Check the pump inlet and the tub outlet for obstructions.
Pump electrical winding resistance test:
-Disconnect the wire connector from the
drain pump terminals.
- Set the ohmmeter to the R x 1 scale.
- Touch the ohmmeter test leads to each
of the drain pump terminals. The meter
should indicate between 10.5 and 14 ?.
----Due to the design of the machine the 2 wires going to the drain pump have be notorous for backing out of the plastic connector. Check the connector of the pump for loose terminal connections. --
From the Ld troubleshooting steps / procedure:
Ld flashes when the water level does not change after the drain pump is on.
• Is the drain hose or the drain pump clogged?
• Is the drain hose height greater than 96? ?
• Is the pressure hose connection from the tub to the machine/motor control pinched or plugged?
• Is the pump running? If not, see TEST #7.
TEST #7 Drain/Recirculation
Perform the following checks if washer fails to drain or recirculate.
1. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test
Mode, and perform the Manual: Pumps
2. Remove the console to access the machine/
motor control assembly. See Accessing
& Removing the Electronic Assemblies.
3. Visually check that the P4 connector is
inserted all the way into the machine/motor
If visual check passes, go to step 4.
If visual check fails, reconnect P4 and
repeat step 1.
4. Remove connector P4 from the machine/ motor control and check resistance values of pump motor windings. Resistance values should match those shown in wiring diagram, page 7-1.
If resistance values are good, go to step 7.
If winding measurements are much higher (tens of ohms to infinity) than shown in wiring diagram, a problem
exists in the motor winding or in the connection between the machine/motor
control and the motor. Go to step 5.
5. Tilt machine forward to access the bottom
of the machine and the pumps. See
Figure 1, page 6-13.
6. Check the resistance at the pump motor. Remove the connector at the motor and
take measurements across pump terminals. Measurements should be as shown in the wiring diagram.
If winding measurements are much higher (tens of ohms to infinity) than shown in wiring diagram, replace the
If the resistance at the pump motor is correct, there is an open circuit in the wiring between the motor and the machine/
motor control. Repair or replace the lower wiring harness.
If the pump motor windings and machine/ motor control check OK, repair or replace the pump. Be sure to check
the pump and tub sump for foreign objects before replacing pump.
7. See Activation of Manual Diagnostic Test Mode, and perform the Manual: Pumps test.
8. If the Manual: Pumps test failed, then the machine/motor control has failed:
Unplug the washer or disconnect power.Replace the machine/motor control assembly.
Perform the Manual: Pump test.
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