Air conditioned motor WN2-25D1-A06A not runs - Heating & Cooling

Indoor unit indicator
RUN lamp = 6 time flash
TIMER lamp = Comes on
Outdoor unit indicator (LED5) = Stays off
Description of trouble = Indoor fan motor error (2)
Cause = Defective fan motor, Connector poor connection
Conditions of flashing = When air conditioner is operating and indoor fan motor is turned ON, indoor fan motor speed of 400 rpm or under continued for more than 30 seconds. (Air conditioner stops.)

Capacitor Failure Symptoms are sometime harder to identify without the right tools and expertise. Capacitors can be found in several different sizes and shapes. There may be one or multiple capacitors included in your ac with regards to the design. While the most popular capacitors are the types found on circuit boards, the ones most associated with air conditioning will be the bigger capacitors that assist start and run your motors. There are several motors present in an conditioner and heater systems:

1. Compressor Motor Run Capacitor: Here is the most popular capacitor that fails. Most of the time these are duel capacitors, which means that there are 2 capacitors built into one. A duel capacitor will have three terminals on the top where a single capacitor will simply have two terminals on top.
2. Outside Fan Motor Run Capacitor: That is the smaller capacitor found with or part of the Compressor Motor Capacitor. It helps start and run the outside fan that blows air through the outside coils.
3. Indoor Blower Motor Run Capacitor: Similar to the outdoor fan motor capacitor, it is a small, single (two terminals) capacitor that will help start and run the indoor blower motor.
4. Start Capacitor: Some models include an auxiliary start capacitor that helps jump start the motors. Most are found on the compressor. These are less common.

You may need to get that checked out.
Air Conditioning

Try going to this site as they have a lot of ideas: http://www.wikihow.com/Diagnose-a-Non-Working-Air-Conditioning-in-a-Car Also there are some videos on YouTube you may want to see: honda crv ac air conditioner blower does not run


I hope that helps you out!

The first thing to do is see if the indoor (evaporator-air handler) fan and compressor are both running at the same time, then turn the unit off and let all the ice melt.
If the compressor is running and the evaporator fan isn't, you've already found the main cause of your air conditioning freezing problem.
The indoor coil will freeze up if the compressor runs without the evaporator fan running.
Check to see if ice has built up enough to stop the fan.
If it has, (and it's possible with wall mounted ductless mini split units and some window units), the fan may run normally once the ice melts, and the cause of your air conditioning freezing problem could be something else.
If you are the equipment owner trying to take care of this air conditioning freezing problem yourself, and you get to the point that you have to call in a technician, it could save him time, (which saves you money) if you have already verified whether the evaporator fan was or wasn't running with the compressor, and if ice had built up enough to stop the fan.
Once the ice has melted, check the fan or blower blades, and see if they're clean and not obstructed by something like a plastic bag, other debris, or mould growth.
Remove any obstructions, and if necessary, remove the blower and clean it.
Before tearing into the rest of the unit, check the thermostat and make sure it's working right.
Do the cool contacts open when the t-stat is turned up to a higher temp than the room temp?
If not, the thermostat has failed, and never turns the unit off, which can definitely cause an air conditioning freezing problem.
Do the fan contacts open and close when the thermostat setting is turned higher and lower than the room temperature?
If the fan contacts never close but the cool contacts do, the thermostat has failed and caused your air conditioning freezing problem.
If the fan contacts close, but the fan doesn't run, check the fan relay in the air handler.
If the fan relay is not getting control voltage, the circuit is open between the thermostat and the fan relay.
Look for a loose connection, wrong connection, dis-connection, or broken wire.
If it gets control voltage but doesn't energize, it has failed, and must be replaced.
If it energizes but the fan doesn't run, check for line voltage on the load side of the relay.
If there is line voltage on the load side of the relay and the fan doesn't run, you'll have to troubleshoot the load side circuit and the fan motor as detailed further on.
If the thermostat checks out ok, set the thermostat to "fan on" and make sure the blower runs in the correct direction and at the proper RPM, that it is installed in the housing correctly, and is the right size.
If the blower is installed backwards or is running in reverse, the coil can freeze up. (Although I have seen several units that didn't freeze up with reversed blowers.)
You will need to turn the blower around, reverse the rotation of the motor if it is a reversible rotation motor, or install a motor with the correct rotation.
A blower that runs too slow can cause an air conditioning freezing problem.
You'll need to install a motor that runs at the correct speed.
A blower that is too small, or that is installed in the housing incorrectly, can cause an air conditioning freezing problem.
You will need to install the correct size blower, and be sure it is installed correctly in the housing.
This means centered, with volutes installed, and the curve of the vanes matching the outlet of the housing.
If the blower motor is the wrong size, if the bearings are failing, or if it has an open start winding or a failed run capacitor, it could be overheating and stopping intermittently.
A motor that is overheating and stopping intermittently can cause an air conditioning freezing problem.
To check out the evaporator fan motor:
Check the resistance readings of the motor windings.
If you get a readable resistance between all three windings, the motor windings should be ok.
Turn the shaft. If it turns free and easy, the bearings should be ok.
If the shaft is hard to turn, lube the bearings with 20 SAE electric motor oil if there are lube ports.
If that frees the shaft, it should run ok for a while, but the bearings or bushings may be deteriorated to the point that they'll sieze again soon.
If the shaft doesn't free up, replace the motor.
If the shaft turns freely, check the capacitor.
The best way to check the capacitor is to replace it with a new one of the correct rating.
If the motor runs, close the air handler panels, and take an amp draw on the motor.
If it's normal it should run OK, and if the motor was the problem, your air conditioning freezing problem should stop.
Ok, if you've verified that the controls and fan are good, take a break for a diet soda, and then we'll see if the evaporator coil or ducting are the cause of your air conditioning freezing problem.
Take a look at the evaporator coil.
Is it clean? Can you see your flashlight shining through from the other side?
If the coil's dirty, you'll have to do some air conditioning coil cleaning.
If your air conditioner is a window type, our page about how to clean window air conditioners has some pointers you might find useful.
A dirty evaporator coil is a common cause of air conditioning freezing,
And it's one of the problems that can be prevented with regularly scheduled air conditioning maintenance.
If the coil is clean, check the ducting to make sure nothing is blocking air flow.
Blocked ducting will stop air flow through the evaporator coil, and this will cause the coil to freeze up.
If your coil is clean and the ducting is clear, let's run the unit and check the operating pressures and temperatures.
If your discharge and suction pressures are low, with a low compressor amp draw, low subcooling, high superheat, and low temperature splits accross your evaporator and condenser coils, you probably have a leak.
Shut the unit down, find the leak and repair it.
Once the leak is found and/or repaired and you're ready to run the unit, our Charging Air Conditioning Systems page offers some tips that you might find helpful.
If you are totally unable to locate the leak with a bubble solution or electronic detector, you'll have to charge in refrigerant to correct pressures, temperatures, and superheat and subcooling values, and it would be a good idea to add some air conditioning leak detector dye so the leak can be found later on.
You have to use some common sense about leaks.
If the leak is so small that you can't find oil or any other sign; unless the customer agrees to pay you for all the time you spend, it's more cost effective to charge in the small amount of refrigerant it will take to get the unit running correctly, finish the service call, and be on your way.
I can't imagine that there's a service technician out there who hasn't run into the same problem many times.
Use some common sense, be up front with your customer, and if you've done your best not only to find the leak, but to get the unit running right and save your customer unnecessary expense, consider it a job well done.
If your suction pressure is low enough to cause the evaporator to freeze up, but you have high subooling and high superheat, either your metering device is restricted or the wrong size, your drier is restricted, or your liquid line is restricted.
Evaluate all of the system's operating characteristics to isolate the restriction.

Copied from the following web site:
http://www.air-conditioning-and-refrigeration-guide.com/air-conditioning-freezing.html

Problem #1:Outdoor condensing fan motor has stopped running. This problem could be caused by a bad motor run capacitor. If your motor capacitor is not the problem, then more than likely you need a new motor. Is the fan blade tight, stiff or hard to turn? If the fan blade is hard to turn then you probably need a new motor. Problem #2: Air conditioner compressor will not start. When power is applied to the air conditioning outdoor unit the fan starts, but you hear a sound like the compressor is trying to start, "UGGG"..., for about 5 to 10 seconds and then all you hear is the outdoor condenser fan run. The compressor is locked and will not start. What is happening is the compressor is trying to start, but because the compressor motor is locked it tries to start for a few seconds and then because of the high amperage being drawn goes off on internal overload. The internal overload protects the compressor windings from overheating and burning up. I see this many times during the start of the air conditioning season. Some compressors just have a hard time starting after sitting all winter long. Some compressors are locked up so bad that I can not start them and must tell my customer that they need a new compressor . Many times I can get the compressor started again without having to buy a new compressor or new air conditioning system by using the device known as a "Super-Boost." I keep two or three of these on the truck. They have saved many of my customers from having to buy new air conditioning compressor. Another good device is called a "5-2-1" kit.

Problem #1:Outdoor condensing fan motor has stopped running. This problem could be caused by a bad motor run capacitor. If your motor capacitor is not the problem, then more than likely you need a new motor. Is the fan blade tight, stiff or hard to turn? If the fan blade is hard to turn then you probably need a new motor. Problem #2: Air conditioner compressor will not start. When power is applied to the air conditioning outdoor unit the fan starts, but you hear a sound like the compressor is trying to start, "UGGG"..., for about 5 to 10 seconds and then all you hear is the outdoor condenser fan run. The compressor is locked and will not start. What is happening is the compressor is trying to start, but because the compressor motor is locked it tries to start for a few seconds and then because of the high amperage being drawn goes off on internal overload. The internal overload protects the compressor windings from overheating and burning up. I see this many times during the start of the air conditioning season. Some compressors just have a hard time starting after sitting all winter long. Some compressors are locked up so bad that I can not start them and must tell my customer that they need a new compressor . Many times I can get the compressor started again without having to buy a new compressor or new air conditioning system by using the device that is called, "Super-Boost." I keep two or three of these on the truck. They have saved many of my customers from having to buy new air conditioning systems

Problem #1:Outdoor condensing fan motor has stopped running. This problem could be caused by a bad motor run capacitor. If your motor capacitor is not the problem, then more than likely you need a new motor. Is the fan blade tight, stiff or hard to turn? If the fan blade is hard to turn then you probably need a new motor. Problem #2: Air conditioner compressor will not start. When power is applied to the air conditioning outdoor unit the fan starts, but you hear a sound like the compressor is trying to start, "UGGG"..., for about 5 to 10 seconds and then all you hear is the outdoor condenser fan run. The compressor is locked and will not start. What is happening is the compressor is trying to start, but because the compressor motor is locked it tries to start for a few seconds and then because of the high amperage being drawn goes off on internal overload. The internal overload protects the compressor windings from overheating and burning up. I see this many times during the start of the air conditioning season. Some compressors just have a hard time starting after sitting all winter long. Some compressors are locked up so bad that I can not start them and must tell my customer that they need a new compressor . Many times I can get the compressor started again without having to buy a new compressor or new air conditioning system by using the device that is called, "Super-Boost." I keep two or three of these on the truck. They have saved many of my customers from having to buy new air conditioning systems.

if everything is running may just be contactor,if compressor is running not fan turn it off call service tech out(Fan motor bad)if fan is running but no compressor turn it off call service

you will have to replace the blower motor

The problem is in the heater box. To be more specific, the blend door. Check blend door operation and blend door motor. Located right side under dash. Remove blend door motor, with vehicle running, move switch from panel to defog and see if blend door motor moves.