Washing machine stopped working at end of cycle. Was able to remove the front panel, and manually release the catch to get the clothes out, but there appears to be no power to the unit. Verified outlet was working.
Is there an internal fuse? Owner's manual is not very helpful .....
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Re: Dead in the water
End of cycle? After the end of cycle you have to wait for 2 minutes minimum (or hear a click), only then you have to try the door; or your door won't open & if you force it you'll damage the door mechanism (not good). End of cycle means "your wash is done".
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first use a meter and check ur water pressure switch? that is what sends the machine the message to start wash cycle? You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube. If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good. now take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ?
sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphram to not open.
If both check ok then next CHECK the motor coupler or belt if belt driven.check with a multi meter for continuity the door switch, and if there is a little movement on wash cycle in 1 direction only then check the cam dogs in agitator.
Your lid switch may be bad. These fail mechanically and electrically.To get to the lid switch first remove the front panel so that you can get the top loose it is bolted down. Use a putty knife and do downward force to release the front panel spring clips.Remove the top and you will see the lid switch quick connect. Unplug that and sit the top down on a work bench or table. Check the switch for mechanical and electrical failure. Set your meter to ohms and close the lid. You should have continuity. GE TRAINING MANUAL
sounds like the pressure switch line is plugged. remove the front panel by inserting a putty knife between the front panel and the main top an inch or so from either side to release the locking tabs. the clear tube to the left side needs to be removed and cleaned thoroughly, while the tube is removed begin filling the unit with hot water untill water comes out of the spout the tube came off of. reinstall the tube and test to make sure the water level shuts off at all levels. the largest level should stop right around the top level of tub holes.
Check your washer plug to see if the connections are
screwed. Next check your filter if you haven't for long.
the 3 screws at the bottom of the front panel under the
washer door. Your filter door will be light brown. If you find a hose
there it is to drain out excess water (water that could not be drained
by your pump) After you hv drained unscrew the cap and
remove all the junk inside. Have a large plastic bag to catch junk and
water. Refit carefully after cleaning out. If not solved, something
shd be blocking your pump, check this out.
While the machine is on press "end of cycle" for 3 seconds, then wait
for 2 minutes to try the door. Try this again if it does not open, this
is the child lock program - to lock and unlock; it is the same
Make sure that you are getting water out of the hot side. Close both faucets, and remove the hot side washer hose. Have something at the ready to catch the water. A bucket will do fine. Inspect both ends of the hose. Usually, there is a screen there to catch any sediment. Inspect the hot connection to the solenoid valve at the back of the washer. There's usually a screen there, too. If you note any specks of debris, pull the screen(s) out and clean. Reconnect the hose to the hot faucet. Pointing the open end at the bucket, open the water valve, making sure that you are getting water there.
>> If you are getting plenty of water at the faucet and through the hose, the problem is probably the solenoid valve. Replace, but unplug the washer first.
>> If the water supply is lacking, you have plumbing issues.
Electrically Isolate the machine
To access the pump the front panel needs to be removed, first the machine top needs to be opened,
at the joint between the machine front panel and top insert a flat blade 4" from each side to release the lid catches, tilt back the top to access the internal screws on the front panel and remove the front by lifting off it the bottom brackets.
Ensure the machine is empty of water, to do this lower the waste drain pipe to floor level and clooect any water in a suitable container.
Tilt the machine back 45 degrees and remove the drive belt and bolts for the pump, remove the hoses from the pump, refit in reverse order.
you have blockage in you drain plug. to solve this problem you'll have to remove the lower front panel of your machine by removing the 3 (1/4") screws on the vary bottom of the machine. once the panel is removed you'll see a 1 1/2" white PVC drainage plug. turn the inner plug to the left in till open. (WARNING ALL THE WATER IN THE DRUM WILL DRAIN THOUGH THIS PLUG) remove debris likes socks or everything that's there replace the panel and your all set.
If the pump is clogged and can't release all the water it won't go into final high spin. Remove lower cover and locate coin catch and unscrew it. Water will come out, so be ready. If it's full of stuff, this is probably the problem.
welll there are 3 screws across the bottom front of the panel (torx 15) the lower acees panel can be removed, from there you can gain access to the backside of hte lock assy and manually release it. simply run your hand up the right side, just below the lock/latch assy ther is a quarter sized/teardrop shaped pull cord. thos will release the door, for you